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Merlin

which filler smooths with water and feathers perfectly ?

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Hi, apart from Milliput, what filler :-

1. smooths with water

2. adheres exceptionally well and consequently feathers at the edges when rubbed down with no minute breakoff

3. does not come away when item washed afterwards prior to painting (as did Deluxe Materials  Perfect Plastic Putty, it doesnt smooth with water anyway)

4. Ideally in a tube for quick application as opposed to the messing around kneading/mixing Milliput requires.

 

Merlin

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Good luck finding that unicorn. 

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I have heard AK Interactive's new acrylic-based filler is quite good; it comes in a tube, can be cleaned with water and is rock hard when dry.

 

Hope this helps.

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Hi, Cheers.

 

I will try and get some.

 

I just tried Tamiya white putty but it took 8 or so hours to dry hard., as did Mr Surfacer 500.

 

Merlin

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I use Ak Interactive white putty, it works well for small gaps.

You may  remove it with water and when dry is really hard.

Cheers  

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Posted (edited)

You could give 3M Acrylic Spot Putty a go (in a green tube). Must admit I've not used it yet myself but I've heard some glowing reviews. About £15-20 quid on E-Bay, but comes in a BIG tube (about 7 or 8 times the amount that you get with most modelling fillers). They also do a tougher version, called glazing putty (red in colour).  

 

Hope this helps.

 

Chris. 

Edited by spruecutter96
Adding information.

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Hi to all,

   AK Interactive again.

Yesterday I tried to thin this filler before using.

It may be thinned with tap water to a desired consistency.

I applied it with a toothpick and  then, more thinned,  with an old round brush.

It has filled all the gaps between the fuselage and wings of a Smer P-36.

As this putty dries quickly I applied it two or three times, where needed, in one session of work.

The joints have been sanded without problems.

Kind regards,

 

Paolo

 

P.S. 

I apologize for my english   

 

 

  

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For me the answer is "none."

I tried the Vallejo, and was underwhelmed. It didn't clean up quite as easily as demonstrated on some of the videos I have watched, and it didn't seem to get hard... stayed kind of rubbery and wouldn't sand worth a hoot. I plan on experimenting more, but I will probably stay with my current putty and continue to sand and shape it as needed.

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I've been using Games Workshop Liquid Green Stuff recently and been quite impressed with it. 

John 

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Merlin.

 

Nil

 

Change the question as this one does not have an answer.

 

All fillers are good in the hands of those who know how to use them and respect

their properties and apply both within those restraints and also the preparation of

the materials to which the filler is applied. QED.

 

Laurie

 

 

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23 hours ago, LaurieS said:

Merlin.

 

Nil

 

Change the question as this one does not have an answer.

 

All fillers are good in the hands of those who know how to use them and respect

their properties and apply both within those restraints and also the preparation of

the materials to which the filler is applied. QED.

 

Laurie

 

 

Well said. 

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Posted (edited)

Just to add there is not one filler for all occasions. Choice of the one for the job in hand and you are halfish way there.

 

Large gaps for wing fuselage  needs strength and to stop cracking especially fillers which shrink dry.

 

For this I use plasticard to the thickness of the gap cut just below the top then use plastic cement the thicker one as

it will weld the whole thing together. Then use a filler on top to flush and smooth the joint.

 

For very small joints which will not move and profiles which are difficult to get to I use Vallejo filler. This can be

smoothed with a wet finger or softened with a paint brush or little sponge finger using Vallejo thinner or cleaner.

With care wet and dry to really smooth.

 

For fuselage joints I use Mr Surfacer 500paint on or use a tooth cleaner stick in layers. Just as it is going hard

I use a Morton blade to scrape it level. Apply more coats as required. Finally using wet and dry in WET mode

smooth the joint. Refill area as necessary then repeat. You will with patience get a joint invisible. Beauty of the

filler it can be smoothed out to nothing with out breaking away. It is also about the same hardness as the plastic

when cured and this makes it a good filler where filling has caused filling of panel lines. With care the panel lines

can be restored through the filler.

 

For shaping a small lost little hump spot etc I use Mr Hobby White Putty. Sticky sloppy little devil but semi cures

quickly but enabling before that point for shaping etc.

 

Those are my ways but there are lots of different ways you pick up as you go along. Nor are they my ideas just

the ones I have read watched some discarded but the above works well (ha ha for me) :yikes:

 

Laurie

 

Edited by LaurieS

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I prefer Mr. Dissolved Putty to Mr Surfacer, but I haven't tried it for building up anything sizable and suspect I'd prefer Milliput.

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