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Tony Oliver

Hataka Orange Line Lacquer paint Review

13 posts in this topic

Just thought I'd share my findings of this paint with you guys. 

 

I bought these direct a couple months back when they had a free shipping offer on. 

 

Part of a bigger project trying out/comparing day fighter schemes paint here: 

 

 

Background:

 

I have been a big fan of Mr Color since returning to the hobby a few years back when it comes to fine freehand camo work. 

Thick paint (so lasts ages) that requires alot of thinning in sturdy glass jars etc. Was quite expensive & hard to get hold of until recently. Downside is that it stinks when used with leveling thinner to do fine detail work. Also for me I have found the paint has a very narrow window of workable consistency. As in you can have it nice and thin to do camo outlines but when you come to 'colouring in' you can't go much thicker otherwise is spits and splutters and makes 'spider webs'. So it can takes ages to do a camo scheme filling in the areas with thin paint. A very tough satin finish though that can be decalled onto aswell. 

 

Along came Mr Paint more recently. A very easy to use pre thinned paint. Very dense though with great covering power. But I dont like the tall bottles, I always make a mess pouring and worried I'm going to knock them over. Also stinks alot. A few concerns on the web regards colour accuracy too. Plus still relatively expensive and not widely available yet. Another problem for me is that if you thin it a bit with say leveling thinner (when going back over tightening up edges) it can dry blotchy and shiny compared to rest of the area. This can make is hard to see what's been painted, and have doubts about the consistency of shade over an area especially if you want solid colour. 

 

Enter the new Hataka Orange line - Lacquer / Solvent based acrylics. To go up against the likes of Mr C and P perhaps. 

 

Hataka had a bit of a rough start with their very first paint, it could be gritty at times (I have had first hand experience of that) and had some bad press. However they persevered and released a new red line formula which is now awesome. So kudos to them I Say for not going under/giving up. I have had three successful builds using the new formula red line - An X-1, F5N Hellcat & F16CJ. 

 

Now this year they have increased their range - we have the blue (brush) and orange (lacquer) to add tonthe improved red line. 

 

This orange line has really impressed me. The paint went down very smooth for the MSG undersides and ocean grey topsides. It was when it came to doing the green camo it blew me away. 

All freehand with a 0.2mm needle and their own thinner. I did this green upper pattern in an hour or so which is really quick for me. 

 

These are some of the pros of this new paint (keeping in mind what I said about cons of Mr C and P above)

 

1. The paint has a much larger window of consistency - from being workable whilst super thin at low pressures and close in for outlines to being able to use it thicker for 'filling in' without massive overspray or splatters. Its really easy to keep the spray pattern tight. So painting is alot quicker. 

2. The colour is super smooth and consistent once built up not matter how thin it is was to start with - no blotchy or glossy bits. So all your touching in matches the rest of it.

3. Hardly any smell, nowhere near as bad as the above two. About the same as any other waterbased acrylic.  

4. Easy to dispense eye dropper bottles with a shaker in. No mess and no waste. 

5. Their lacquer thinner works with Mr Color too. So there is a reduced smell option too now with those. 

6. Paint is tough, quick drying and takes masking well. 

7. Actual shades of colour look good. 

8. Come in nice themed packs of associated colours

9. A few places stock them now and can work out to about £2 a bottle if you shop around. 

10. Not a single bit of tip dry or crud build up on the needle during the camo spraying session.

 

I think the only con would be there isn't enough of it available yet! New sets are scheduled soon. Looking forward to the US/USN jet grey set :) 

 

 

Well done to @HATAKA OFFICIAL for a great product. 

 

 

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How tight it that? More than good enough for 1/72. 

Painting 1/48 kits will be a breeze!

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Thanks for taking the time to read all this! 

 

Try some of this paint, you won't be disappointed 👍🏿

 

Tony

 

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That's good to know, thanks for taking the time to give us the info.

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Thanks for the review. They sound quite good. 

My only question concerns accuracy. I note that the label refers to an FS number. I presume, therefore, that the paints are matched to the FS standard of the closest match to the RAF colours, as opposed to attempting to match the RAF colours themselves. 

Some will take the view that a close match is good enough and it is helpful to know the starting point for the sake of consistency. Others may think that if the match is to the FS standard then it will never be "accurate".

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8 hours ago, davidelvy said:

 I note that the label refers to an FS number. I presume, therefore, that the paints are matched to the FS standard of the closest match to the RAF colours, as opposed to attempting to match the RAF colours themselves. 

 

 

Thats true, there is also an ANA number on it. So perhaps it's a dark green they have made that is close enough to match 3 greens than having 3 separate greens that most people won't distinguish between? 

 

In the thread where I am building this, there are 6 different green and greys so far. So the view we can take is only one can be right, or all 6 are close enough? What with scale effect, weathering etc and then the lighting the picture is taken under and the screen you are viewing it on. 

 

One of the reasons for doing the thread was to show that in the end they all look about right if they are close enough, especially when viewed in isolation. 

 

Something I have learned from this project aswell is that the relationship between the colours affects the overall outcome. As in the contrast. You can have the best dark green in the world but if the ocean grey is off a bit then the whole scheme can look wrong. 

 

Example, brand X has a both a 'dark' dark green and ocean grey which makes the contrast look ok so the scheme looks right. Whereas with brand Z the dark green is spot on but the ocean grey is too light, so there is too much contrast and the scheme looks wrong. 

 

With some of the builds I have done some brands have ocean greys that are too blue, or too light, so makes the greens look off. Another has a green that is too light etc etc. 

 

With this hataka paint review it was more about how they work which is the deal breaker for me. 

I would rather have paint that is 90% there colour wise and a dream to work with than a paint that is a 100% match but a pig to get decent results with. 

 

With this hataka paint, to me the colours look good (point 7 above), perhaps both a little light but the contrast between them works so I am happy with it. Plus its an doddle to spray. 

 

Compared to say the ak air I used on another build which has a 'light' ocean grey and a very deep dark green so that the plane looks like a caricature. Plus it was a pig to spray.

 

No prizes for guessing which paint brand I will use again when I do more spitfires...

 

Hope all this rambling makes sense!

 

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If you're happy with it then it's good enough, but that Dark Green doesn't look right to me, light or dark I can let slide, but it just looks too blue to me. Might just be my screen, of course, and in any event: your model, your way.

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

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13 hours ago, Stew Dapple said:

If you're happy with it then it's good enough, but that Dark Green doesn't look right to me, light or dark I can let slide, but it just looks too blue to me. Might just be my screen, of course, and in any event: your model, your way.

 

Cheers,

 

Stew

 

Blue? That's interesting! Isn't it strange our perception of colours?

 

Here's six shades together now - 

 

http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235019759-eduard-exotic-spitfire-sextet-extraordinary-exhibition-eessee-in-172/&page=7

 

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Posted (edited)

I've bought a few bottles to test few weeks ago. Some of your statements are debatable or a matter of personal preference, but all in all, they are very good paints with a finish not as good as Mr Color (Gunze C) or MRP - the pigmentation is clearly coarser and they don't work as well when highly diluted. They are also very difficult to chip. But they are definitely on par with Mr Hobby (Gunze H) and Tamiya.

 

Their biggest advantage is low odour, which is normally not associated with lacquers, and it could be and important argument for those who didn't want to use lacquers because of that. Prices are also very competitive (at least here where I live). 

Edited by Atlis
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1 hour ago, Atlis said:

 They are also very difficult to chip.

 

That's a bit of an unfair comment - it goes without saying as any type of lacquer paint would have the same situation - because they're alot tougher & water will not dissolve them... I would never try to use the hairspray technique to remove lacquer!

 

In terms of painting 1/72 spitfires I got just as good results with these as mr p and mr c. So to me they are just as good if that makes sense? There may be other (undiscovered to me yet) scenarios of painting where the others may have an edge...? but for what I did above they did great.

Look at the camo demarcation in the above pics. I can't do any better than that freehand with the other two... Which is what I based my comparison on. 

 

Hope this makes sense!

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Tony - it's quite fair comment honestly. The fact that lacquers chip hard is a actually a plus because you have much greater control over the chipping process. And hairspray/chipping medium method works with absolutely brilliantly with say MRP or Gunze. Yet Hataka is almost too hard to chip. And I know it, because I've tried.

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, Atlis said:

Tony - it's quite fair comment honestly. The fact that lacquers chip hard is a actually a plus because you have much greater control over the chipping process. And hairspray/chipping medium method works with absolutely brilliantly with say MRP or Gunze. Yet Hataka is almost too hard to chip. And I know it, because I've tried.

 

 

 

 

 

Ok fair enough, we learn something everyday. Will try chipping lacquer acrylics one day. 

 

But critiquing a paint for not chipping well is like slagging a car off because it doesn't float in a lake. It's not what it was designed to do. The last thing a paint maker wants is their paint to come off easily on purpose. Defeats the point of paint?

Apart from some recent 'washable' paints by the likes of ak interactive I don't think manufacturers claim to make their paint just for the purpose of chipping? (Although some do produce a chipping fluid now - jumping on the bandwagon so to speak) In fact I reckon most probably try to find ways to make their acrylics more durable and wear resistant to withstand masking tape and clumsy model makers like me!

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Hi, I am interested in trying out this paint as I am getting annoyed with acrylics (tip dry etc), but have been put off from Laquers due to not having a spray booth (just an open window!).

 

Did you use Hataka's own Orange thinners with the paints or another brand?
How is airbrush cleaning afterwards? Did you just use anything special or straight cheap cellulose thinners?

 

Cheers

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11 hours ago, m4rky said:

 

Did you use Hataka's own Orange thinners with the paints or another brand?

 

Yes mate, you can make out the bottle in the pics 👍🏿

Low odour stuff very good and works with mr color too. 

And yeah used some cellulose thinners afterwards to clean.

(My spray booth is in the garage)

 

Tony

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21 hours ago, Tony Oliver said:

 

Yes mate, you can make out the bottle in the pics 👍🏿

 

Doh... Cheers for the info.

I think I might give them a try as they seem to be producing some interesting sets. The Modern US and Modern British Tank/AFV sets looks good

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