Paul @ Parkes682Decals Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 Hi All Here's something im working on as a Demostration Model using a 3D Printer Its a Volvo FH12 1:24th scale Truck Its completely 3D Printed and Drawn by myself the only items are the Italeri Tyres and Wheel rims that i added to speed up the build. Well,here's the photos 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richellis Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 Does it have air suspension on the back end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
injidup Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 Leaf springs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 Looks good, but don't use the Italeri motor and gearbox as prototype examples; they were completely wrong when Italeri released their kit 20 years ago and they're even more wrong now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richellis Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 If you did a chassis with axles to take italeri wheels you could sell them for use with KFS transkit cabs. I've 8 here that all need an italeri volvo chassis! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hugh Jampton Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 Not a truck person, but will be keeping an eye on this thread. Defiantly the way modelling is going, with the possibility of making a one off bespoke piece more attainable if you have the knowledge. I work on CAD (building design), generally 2D but have dabbled in 3D solid modelling but would need a lot more tuition. Regards John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul @ Parkes682Decals Posted May 10, 2017 Author Share Posted May 10, 2017 Hi All This is the way modelling is going,more hi-tech You can use it for almost anything providing you can get it on to the build platform Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brianthemodeller Posted May 10, 2017 Share Posted May 10, 2017 This looks interesting... I'll pull up a chair to watch if you don't mind? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdesignart Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Paul, any chance of a close up photo to see the surface finish and detail? Is it printed on a 'home' type printer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul @ Parkes682Decals Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 Hi All Here's some photos of the build. Ive drawn up the following,Fuel tank,2 Air Tanks,track rod ends and shaft,and both side panels and 3D Printed them Well here's the photos 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Head in the clouds. Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Very interesting, I was only thinking the other day this is the way way forward and may replace resin, I then wiki searched it, read up on it and closed the page, that is as far as I will ever get to 3D printing, there is so much ore to it than just pressing the print button. The winner of this race will be the one who can design a simple programme/interface we can all use. Nice work Paul. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broadspeed Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 i don't think it will replace resin ,, as a prototype medium it is perfect , but resin casting is so much faster , as you can cast several parts in one go , and a 3d printer can only print one thing at a time , and at least the home machines are also limited to a certain space of the print bed , none the less i would love to learn how to make models in 3d and print them , so i can make any prototype i wish for keep up the great work , love to see more :-) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richellis Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Looks good, but the steering tie rod should be behind the axle, not in front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul @ Parkes682Decals Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 Hi All Just to clear up something 3d printers can print as many parts as you wish not one at a time. Its also cheaper,no masters to make or moulds to make. The drawings are stored in memory,or usb memory sticks You only draw it once,save it, convert it to a STL file and then Slicer program's slice it up ready for 3d printer My 3d printer then can make several parts in one go ,all the same and quality. If you need to modify the part you alter the drawing then do as above. Its called "Rapid Prototyping" it only takes a few mintues to do. A modelling friend of mine takes 3-4 months of scratchbuilding to make his truck,i have taken 6 hours including drawings and printing to do mine Gentlemen and Ladies it will change the face of modelling. Paul 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silver911 Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 I would be very interested to know a few things please Paul. How much was the printer, and at what detail does it print? What are the material usage/costs for what you have done so far? What software are you using to draw the parts with, and how long did it take you to learn to use it? There have been great advancements in 3D printing over the last couple of years in the figure arena, but it is difficult to see the big players in the model kit arena changing how they work, although Meng and a couple of others have dabbled. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdesignart Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Is the print quality of your items equal to the surface finish on an injection moulded kit or a part cast in resin, or is some post print hand finishing required? It's hard to judge from the images you have posted, a close up shot wold be helpful. Currently for multiple run productions resin casting has to be cheaper than 3D printing, yes/no? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vandellyn Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 I worked for DTM in Austin in the early 90s when we were developing the SLS process (selective laser sintering) as a competitor to SLA, the original 3D printing process from 3D Systems. They eventually bought DTM. Stratasys was developing FDM, the hot glue gun process as we called it. The hype back then was extraordinary, and I am still seeing it in copious amounts today. At work now I use an Objet 30 Pro quite frequently, which is now a Stratasys product. This uses UV light to cure a photopolymer. Then there are metal printers which are stellar, and hobby printers ( mostly hot glue gun) that are less than stellar. Then there are service bureaus, which vary in quality and response. None of these processes are perfect for modeling, but can be made to work well enough. The process 1. 3D design. I have used Solidworks since 2001, and am pretty adept at it, so that's what I use. Cost is around $4k, and annual support is about $1500 which you need for upgrades. So, expensive. Alternatively, web based CAD is coming on strong, particularly Onshape, which was started by ex Solidworks management who saw the future. They charge by the month around $100, but have a free service too. If you know Solidworks you can use Onshape. 2. File formats Nearly all printers use the .STL format, and saving models in this format will work with all service bureaus too. It triangulates the surfaces and the polygons can be seen in the final surface finish, but since you will be sanding them down, they go away. I have not used other formats. 4. Fabrication Form, fit and function are still the governing parameters, to which I add finish. Each process has plusses and minuses, so here they are: SLA - good form and fit, low function, reasonable surface finish. Early material were brittle, but new ones are much stronger. SLS - good form and fit, good function, lousy surface finish. Good material selection. I was once tasked at DTM to improve surface finish, which looks like orange peel, and failed miserably, because the process is inherently lumpy due to the powder grain size. The plus side is that the powder also provides support, so no support structures are needed. Photopolymer - very good form and fit, good surface finish, but lousy function. Very good for detail. The material is capable of very thin wall - .02" - but it will sag under its own weight, and is very brittle. After a few months a part can look like one of Dali's sagging watches. Thickening the walls reduces that. Cleaning the part can be a pain. It uses a wax like support structure that has to be removed with a water jet, an extra cost. Materials are expensive too. FDM - reasonable form and fit, not good detail or surface finish, good function. Resolution is limited by the glue gun orifice. Relatively cheap materials. Hobby versions are a pain to work with - even Stratasys admits the Makerbots are amateurish, and they bought them. 5. Finishing Sanding sanding sanding, and more sanding. Then more sanding. But you can get great results. Persevere. 6. Service bureaus. We use Stratasys in Austin who can provide 24 hour turnaround. They will work on one piece or many, and have all the different processes available, even metal. Metal by the way is expensive, but can create parts that cannot be molded or machined. If you wanted to get your feet wet, a bureau is the way to begin. They have the resources and expertise, and it is not as costly as you might think these days due to strong competition keeping prices down. I'll be happy to answer any further questions, but only the bureaus can give you costs. bp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul @ Parkes682Decals Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 Hi All Here's an update and further progress on the 3D Print build. Ive corrected the track rod on the steering (thanks to rich ellis for pointing it out). The front steering is correct now,managed to drawup the front cowl,bumper and grill at the front and put the steps in as well. The supports to the rear fenders or mudguards and made the mudflaps as well. Well here's the photos 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richellis Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 Perfect, your doing an F12, not FH, that bumper is F series Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul @ Parkes682Decals Posted May 20, 2017 Author Share Posted May 20, 2017 Hi Rich According to the Volvo drawings i have it says FH12 on it ? Im just drawing up the radiator and tail lights and then can start the engine/gearbox and drive prop shaft and join up to back axle Will post some more photos later. Paul Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul @ Parkes682Decals Posted May 21, 2017 Author Share Posted May 21, 2017 Hi All Ive drawn the radiator tail lights and printed them out and attached them the chassis,here's the photos Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul @ Parkes682Decals Posted May 29, 2017 Author Share Posted May 29, 2017 Hi All Here's some more parts added to the print. The photos show the 5th wheel drawn up in Autocad 123D and the printed part. You may notice the oil/grease groves this is the sort of detail you can draw into the print. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul @ Parkes682Decals Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 Hi All Here's the latest photos of the build so far,with more to come Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul @ Parkes682Decals Posted October 11, 2017 Author Share Posted October 11, 2017 Hi All Here's the latest photos Front cab to start drawing up and engine and gearbox Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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