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3D Printed Volvo FH12 1:24th scale


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Hi All

Here's something im working on as a Demostration Model using a 3D Printer

 

Its a Volvo FH12 1:24th scale Truck

Its completely 3D Printed and Drawn by myself the only items are the Italeri Tyres and Wheel rims that i added to speed up the build.

 

Well,here's the photos

 

Volvo%20FH12%20Chassis%20124%20002_zpsxm

 

Volvo%20FH12%20Chassis%20124%20007_zps2h

 

Volvo%20FH12%20Chassis%20124%20006_zpsqj

 

 

Volvo%20FH12%20Chassis%20124%20004_zpsc7

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Looks good, but don't use the Italeri motor and gearbox as prototype examples; they were completely wrong when Italeri released their kit 20 years ago and they're even more wrong now.

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Not a truck person, but will be keeping an eye on this thread.

Defiantly the way modelling is going, with the possibility of making a one off bespoke piece more attainable if you have the knowledge.

I work on CAD (building design), generally 2D but have dabbled in 3D solid modelling but would need a lot more tuition. 

 

Regards

John

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Very interesting, I was only thinking the other day this is the way way forward and may replace resin, I then wiki searched it, read up on it and closed the page, that is as far as I will ever get to 3D printing, there is so much ore to it than just pressing the print button.

The winner of this race will be the one who can design a simple programme/interface we can all use.

Nice work Paul.

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i don't think it will replace resin ,, as a prototype medium it is perfect , but resin casting is so much faster , as you can cast several parts in one go , and a 3d printer can only print one thing at a time , and at least the home machines are also limited to a certain space of the print bed ,

 

none the less i would love to learn how to make models in 3d and print them , so i can make any prototype i wish for

 

keep up the great work , love to see more  :-)

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Hi All

Just to clear up something 3d printers can print as many parts as you wish not one at a time.

Its also cheaper,no masters to make or moulds to make.

The drawings are stored in memory,or usb memory sticks

You only draw it once,save it, convert it to a STL file and then Slicer program's slice it up ready for 3d printer

My 3d printer then can make several parts in one go ,all the same and quality.

If you need to modify the part you alter the drawing then do as above.

Its called "Rapid Prototyping" it only takes a few mintues to do.

A modelling friend of mine takes 3-4 months of scratchbuilding to make his truck,i have taken 6 hours including drawings and printing to do mine

Gentlemen and Ladies it will change the face of modelling.

 

Paul 

 

 

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I would be very interested to know a few things please Paul.

 

How much was the printer, and at what detail does it print?

What are the material usage/costs for what you have done so far?

What software are you using to draw the parts with, and how long did it take you to learn to use it?

 

There have been great advancements in 3D printing over the last couple of years in the figure arena, but it is difficult to see the big players in the model kit arena changing how they work, although Meng and a couple of others have dabbled.

 

Ron

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Is the print quality of your items equal to the surface finish on an injection moulded kit or a part cast in resin, or is some post print hand finishing required? It's hard to judge from the images you have posted, a close up shot wold be helpful.

Currently for multiple run productions resin casting has to be cheaper than 3D printing, yes/no? 

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I worked for DTM in Austin in the early 90s when we were developing the SLS process (selective laser sintering) as a competitor to SLA, the original 3D printing process from 3D Systems. They eventually bought DTM. Stratasys was developing FDM, the hot glue gun process as we called it. The hype back then was extraordinary, and I am still seeing it in copious amounts today. At work now I use an Objet 30 Pro quite frequently, which is now a Stratasys product. This uses UV light to cure a photopolymer. Then there are metal printers which are stellar, and hobby printers ( mostly hot glue gun) that are less than stellar. Then there are service bureaus, which vary in quality and response.

 

None of these processes are perfect for modeling, but can be made to work well enough.

 

The process

1. 3D design.

I have used Solidworks since 2001, and am pretty adept at it, so that's what I use. Cost is around $4k, and annual support is about $1500 which you need for upgrades. So, expensive. Alternatively, web based CAD is coming on strong, particularly Onshape, which was started by ex Solidworks management who saw the future. They charge by the month around $100, but have a free service too. If you know Solidworks you can use Onshape.

2. File formats

Nearly all printers use the .STL format, and saving models in this format will work with all service bureaus too. It triangulates the surfaces and the polygons can be seen in the final surface finish, but since you will be sanding them down, they go away. I have not used other formats.

4. Fabrication

Form, fit and function are still the governing parameters, to which I add finish. Each process has plusses and minuses, so here they are:

SLA - good form and fit, low function, reasonable surface finish. Early material were brittle, but new ones are much stronger.

SLS - good form and fit, good function, lousy surface finish. Good material selection. I was once tasked at DTM to improve surface finish, which looks like orange peel, and failed miserably, because the process is inherently lumpy due to the powder grain size. The plus side is that the powder also provides support, so no support structures are needed.

Photopolymer - very good form and fit, good surface finish, but lousy function. Very good for detail. The material is capable of very thin wall - .02" - but it will sag under its own weight, and is very brittle. After a few months a part can look like one of Dali's sagging watches. Thickening the walls reduces that. Cleaning the part can be a pain. It uses a wax like support structure that has to be removed with a water jet, an extra cost. Materials are expensive too.

FDM - reasonable form and fit, not good detail or surface finish, good function. Resolution is limited by the glue gun orifice. Relatively cheap materials. Hobby versions are a pain to work with - even Stratasys admits the Makerbots are amateurish, and they bought them.

5. Finishing

Sanding sanding sanding, and more sanding. Then more sanding. But you can get great results. Persevere.

6. Service bureaus.

We use Stratasys in Austin who can provide 24 hour turnaround. They will work on one piece or many, and have all the different processes available, even metal. Metal by the way is expensive, but can create parts that cannot be molded or machined. If you wanted to get your feet wet, a bureau is the way to begin. They have the resources and expertise, and it is not as costly as you might think these days due to strong competition keeping prices down.

 

I'll be happy to answer any further questions, but only the bureaus can give you costs.

 

bp

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Hi All

Here's an update and further progress on the 3D Print build.

 

Ive corrected the track rod on the steering (thanks to rich ellis for pointing it out).

The front steering is correct now,managed to drawup the front cowl,bumper and grill at the front and put the steps in as well.

The supports to the rear fenders or mudguards and made the mudflaps as well.

Well here's the photos

 

volvo%20fh12%20stage%202%20001_zps5ipgvbvolvo%20fh12%20stage%202%20002_zpstzgnfo

 

volvo%20fh12%20stage%202%20006_zpsvuqepr

volvo%20fh12%20stage%202%20009_zps4zrhb2

volvo%20fh12%20stage%202%20012_zpsuypoqm

volvo%20fh12%20stage%202%20005_zpsvlx4wi

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