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Here's another one I started earlier.


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4 hours ago, giemme said:

Sure, go ahead :D I'll add one more thing, if I may: whenever I have to mask and paint over an existing color layer, I always airbrush a protective Future coat first. Not too much, as I don't need it to be super-glossy, just to protect the paintwork. HTH

 

Ciao

 

You're right as usual Giorgio, I should have done as you do but I was rushing to get the green on before the weather turned against me, I will definitely do it before I paint the walkway lines, and hopefully it will also even out the slightly rough patch from the water splatter. 

 

Pull up a chair Oldone and welcome to Britmodeller. You're welcome to watch but I think the learning might be mostly about how to avoid unnecessary mistakes.

 

Cheers

 

John

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  • 2 weeks later...

19 Nov.

 Some small progress after a couple of weeks during which modelling has been pushed into the background due to a sick horse and some atrocious weather.  

I took Giorgios advice and sprayed the wings with Future before masking the walkway lines with Friskette burnished down with an "orange stick " ( ask your own personal SWMBO ), then I brush painted the lines with Xtracrylix Night Black. I removed the masking quite soon after painting so that I could attend to any paint creep before it cured completely, but the only one was into one of the gunbay lines which will be covered by a roundel anyway. 

IMG_1163IMG_1169

I need to respray the Sky Blue under the nose ( hence the film ) and do a few touch-ups under the wings where the paint has been rubbed off or dirtied, hopefully on Tuesday or Wednesday when the weather is forecast to be warmer. I will then start applying the transfers and attaching the last few parts, who knows I might even finish this by the end of the year. 

 

That's it for now, feel free to comment

  

John  :pilot:   

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Looking good, I've read through the build from the start and it's nice to see the progress you have made, I always use Xtracolor and Colourcoats paints and I always leave them for  a minimum of 3 days before masking to prevent pulling paint off, this usually does the trick. Keep up the good work.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

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14 hours ago, spitfire said:

Looking good, I've read through the build from the start and it's nice to see the progress you have made, I always use Xtracolor and Colourcoats paints and I always leave them for  a minimum of 3 days before masking to prevent pulling paint off, this usually does the trick. Keep up the good work.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

 

My bold, whilst very safe, there's no paint-driven need to wait that long with the latter Dennis :) I've done two to three colours in a day plenty times with the satins. With the matts, I've done 3 colours inside 2 hours (with most of that time used up masking).

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Nice work John, very smart lines there Sir :)

"Orange Stick"? Ah, quick search and they're those instruments of torture they use to push back your cuticles!

Must get some... for modelling of course :wicked:

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Thanks chaps you're all very kind, first prize to Ced for ' Orange Sticks ' , you get a piece of wood and some instructions so that you can make your own.

When I use enamel paint ( whichever brand ) I give it 10 minutes with a hair dryer to get past the tacky stage then leave for at least 24 before checking to see if more time is required.

If everything goes to plan I'm hoping to have the transfers on by the weekend.

 

Cheers

 

John

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  • 2 weeks later...

02 Dec

I managed to get most of the transfers on last weekend and was then struck down by " Man Flu " which left me coughing, sneezing and dribbling for four days.  When I opened the box today and resumed I found to my dismay that not only did the upper wing roundels started  to flake off despite careful handling using a piece of old silk shirt, but they had not conformed to the engraved lines of the outer gun hatches despite the copious use of Microsol. I now have to decide wether to try to remove the roundels and use the kit transfers ( I used Xtradecal ) or touch them up and try to delineate the panels with a scalpel blade, I think I'll sleep on it.

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Not very obvious from these photos, ( taken resting on my spraying box on the kitchen table with slow synch flash so not the best ) but I have also added the undercarriage legs and plan to attach the doors and the elevators tomorrow.

Thats it for now, feel free to comment

  

John  :pilot:   

 

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That's a pain but you have done the right thing by walking away and thinking about it before rushing in, I would probably pull them off with some tape and start again.

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

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You should really have a go at cutting your own masks and spray those roundels, John .... :whistle::)

 

Whatever you choose, I'm sure you'll fix them for good, but I too think it was a wise decision to take some time and think over it :thumbsup:

 

Ciao

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Thanks Dennis and Giorgio I will try to cut around the gun hatches this afternoon without flaking off any more of the roundels, and if that works I will patch them, if not I will replace them. I don't know if I'm up to painting roundels ( especially three or four coloured ones ) I only have a compass cutter and can't justify spending the money on one of those hi-tech circle cutters.

 

Cheers

 

John 

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John, since you only had trouble with the wing roundels, you could try painting only those. A compass cutter is what I used for my Spitfire build, even for the four colored ones. :whistle:

 

Seriously, the top wing roundels are relatively easy to work with: two colors and a flat surface to work on -  a test on a scrap piece or paint mule would be preferable, though.

 

Ciao

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I tried cutting around the port outer gun hatch this afternoon and the transfer just fell to pieces so I will remove them both and replace them with the kit transfers, after I have scribed the hatches a little deeper. Just to add to the merriment I also broke off one of the gear doors which I had attached earlier! :angry:

I might well try painting the overwing roundels on my next Spitfire ( MH434 ) but it will be some time before I get to that stage. I have decided to re-start my Dragon 1/32 Mustang next, having been inspired by the builds currenty in progress. It stalled last time because I couldn't get the desired stretched fabric effect on the rudder but I now have a cunning plan. :wink:  

 

Cheers

 

John

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Sounds like a plan, you won't be disappointed if you use masks instead of decals, I paint markings on all of my builds these days, I started out doing the simple two colour overwing roundels at first and progressed onto the harder ones in very timid stages, I still get nervous wondering if they will be all right when I pull off the masking tape, but I am useless with decals so it's usually heaps better. These days I use Montex, Maketar and for my last Spitfires I used Sean's Top Notch masks as I cannot guarantee getting it right cutting my own masks..

 

Cheers

 

Dennis

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09 Dec.

Upper wing roundels take two.

IMG_1189IMG_1191

These are the kit roundels which eventually gave me the result I required. I used both Microsol and Humbrol Decalfix and a tiny drop of washing up liquid to help position the transfers on the model. Initially the roundels did not conform completely then I remembered the ' hot water treatment ' as described some time ago on BM, so I put some almost boiling water in a mug, wet a pad made from a piece of old shirt and pressed down on the transfers for 30 seconds and voila! Just to make sure, I ran a new scalpel blade around the panel lines and pressed them down again. I have also applied the serial numbers and the second part of " The Virgin " on the cockpit door.

The wing and tailplane underside markings and stencils will be next but I first need to spray on some gloss varnish. I will use the kit decals again and hope for the same results.

 

That's it for now.

 

John :pilot:   

 

Edit  I'm sure that the sharp eyed amongst you will have noticed that I have lost some of the ' W ' on the port fuselage and the second bar of the Roman numeral II, something else to attend to.

Edited by Biggles87
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Thanks for the comments guys, while I'm waiting for some dry weather for spraying, I will do some work on the propeller, spinner and wheels. The spinner will be night black ( Xtracrylic ) and I will use Revell anthracite for the propeller blades to give a little contrast..

 

Cheers

 

John

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