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Revell/Matchbox Leyland Retriever questions


Mancunian airman

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I am just about to embark on the build of two of these vehicles but want to ask if anybody knows of any improvements that are essential, primarily around the cab ?

 

I also intend to build them with a GS body rather than the caravan so is there a body available commercially for the conversion. 

 

I dont mind scratch building the GS body but not even sure, because its a long wheel-base, which style was fitted. lockers in particular.

 

Any pointers would be appreciated.

Thanks

Ian

Edited by Mancunian airman
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Hi Ian

 

This kit is the only one of a Leyland Retriever. There is very little to improve on in this scale, as these trucks were kept basic - Les Freathy is probably the man to ask for detailing advice here. There are a number of old Airfix Magazine articles with examples of GS bodies (they were standardised so the ones used to modify the Aifrield Rescue Set kits would apply. I am not aware of anyone doing a kit/resin body, although Trux (now defunct) did some bodies way back when. Not sure who took over their moulds. Matador Models would be my next try along with Milicast from  Wales (I have purchased from the latter - good service). WESPE do a complete resin Retriever with GS body.

 

RAF Retrievers are most commonly seen with Coles Crane or Workshop bodies. GS was less common in the images I have come across

 

A skim through the manufacturers list from Henk of Holland is the next best option to see who makes such upgrade kits.

 

Hope this helps

Tim H

South Africa

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Tim H

 

I have several cranes already constructed, AEC, K6 and the original Amazon so it seemed the next call would be the GS.

Thought on my RAF Station diorama, a couple of GS types could have been delivering 'stores' . . .

I wonder if the resin, (metal sided stores configuration), body would fit ??

 

I shall have a look for the Workshop body. I have quite a few of the John Church plans purchased in the early 1980's

 

I believe that 'Friendship models' do some replacement wheels but I understand they are not a good fit without the change to the axles ?

 

thanks for your response

rgds

Ian

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I found these this morning, failing to realise I had them.

Cant recall how many years ago I constructed the workshop but does anybody recognise the GS body manufacturer ??

 

I have lost the working platform for the workshop and I think I shall try and part the GS to re-paint and make some improvements such as the reduction in the canvas roof covering and the inclusion of a windscreen  . . .

34431024151_ce9d6561a2_z.jpg

 

34561251985_7cb7807f40_z.jpg

 

34431025451_540f045586_z.jpg

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Hi Mancunian

 

I notice you paint most of your vehicles in an apparent dark earth / light green (or maybe slate grey?) scheme. Yet my recent reading suggests the mickey-mouse and other camo was a darker colour, namely a "tarmac" green that is almost black. Since I am not in the UK and you may well have seen preserved vehicles at local museums, please educate me as to which is more correct. I have just completed constructing (not yet decal-ling) the RAF ground support set from Airfix in Dark-earth/black as per the instructions.

 

Thanks

Tim H

South Africa

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Hi Tim

 

I hope this link helps

 

I have based my collection of vehicles around the period October/November 1943.

You must be aware that although the Air Ministry instructed changes to the colour schemes, usually vehicles were only re-painted on occasions of its service or in-activity

 

A preserved Austin K3 lorry

25385205425_0d4fe251f3_z.jpg

 

They were not all painted overnight, in fact I have a photo taken around April 44 which shows the crash tender still in brown base colour and green wrap around  ???

 

Good luck with your choice of scheme 

Ian

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That picture of the lorry is not accurate in finish, the patterning is OK the colours are off.  .  Be warned, never, ever use restored or museum exhibits as a reference.  Be warned; most restorers know little about British military camouflage and care less about whether the colours are accurate or not.  In this case, not.   First , a 'bronze green' colour was not used by the British army during WW 2. The 1939-42 type schemes was a basic colour of Khaki Green No.3 with initially Dark Green No.4 as stripes across that base colour.  In May 1940 the Dark Green was replaced by Dark Tarmac No. 4  which was very dark,  An example does exist in Canada but not yet matched to current standards  or model paints.  Late 1941 a completely new type of scheme was promulgated, which is detailed MTP.46 /part 4A.  If you google that you will see an illustration of how it was done.  The basic colour now became SCC.2 brown with SCC.1A very dark brown as the disruptive colour.  This covered the whole of any surfaces visible from above the vehicle;ie roofs cab and body, bonnet, mudguards steps etc.  In addition the dark paint was applied all around the windshield and cab windows, wheels, underbody fuel tanks and locker faces.  This was done to blend in and make to appear irregular the natural angular shadows which occcur.  In the event SCC.1a was not available then SCC.14 blue-black was to be used.  In Octaber 1943 the black became to preferred disruptive colour and SCC.1A was a second choice.   In April 1944 a new basic colour was introduced to repalce the SCC. 2 brown.  The new colour was SCC.15 Olive Drab.  Please note that this is NOT the same colour as the American shade of that name, it was the equivalent to use as repaint or repairs on British operated vehicles.  Since there were literally hundreds of thousands of vehicles in service ( by May 1945 1,250,000 on charge) it was impractical not necessary to repaint all of them.  The new colour was applied at factories on new builds and major overhauls.  At first the dark disruptive colour was applied then by late in the year this was cancelled for vehicles in the uK but not overseas.  Vehicles  still in brown colours continued in use right until the end of hostilities.

The following are as compared with the 1942 camouflage book of standard colours in my possession.

Khaki Green No.3 is not am obvious green shade.  It is a very deep olive drab colour that looks predominantly brown.  Humbrol do not have any colour even close to it. 

Dark Green No.4 is quite dark, Humbrol  117 or 195 might do OOT.

SCC.2 brown.  This is a strong gingerish red brown.  Humbrol do not have a colour like it, No.29 is far too light and yellow.

SCC.1a very dark brown.  Humbrol do not have a colour like it,  No.98 is too purple and 173 not dark enough.

SCC.14 Blue black.  Humbrol 33 is too deep a colour, mix 4 parts 33 + 1 67 to get close.

SCC.15 Olive Drab.  Humbrol do not have a colour like it.  No. 150, 155 and 159 are far too light and yellow.  it has to be mixed; the closest is No.253 + 1 part 80,

 

I produce a booklet on the subject, for more information or photographs of the above schemes then e-mail mikestarmer18 at gmail dot com  

 

Matador do have a wide range of vehicle bodies to convert 1/76 British vehicles, check their website. 

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Thanks Mike

 

Feel free to send to me at traumadoc2 AT gmail.com

It was because I have read your posts that I asked Ian the questions that I did. Not being in the UK, with ZA having its own schemes during WW2 (mainly Desert Sand and then plain dark brown, still used today, I have limited references of actual vehicles, none really of soft-skins, to work with.

 

Tim H

South Africa

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