longshanks Posted November 29, 2017 Share Posted November 29, 2017 Hi Keith I managed to find a copy of John Lambert's plan for 467. hope this helps Kev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted November 30, 2017 Author Share Posted November 30, 2017 Kev John thanks for the info thought as much will have to do a little bit of fettling to get the saddles to sit better. Cheers beefy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted December 1, 2017 Share Posted December 1, 2017 Good job Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted December 2, 2017 Author Share Posted December 2, 2017 (edited) Next bit of work to do is the railings around the bandstand any ideas as to how I should be attaching the padding to the rail Hmm got a bit of straightening up to do on the uprights beefy Edited December 2, 2017 by beefy66 spelling 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted December 2, 2017 Share Posted December 2, 2017 A little bit tidier but don't get to wrapped in it. The fixing in this location is not going to be very robust and I would expect to see the rails somewhat .awry As to fixing the padding I used the wire stripped from household flex. A single strand approx. 0.2 mm = 14mm. Can be drilled and glued or taken around the perimeter as a seam and looped into a ring for fastening. Hope this makes sense Kev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted December 2, 2017 Author Share Posted December 2, 2017 Thanks kev will give that a try I was going to go for thin strips of tape glued and wrapped over the rail Will see which looks the most convincing always got to give new ideas a go you never know looks like it is getting really busy round hear with all the MTB builds on the go how are you getting on with yours so far beefy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted December 2, 2017 Share Posted December 2, 2017 Take a mix of ideas and eventually you come up with wot works for you 59 minutes ago, beefy66 said: looks like it is getting really busy round hear with all the MTB builds on the go Love it, long overdue ..... 59 minutes ago, beefy66 said: how are you getting on with yours so far Well you know how some times you have to take a step or two back ........ Well I've taken about 27 . I wasn't happy with the frames on the side. Somehow got the spacing/positioning wrong, so Basically gutted the wardroom.Not much posting the same again Normal service may be resumed ?? Kev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnWS Posted December 2, 2017 Share Posted December 2, 2017 (edited) Here's another idea for consideration Beefy ... I used wine bottle foil to simulate the straps used to hang the splinter pads from the railing. It's easy to form the foil around the railing, plus you get a bottle of wine. Edited December 2, 2017 by JohnWS 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted December 6, 2017 Author Share Posted December 6, 2017 On 02/12/2017 at 6:24 PM, JohnWS said: I used wine bottle foil to simulate the straps used to hang the splinter pads from the railing. That is the same idea but with tape I was thinking of cheers John got the uprights a bit straighter if you look at them on a funny angle also changed the torpedo tubes to get the saddle at the rear of the tube and not the centre looking at the instructions again I was going to put the pennant numbers on the hull and realise that the rubbing strip along the length of the hull should be higher up toward the deck it may be to late to change this so might have to bite the bullet and put the numbers above the hull strip beefy 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 11 hours ago, beefy66 said: it may be to late to change this so might have to bite the bullet and put the numbers above the hull strip ...or you could repaint your upper hull colour to lower the dip...or you can get smaller numerals. I'll bet my 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelholic Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Beefy, you might have to fiddle with the Oerlikon's shield. The shield remained static and didn't move when the guns elevated. The pivot point was where the cradle joined the gun body. See here http://www.navweaps.com/Weapons/WNUS_2cm-70_mk234.php You'll have to scroll down a bit to some sketch drawings. Tom 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 1 hour ago, Courageous said: or you could repaint your upper hull colour to lower the dip...or you can get smaller numerals. I had thought of that but the numbers are the correct size ? If the white went lower then it would be more or less at the waterline not sure that would look right? 1 hour ago, Modelholic said: Beefy, you might have to fiddle with the Oerlikon's shield. The shield remained static and didn't move when the guns elevated. The pivot point was where the cradle joined the gun body. See here http://www.navweaps.com/Weapons/WNUS_2cm-70_mk234.php You'll have to scroll down a bit to some sketch drawings. Tom Thanks for that link gives me a better Idea of where the shield should attach will get that sorted beefy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnWS Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 Beefy, I ran into a similar issue with the hull numbers because I made the rubbing strip/spray rails a little too wide. I ended up lowering the painted 'dip' as much as I could without affecting the overall look, & printed the number decals (decal paper & inkjet printer) a bit smaller than spec so they would fit. Also, here's a link to a photo showing the Oerlikon mount on one of the Canadian MTB's, for reference. http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/uploads/monthly_2017_03/58c93ba6c05e9_083Oerlikon.jpg.d5da2403d297407fa3aba5e5ed8308d9.jpg John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted December 7, 2017 Author Share Posted December 7, 2017 42 minutes ago, JohnWS said: Beefy, I ran into a similar issue with the hull numbers because I made the rubbing strip/spray rails a little too wide. I ended up lowering the painted 'dip' as much as I could without affecting the overall look, & printed the number decals (decal paper & inkjet printer) a bit smaller than spec so they would fit. Also, here's a link to a photo showing the Oerlikon mount on one of the Canadian MTB's, for reference. http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/uploads/monthly_2017_03/58c93ba6c05e9_083Oerlikon.jpg.d5da2403d297407fa3aba5e5ed8308d9.jpg John Cheers John still a way to go yet did say I was taking my time with this one. beefy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted December 7, 2017 Share Posted December 7, 2017 7 hours ago, JohnWS said: Beefy, I ran into a similar issue with the hull numbers because I made the rubbing strip/spray rails a little too wide. I ended up lowering the painted 'dip' as much as I could without affecting the overall look, & printed the number decals (decal paper & inkjet printer) a bit smaller than spec so they would fit. See...see @beefy66, i do talk sense sometimes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelholic Posted December 8, 2017 Share Posted December 8, 2017 Beefy, Just looking at your comparison pics above for pennant number placement (post 84), and I'm thinking your 2pdr looks a little high compared to the drawing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnWS Posted December 9, 2017 Share Posted December 9, 2017 On 2017-12-07 at 10:52, beefy66 said: Cheers John still a way to go yet did say I was taking my time with this one. beefy My build took a year, so I can't complain. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted December 10, 2017 Share Posted December 10, 2017 Beefy - it's all looking pretty Good - keep it coming. Sorry I'm stuck in armour at the mo - feel like I'm letting the side down Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted December 11, 2017 Author Share Posted December 11, 2017 On 08/12/2017 at 6:00 PM, Modelholic said: Beefy, Just looking at your comparison pics above for pennant number placement (post 84), and I'm thinking your 2pdr looks a little high compared to the drawing. Hi Tom you might be right there is also a frame to go onto the breakwater but is not shown on the instructions Well looking at my options for the hull numbers I could remove the side strip and risk damaging some of my work Or I could put the numbers just above the strip and cheat not sure what that would look like when done Any thoughts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modelholic Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 I was comparing the top of the gun's receiver to the top of the wheelhouse. Although, studying further the model's bridge looks to be slanted backwards slightly (and the wheelhouse roof looks more rounded than the drawing) this could be creating an optical illusion (perspective thing) regarding the gun height. Re. the side stripe. I'd say try and move it. If the hulls damaged it's only a matter of slapping on some filler, smooth and a repaint (Alright. ONLY! I know, I know) Good Luck Tom 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Courageous Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 It's obviously bugging you Beefy. My worth, I'd lower the paint trough and fit the correct serials. But fortunately, you're not me, so do what's acceptable to you without you 'pulling you hair out'! Stuart 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robgizlu Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 (edited) Hi Beefy - I see what the problem is. The strake/Rubbing streak is lower than on original pics and the pics in Coastal Craft Vol 2. It's going to be a pig to remove that resin rubbing rail. I'd try to ease that white down and squeeze the numbers in. Did you see in my Corvete blog that I use that bendy Jakarflex flexible curve - they are well worth getting from an art shop for about £5-6. I make a curve onto some Tamiya masking tape and then cut out with a scalpel using the "left" piece to template an equal and opposite for the other side (if that makes sense) I'd try very gently rubbing down the "exposed" grey so as not to have to use multiple coats of white It'll work Rob Edited December 11, 2017 by robgizlu Spelling 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
longshanks Posted December 11, 2017 Share Posted December 11, 2017 The rail is definitely moulded to low. I think Rob has got it right ..... It might be worth seeing if Coastal Craft have any smaller numbers to help the situation Kev 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beefy66 Posted December 12, 2017 Author Share Posted December 12, 2017 gents, thanks again for all your input Yes it does bug me when what I,am trying to do just will not go right Removing the Streak/Strake will cause some damage no doubt so while raking my brains today the light finally came on but only very dim I hear you say I remembered getting some number and letter decals from Peter Hall of Atlantic models these are in two sizes the larger being approx 6 mm the same as the coastal craft that come with the kit the smaller are 4 mm in size So i will be taking the easy option of re-paint the hull with the bow wave lower and just a thin strip of the grey above the waterline 13 hours ago, robgizlu said: Did you see in my Corvete blog that I use that bendy Jakarflex flexible curve Rob I did see the tool in question looks very good will keep an eye out for one at the next show Until then i will use a rotating scalpel which I can cut the masking tape to shape and follow your instruction of a mirror cut for the other side On 07/12/2017 at 7:59 AM, Courageous said: ...or you could repaint your upper hull colour to lower the dip...or you can get smaller numerals. You got it right first time Stuart beefy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnWS Posted December 12, 2017 Share Posted December 12, 2017 3 hours ago, beefy66 said: ... So i will be taking the easy option of re-paint the hull with the bow wave lower and just a thin strip of the grey above the waterline .. Sounds like a good plan beefy. Just out of interest, I wonder if all the Coastal Craft kits for the later BPB MGB/MTB's have the rub/spray rail in the wrong location? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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