Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Next bit of work to do is the railings around the bandstand any ideas as to how I should be attaching the padding to the rail Hmm got a bit of straightening up to do on the uprights

 

IMG_4433.jpg

 

IMG_4434.jpg

 

beefy

Edited by beefy66
spelling
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A little bit tidier but don't get to wrapped in it. The fixing in this location is not going to be very robust and I would expect to see the rails somewhat .awry

 

As to fixing the padding I used the wire stripped from household flex. A single strand approx. 0.2 mm = 14mm. Can be drilled and glued or taken around the perimeter as a seam and looped into a ring for fastening. Hope this makes sense

 

Kev

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks kev will give that a try I was going to go for thin strips of tape glued and wrapped over the rail  :idea:

 

Will see which looks the most convincing always got to give new ideas a go you never know  :crosseyed:

 

looks like it is getting really busy round hear with all the MTB builds on the go how are you getting on with yours so far

 

beefy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Take a mix of ideas and eventually you come up with wot works for you :rofl:

 

59 minutes ago, beefy66 said:

looks like it is getting really busy round hear with all the MTB builds on the go

 

Love it, long overdue .....

 

59 minutes ago, beefy66 said:

how are you getting on with yours so far

 

:banghead: Well you know how some times you have to take a step or two back ........

 

Well I've taken about 27 .

I wasn't happy with the frames on the side. Somehow got the spacing/positioning wrong, so Basically gutted the wardroom.Not much  posting the same again :rolleyes:

 

Normal service may be resumed ??

 

Kev

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's another idea for consideration Beefy ...

 

I used wine bottle foil to simulate the straps used to hang the splinter pads from the railing.  It's easy to form the foil around the railing, plus you get a bottle of wine. :winkgrin:

 

27014266449_6842f68042_b.jpg

 

Edited by JohnWS
  • Like 7
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 02/12/2017 at 6:24 PM, JohnWS said:

I used wine bottle foil to simulate the straps used to hang the splinter pads from the railing.

That is the same idea but with tape I was thinking of cheers John

got the uprights a bit straighter if you look at them on a funny angle  :crosseyed:

 

also changed the torpedo tubes to get the saddle at the rear of the tube and not the centre

 

looking at the instructions again I was going to put the pennant numbers on the hull and realise that the rubbing strip along the length of the hull should be higher up toward the deck ;) it may be to late to change this so might have to bite the bullet and put the numbers above the hull strip  :unamused:

 

IMG_4445.jpg

 

IMG_4444.jpg

 

IMG_4446.jpg

 

IMG_4447.jpg

 

beefy

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, beefy66 said:

 it may be to late to change this so might have to bite the bullet and put the numbers above the hull strip  :unamused:

 

...or you could repaint your upper hull colour to lower the dip...or you can get smaller numerals. I'll bet my :coat:

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beefy,

you  might have to fiddle with the Oerlikon's shield. The shield remained static and didn't move when the guns elevated. The pivot point was where the cradle joined the gun body.

See here

http://www.navweaps.com/Weapons/WNUS_2cm-70_mk234.php

You'll have to scroll down a bit to some sketch drawings.

Tom

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Courageous said:

or you could repaint your upper hull colour to lower the dip...or you can get smaller numerals.

I had thought of that but the numbers are the correct size ?

 

If the white went lower then it would be more or less at the waterline not sure that would look right?

 

1 hour ago, Modelholic said:

Beefy,

you  might have to fiddle with the Oerlikon's shield. The shield remained static and didn't move when the guns elevated. The pivot point was where the cradle joined the gun body.

See here

http://www.navweaps.com/Weapons/WNUS_2cm-70_mk234.php

You'll have to scroll down a bit to some sketch drawings.

Tom

Thanks for that link gives me a better Idea of where the shield should attach will get that sorted

 

beefy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Beefy, I ran into a similar issue with the hull numbers because I made the rubbing strip/spray rails a little too wide.  I ended up lowering the painted 'dip' as much as I could without affecting the overall look, & printed the number decals (decal paper & inkjet printer) a bit smaller than spec so they would fit. 

 

Also, here's a link to a photo showing the Oerlikon mount on one of the Canadian MTB's, for reference.

 

http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/uploads/monthly_2017_03/58c93ba6c05e9_083Oerlikon.jpg.d5da2403d297407fa3aba5e5ed8308d9.jpg

 

John

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

42 minutes ago, JohnWS said:

Beefy, I ran into a similar issue with the hull numbers because I made the rubbing strip/spray rails a little too wide.  I ended up lowering the painted 'dip' as much as I could without affecting the overall look, & printed the number decals (decal paper & inkjet printer) a bit smaller than spec so they would fit. 

 

Also, here's a link to a photo showing the Oerlikon mount on one of the Canadian MTB's, for reference.

 

http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/uploads/monthly_2017_03/58c93ba6c05e9_083Oerlikon.jpg.d5da2403d297407fa3aba5e5ed8308d9.jpg

 

John

 

 

Cheers John still a way to go yet did say I was taking my time with this one. :rage:

 

beefy

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, JohnWS said:

Beefy, I ran into a similar issue with the hull numbers because I made the rubbing strip/spray rails a little too wide.  I ended up lowering the painted 'dip' as much as I could without affecting the overall look, & printed the number decals (decal paper & inkjet printer) a bit smaller than spec so they would fit. 

 

See...see @beefy66, i do talk sense sometimes.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 08/12/2017 at 6:00 PM, Modelholic said:

Beefy,

Just looking at your comparison pics above for pennant number placement (post 84), and I'm thinking your 2pdr looks a little high compared to the drawing.

 

Hi Tom you might be right there is also a frame to go onto the breakwater but is not shown on the instructions  ;)

 

Well looking at my options for the hull numbers I could remove the side strip and risk damaging some of my work  :unamused:

 

Or I could put the numbers just above the strip and cheat not sure what that would look like when done  :think:

 

Any thoughts

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was comparing the top of the gun's receiver to the top of the wheelhouse. Although, studying further the model's bridge looks to be slanted backwards slightly (and the wheelhouse roof looks more rounded than the drawing) this could be creating an optical illusion (perspective thing) regarding the gun height.

Re. the side stripe. I'd say try and move it. If the hulls damaged it's only a matter of slapping on some filler, smooth and a repaint (Alright. ONLY! I know, I know)

Good Luck

Tom

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Beefy - I see what the problem is.  The strake/Rubbing streak is lower than on original pics and the pics in Coastal Craft Vol 2.  It's going to be a pig to remove that resin rubbing rail.

I'd try to ease that white down and squeeze the numbers in.

Did you see in my Corvete blog that I use that bendy Jakarflex flexible curve - they are well worth getting from an art shop for about £5-6.  I make a curve onto some Tamiya masking tape and then cut out with a scalpel using the "left" piece to template an equal and opposite for the other side (if that makes sense)

I'd try very gently rubbing down the "exposed" grey so as not to have to use multiple coats of white

It'll workB)

Rob

 

Edited by robgizlu
Spelling
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

gents, thanks again for all your input

 

Yes it does bug me when what I,am trying to do just will not go right  :rage:

 

Removing the Streak/Strake will cause some damage no doubt so while raking my brains today the light finally came on but only very dim I hear you say  :idea:

 

I remembered getting some number and letter decals from Peter Hall of Atlantic models these are in two sizes the larger being approx 6 mm the same as the coastal craft that come with the kit

the smaller are 4 mm in size  :think:

 

So i will be taking the easy option of re-paint the hull with the bow wave lower and just a thin strip of the grey above the waterline

 

13 hours ago, robgizlu said:

Did you see in my Corvete blog that I use that bendy Jakarflex flexible curve

Rob I did see the tool in question looks very good will keep an eye out for one at the next show

Until then i will use a rotating scalpel which I can cut the masking tape to shape and follow your instruction of a mirror cut for the other side

 

On 07/12/2017 at 7:59 AM, Courageous said:

...or you could repaint your upper hull colour to lower the dip...or you can get smaller numerals.

 

You got it right first time Stuart

 

IMG_4448.jpg

 

beefy

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, beefy66 said:

... So i will be taking the easy option of re-paint the hull with the bow wave lower and just a thin strip of the grey above the waterline ..

Sounds like a good plan beefy.  

 

Just out of interest, I wonder if all the Coastal Craft kits for the later BPB MGB/MTB's have the rub/spray rail in the wrong location?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...