Hello from Central London

[Jack109]

Good Day

 

I am new to the hobby, doing mainly ww 1/2 aircraft.

 

I am learning and I am very curious to learn from more experiences friends.

 

These days I am fighting with canopies... I have so many questions!!

 

I will also share my progresses

 

All the best!

[Gorby]

Welcome to BM Jack. Canopies are the bane of my modelling as well. I've just replied to your other post.

[huvut76g7gbbui7]

4 hours ago, Jack109 said:

I have so many questions!!

Then you have arrived at the right place Jack.

It never ceases to amaze me how a question is quickly and accurately answered and it is rare indeed to never get an answer.

[Jack109]

Thanks a lot! Your replies are very appreciated. I feel like a few weeks ago when I went to a modelling expibition near Birmingham at raf Museum... All' very knowledge people ready to help!

Especially 2 guys One from brexit modellers they gave me great tips with rigging and camouflage for ww1 Planes..

 

Yes canopies are my Nightmare at the moment ... Lots of time to do the cockpit interior and then my canopy fogs for use of varnish... 

 

I know you understand

 

 

[Martin Ford]

Hi Jack and welcome. 

You're not alone in fighting canopies. I've almost had to have a lie down after some extensive masking. 

All the best, Martin

[Jack109]

Canopies and rigging... 

 

But lately I tried some old kits... Their decals are something unforgiving!

[huvut76g7gbbui7]

Is it the glue you are using that fogs the canopy or is it the varnish?

[Jack109]

the varnish

 

I tried valleyo satin, matt and gloss as well as humbroll matt. they all fog canopies.

 

then I have to scrap it when is already glued.,... as I did apply the varnish as last step!

[Gorby]

You should avoid getting varnish on any clear parts. Clear parts should be masked before you spray varnish onto the model. The process you should follow is:

Dip the clear parts in your floor polish, then you need to let them dry for a couple of days ideally (make sure no dust can get on them). Then mask the clear parts (with masking tape) either before or after you glue them to the model. Super glue will fog clear parts, so don't use that. Then paint / spray whatever and when everything else is done, carefully remove the masking tape. Works for me anyway.

[Jack109]

Thanks I will do that 

 

That is a Simone and very clear instruction to follow.

 

I used masking liquid but It is not ad neat as the tape.

Edited May 9, 2017 by Jack109

[Eric Mc]

Although we all use or have used varnishes (such as Johnson's Klear) on our canopies, recently I have taken to not bothering. What I now do is just spend some time buffing up the canopy using very fine standing pads followed by a lint free cloth.

 

After masking the frame lines with Tamiya tape (or proper canopy masks - if I have an appropriate set), I then attach the canopy using white clear PVA glue. My favourite brand for this is Pacer 560

 

 

Being PVA -

 

it dries clear.

it can be thinned with water.

it can be smoothed with a damp finger or cotton bud and therefore can be used to fill any gaps between the canopy and the fuselage

it doesn't give off any fumes so wont fog the inside of the canopy

it also dries nice and strong. Some PVA glues are a bit weedy. Pacer 560 isn't.

 

The important thing is to leave all the canopy masking in place until ALL the main painting and varnishing of the model has been completed. This often means that removing the canopy masks is one of the last items to do prior to completion of the model.