rob85 Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 She is looking spot on mate! Lovely work. Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen Posted May 14, 2017 Author Share Posted May 14, 2017 Evening from the sunny UK. I have been clear coating the 111 over the past few nights and last night was the last top coat: It's brought out the highlights more which is great. On to the decals. Not many, although because I wanted to minimise silvering it took longer than you might think as I had to individually cut out the identification codes: And now with all on: That's it for today, just need to seal the decals with another clear coat then on to weathering next... JB 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen Posted May 20, 2017 Author Share Posted May 20, 2017 Today I had some fun chipping and panel washing this bird. I was going to attempt salt weathering but I chickened out at the last moment... coward! Chipping was done using my normal method; a fine brush and Citadel paints until I had the pattern and effect I wanted: Now on to panel-lining (if there is such a term). I wanted to reduce the amount of oil wash and clean up on this model as I had found that when I last did a wash over lighter colour paint it left it darker and grimey, no matter how well i had covered it with clear and how hard I buffed the paint afterwards! So armed with a very diluted mix I methodically applied in the right angles: I let dry for an hour or so then effortlessly wiped the unwanted away... so, so much easier. Also as there isn't so much wash on the model, I don't have to risk fingerprints or swipes as I used to suffer with previously. Looks like I've found a new method... I do like it when that happens! On to the landing gear next. I also attached the props. The landing gear was pretty fiddly but it looks like it'll be pretty robust when set. I had to use some masking tape and Superglue to keep it in the right place when setting: That's it for today folks. JB 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 (edited) Very nice! She's looking very neat and tidy johnny Edited May 20, 2017 by The Spadgent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen Posted May 20, 2017 Author Share Posted May 20, 2017 22 minutes ago, The Spadgent said: Very nice! She's looking very neat and tidy johnny Cheers mate. She won't be soon... gonna go to town on her with lots of coloured charcoals!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen Posted May 21, 2017 Author Share Posted May 21, 2017 Evening all (well if you're in the UK). I've had quite a productive day today on the 111. I spent some time this morning creating some general wear and tear stains replicating grease, oil, fuel etc with oil paints: In between this I glued landing bay and bomb bay doors: And adding further smaller bits such as the turret fittings: I then applied the matt coat and left to cure for a few hours: Then disaster!!! I started removing the canopy masking, normally a nerve racking time at best but to my horror I've found this: I've no idea what this fogging is. It looks like glue?! It's on the inside of the canopy and it's not matt varnish as I've tried gently scraping with a cocktail stick... I'll try meth spirits but so nervous in case I make it worse. Does anyone have any solutions considering where this is?! Not happy JB 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corsaircorp Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 Hey ViiK, I just found the thread now, not too late to have a great paint scheme for this one Here it is, What do you think about ?? You did great, I really like it, will find one at 1/48 but seem not easy to find and equally not easy to build. If you don't mind, I'll follow in a corner almost quietly... Sincerely. Corsaircorp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corsaircorp Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 Hi JB, Did you have tried the toothpaste on a cottonswab ? Or some tamiya liquid compound ? Sincerely. Corsaircorp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 8 hours ago, corsaircorp said: Hey ViiK, I just found the thread now, not too late to have a great paint scheme for this one Here it is, What do you think about ?? You did great, I really like it, will find one at 1/48 but seem not easy to find and equally not easy to build. If you don't mind, I'll follow in a corner almost quietly... Sincerely. Corsaircorp Hey CC. Follow away Sir... hmm, wonder if I could convert in honour of the late great Lemmy 😝 8 hours ago, corsaircorp said: Hi JB, Did you have tried the toothpaste on a cottonswab ? Or some tamiya liquid compound ? Sincerely. Corsaircorp I haven't tried anything yet. Had to walk away from it last night as I was quite depressed with it. It does look like glue and I can only assume this has seeped from the pilots control panel which is glued to the canopy. From a little reading it appears that the fogging will need aggressively sanding back and then sanding with progressively higher grades until the scratches can't be seen by the human eye... problem is it'll be a nightmare with the tiny space I have to work with. So this liquid Tamiya? Is it a polishing compound? Or... is it something that will somehow revert the foggy plastic?! I can hope right?!! Another option of course is to simply paint over part of the panel to hide it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corsaircorp Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Hi JB I use that compound for the "would have been clear parts" from short run kits. I'll give a a try with tooth paste, it is more abrasive than one can think. You better choose the cheaper one, or special whitening one ( the taste did'nt matter ) and the late Lemmy was toothless just as I'm for this while. And then a go with Tamiya compound. The automotive industry has also some compound used as scratch remover. But be carefull some of it are very agressive. This what I'll try before to use the old trick of the mechanic cleaning up the glasses with a biiiiiig towel. You can mimic that towel with the other old trick of the cigarette paper soaked with water and white glue. Have a very nice day, sure that you will get through this one just as you did with the P-38 ! Sincerely. Corsaircorp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Oh man that's a real pain. i had the same problem with my Tiffy. Did you use Tamiya green top to glue in place? Is there any way you can ping it off? It doesn't look like it but it might be worth a go. figers crossed old chap. Johnny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen Posted May 23, 2017 Author Share Posted May 23, 2017 On 2017-5-22 at 10:21 AM, corsaircorp said: Hi JB I use that compound for the "would have been clear parts" from short run kits. I'll give a a try with tooth paste, it is more abrasive than one can think. You better choose the cheaper one, or special whitening one ( the taste did'nt matter ) and the late Lemmy was toothless just as I'm for this while. And then a go with Tamiya compound. The automotive industry has also some compound used as scratch remover. But be carefull some of it are very agressive. This what I'll try before to use the old trick of the mechanic cleaning up the glasses with a biiiiiig towel. You can mimic that towel with the other old trick of the cigarette paper soaked with water and white glue. Have a very nice day, sure that you will get through this one just as you did with the P-38 ! Sincerely. Corsaircorp So i've established it must be a fogging from glue as the plastic feels smooth to the touch. I can get my Dremel in there so I may be able to sand from the inside with the appropriate 'end' then try a form of t-cut called 'Poorboys' which I have in the garage. I'll test this on an old canopy first though. Not so convinced with this one though I have to say 22 hours ago, The Spadgent said: Oh man that's a real pain. i had the same problem with my Tiffy. Did you use Tamiya green top to glue in place? Is there any way you can ping it off? It doesn't look like it but it might be worth a go. figers crossed old chap. Johnny It was the green top stuff. Just tried to ping it off but it will most defo cause quite a bit of damage to the finish plus may collapse the whole nose as it's made of 3 clear parts in total. Plus KG decal will suffer... What do we think... should I just leave it? Is it that bad? Paint over a small part of the panel? Could do this: 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qn30jEkPz7 Posted May 23, 2017 Share Posted May 23, 2017 It is a shame on a grrat looking model otherwise - I did that twice recently On a Lancaster I decided access was going to be a problem and a botched repair was likely going to end up worse than a smidge of fogging On a Vampire I managed to rescue it working progressively with very fine sandpaper, some kitchen hob cleaner then finally some whitening toothpaste 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted May 24, 2017 Share Posted May 24, 2017 Tamiya green top is ace but I've found it fogs canopies something rotten. I always use super glue on my clear parts now. My ten penneth would be to paint a panel like your (I'm guessing photoshop moc) but it all depends if you could live with it the other way. The panel seems a more elegant solution. Jont 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen Posted May 25, 2017 Author Share Posted May 25, 2017 On 23/05/2017 at 9:00 PM, LostCosmonauts said: It is a shame on a grrat looking model otherwise - I did that twice recently On a Lancaster I decided access was going to be a problem and a botched repair was likely going to end up worse than a smidge of fogging On a Vampire I managed to rescue it working progressively with very fine sandpaper, some kitchen hob cleaner then finally some whitening toothpaste It is such a swine. I'm normally exceptionally careful, so can only assume I put a tad too much on hence the fogging. Strange how it wasn't noticeable prior to masking... Lesson learned! Thanks though, I'm quite pleased with the finish aside from that. I've purchased some very fine WAD, 3600-10,000 grade to smooth off the Matt coat (and for repairing canopies in the future grrr), to get her just right. 10 hours ago, The Spadgent said: Tamiya green top is ace but I've found it fogs canopies something rotten. I always use super glue on my clear parts now. My ten penneth would be to paint a panel like your (I'm guessing photoshop moc) but it all depends if you could live with it the other way. The panel seems a more elegant solution. Jont Yep, avoiding now! Will resort to PVA or superglue although I have also had bad results with superglue! Clear parts are my nemesis... I think I'll paint it as it's keeping me up at night!! Could make it look like a temporary repair or something although unlikely to be historically accurate. Cheers, JB 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen Posted May 26, 2017 Author Share Posted May 26, 2017 So... I have made my decision; I've painted it! I masked the offending clear panel and went for it: I did the trick but I didn't like the lopsided feel so thought stuff it, and masked the other side up: Much better. It doesn't look as bad as I thought it would and after I've weathered and matt coated it,hopefully it'll be barely recognisable. What do you think? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 Yes, I think you made the right decision. Like it was meant to be. johnny. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen Posted May 28, 2017 Author Share Posted May 28, 2017 3 hours ago, The Spadgent said: Yes, I think you made the right decision. Like it was meant to be. johnny. Cheers Johnny, I'm going to finish it tomorrow just in time for the next arrival 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 (edited) And she's done! Here's a sneak peak: RFI will be up shortly. Thanks for joining in with the trials and tribulations of this seemingly cursed build... still got there in the end JB Edited June 3, 2017 by Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supersonic Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 (edited) Superb painting & weathering job! Which citadel colours did you use for the chipping? Edited January 28, 2018 by supersonic 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Victory-is-in-the-Kitchen Posted January 28, 2018 Author Share Posted January 28, 2018 8 hours ago, supersonic said: Superb painting & weathering job! Which citadel colours did you use for the chipping? Hi, thanks! Runefang Steel exclusively. I applied with a small 0.2 brush in the obvious airflow and maintenance areas and after sealing the base colours with Humbrol Clear. I then added my usual oil wash then sealed with a matt coat. This, I find, doesn't make the chipping look too stark. Hope that helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SallysDad Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Looks great. I have wondered over the years, though, why the Germans used this kind of camo scheme, especially with colours which were very much alike. Was it effective in real life? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phildagreek Posted January 28, 2018 Share Posted January 28, 2018 Looking very sharp! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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