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    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.
Viking

Sopwith F.1 Camel "The Duellists" (Part 1) - 1:32 Wingnut Wings

69 posts in this topic
On 5/13/2017 at 11:09 PM, Calum said:

great work John. Do you have approx ratio's for the PC10 and CDL, or do you mix til it looks right to you?

 

Calum, PC10 is probaly 70% olive drab, 20% red brown, and 10% black. I say probably because I mix it by eye, trying to get that 'is it green or is it brown' look.

CDL is also by eye, to get an off white cream look. I mix a whole batch in an empty Tamiya jar, so it lasts a while.

 

On 5/14/2017 at 6:17 PM, RNAS1916 said:

Hi Viking,

What width tape did you use on the rib masking, was it cut to size or ready made?

Cheers

 

I cut it from 10mm Tamiya tape with a steel ruler and new blade, on one of those grid marked cutting mats.

 

Cheers

 

John

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Well the daily routines have been getting inthe way of modelling altely, but I have now made some more progress!

I am rigging with Maxima Chameleon 4lb fishing line.

First task was to deepen all the holes that the lines would be secured in, using a 0.3mm drill. And breaking 2 of them.

Then a length of line was cyano'ed into each one. I cut them at least twice as long as they need to be. A dab of accelerator helps lock them into place, and leave it all alone for 24 hours.

cam54.jpg

 

Then it is time to secure the outer struts. I glued them in to the bottom wing only with Revell Contacta, and in order to line them up while they dry overnight I did this;

Turned it over, and dry fitted the tops of the struts into their slots in the top wing. A couple of paint jars provide a bit of gentle weight to make sure they stay put. The rigging lines are ignored at this time.

cam55.jpg

Next day, the struts have glued in firmly, so lift it off the top wing and turn it over. The rigging holes in the top wing are all now drilled right through the wing using a 0.4mm drill.

Note that I have pushed some short lengths of fishing line through some of the holes in the top wing, around the cabane strut locations. These are secured with tape on the other side, It is a new idea I am trying. Sometimes you get a bit of glue 'ooze' out of the socket when the strut goes in, and it can block the rigging holes. I figure that if that happens, they will be clear when I pull the short lengths out after the top wing is firmly dried on. (Skipping ahead here - but it worked! There was a bit of oozing, just enough to block a couple of holes. But I pulled the sacrificial lengths out, and hey presto, clear holes!)

cam56.jpg

The top wing was glued on and left to set. Then all the lines were pulled tight  through the correct holes, and secured with a drop of cyano, using one of those 0.3mm drill bits I broke, as an applicator in a pair of locking tweezers. Do one line, then do its opposite number on the other side. Equalise the strain on the rigging as you work.

cam59.jpg

 

cam58.jpg

 

The litlle 'bullet' with wires passing through was giving me nightmares, thinking how to do it. In the end it was a doddle. I drilled through it, fed the lines through from the bottom, and secured the 'bullet' with a dab of cyano on each line. Then threaded the upper 2 lines through the upper wing, to give the characteristc look of this bit of rigging. I'm really pleased with it, I thought it was going to be a real ' bear' but it couldn't have been easier.

cam57.jpg

 

I left all the 'hairy' lines in place overnight and trimmed them off flush this evening. There are still a pair of 'double' lines that go from the undercarriage leg to the top of the forward outer strut. But I need the undercarriage legs glued in before I can do those. So the legs are fixed in place now!

cam60.jpg

 

I'll get those lines in, and also rig the undercarraige legs themselves. Then make good the exit holes on the top surface of the top wing.

I like using fishing line as it does what real rigging does, and adds extra strenght to the model. It's not so essential on a smallish model like this, but the bigger ones can wobble a bit before you get them rigged.

 

Thanks for looking

 

John

 

 

 

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Looks a real treat John :thumbsup: Beautiful clean work.

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Nice progress John and I'm really enjoying the step by step insight to your build approach.

 

To date I've only used EZ-Line for rigging but reading between the lines I gather that using fishing line actually provides some structural integrity to the kit.

 

Does the kit 'need' the strength from the rigging and does the fishing line stay taut or does it slacken off over time?

 

 

 

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On 5/25/2017 at 7:55 AM, Howlindawg said:

To date I've only used EZ-Line for rigging but reading between the lines I gather that using fishing line actually provides some structural integrity to the kit.

 

Does the kit 'need' the strength from the rigging and does the fishing line stay taut or does it slacken off over time?

 

Hi Howlindog, the Camel probably doesn't need the strength from the rigging, but I think some of the larger ones like the 2 seaters definately benefit from it. I have noticed a bit of slacking off on hot humid days, but it does tend to tighten up again by itself.

 

Meanwhile there is progress on the Camel. I have now trimmed off all the excess rigging and spotted Milliput filler on the exit holes,

cam61.jpg

 

Sanded & tidied up, with tape in place to protect against overspray from the Halfords grey primer rattlecan. This is partly why I left the tailgroup off, and don't put any decals on yet, so as not to expose them to overspray.

cam62.jpg

 

cam63.jpg

 

Primer sprayed on;

cam64.jpg

 

Followed by PC10

cam65.jpg

 

Tailgroup now attached;

cam66.jpg

 

cam67.jpg

 

A bit of oil streaking/staining from the engine;

cam68.jpg

 

I need several decals on before I can get the final rigging done. Mainly elevator wires that exit the fuselage under the '6', and aileron wires under the roundels. I should have left the ailerons off until the roundels were on, as they go down into the hinge line. Drat! lesson for the next Camel build.

cam69.jpg

 

cam70.jpg

I glued the cowling on with white glue, as any 'oozing' can be wiped off with a damp cloth and not spoil the silver finish. The fit is perfect so you can get away with doing it like this.

cam71.jpg

 

cam72.jpg

 

cam73.jpg

 

Not too much more to do now, mainly just the bomb rack & bombs, the final decals, and rigging the tailgroup & control lines.

 

Thanks for looking,

 

John

 

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Hi John, have just spent a pleasant half hour reading this thread. 

I absolutely love your work. What some of you boys do amazes me.

 

Was interesting reading what you said about the rigging through the 'bullet'. I have been thinking about that piece since I bought a Camel, was thinking the only thing that would work was some sort of Harry Potter levitation spell. 

 

Congratulations on making something so special. 

 

All the best, Martin

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Looks really nice John! Very clean and sharp :thumbsup::selfie: I really need to learn to be as neat.

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Wow this looks great would love one of these to build.  Great tip on keeping the rigging holes clear, thanks.

 

Keep up the great work

 

All the best
Chris

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On ‎21‎/‎05‎/‎2017 at 3:37 AM, Beardie said:

Thanks John,

 

The bullet was actually a lot easier to drill out (while on the sprue) than I had thought it would be.

I can't deny I am tempted to do the Red/white and Black/white flight leaders aircraft as well now :hypnotised:

How exactly did you go about rigging the bullet Beardie ? I'm nearly at the stage on my 2F1 and was wondering about how to tackle doin it.

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4 hours ago, Viking said:

 

Hi Howlindog, the Camel probably doesn't need the strength from the rigging, but I think some of the larger ones like the 2 seaters definately benefit from it. I have noticed a bit of slacking off on hot humid days, but it does tend to tighten up again by itself.

 

Meanwhile there is progress on the Camel. I have now trimmed off all the excess rigging and spotted Milliput filler on the exit holes,

cam61.jpg

 

Sanded & tidied up, with tape in place to protect against overspray from the Halfords grey primer rattlecan. This is partly why I left the tailgroup off, and don't put any decals on yet, so as not to expose them to overspray.

cam62.jpg

 

cam63.jpg

 

Primer sprayed on;

cam64.jpg

 

Followed by PC10

cam65.jpg

 

Tailgroup now attached;

cam66.jpg

 

cam67.jpg

 

A bit of oil streaking/staining from the engine;

cam68.jpg

 

I need several decals on before I can get the final rigging done. Mainly elevator wires that exit the fuselage under the '6', and aileron wires under the roundels. I should have left the ailerons off until the roundels were on, as they go down into the hinge line. Drat! lesson for the next Camel build.

cam69.jpg

 

cam70.jpg

I glued the cowling on with white glue, as any 'oozing' can be wiped off with a damp cloth and not spoil the silver finish. The fit is perfect so you can get away with doing it like this.

cam71.jpg

 

cam72.jpg

 

cam73.jpg

 

Not too much more to do now, mainly just the bomb rack & bombs, the final decals, and rigging the tailgroup & control lines.

 

Thanks for looking,

 

John

 

Very nice so far. Top job on the rigging.

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Hi Devo,

 

The way I tackled the Bullet was to drill it while it was still on the sprue using a 0.4mm drill bit. I tried to keep the drill bit as square on to the bullet as possible, aimed at the hole on the opposite side of the bullet and prayed that I hit the spot and then did the same thing with the other pair of holes so I ended up with two holes that crossed over in the middle of the bullet. It sounds a lot more difficult than it actually turned out. The first piece of prym elastic went straight through although I had to poke the piece that crossed over it through with a 0.3mm drill bit as the elastic is too flexible to make it through against the intersecting piece without help. Once this was done I attached the four ends of elastic to the model. I didn't glue the bullet in place at this point as it needs to be in a position that it won't go to naturally. Finally, the tricky bit, grab the bullet with some fine pointed tweezers and pull it up to approximately where it should be and use a fine wire to apply CA to the points where the elastic passes through the bullet.

 

I have to add that it is quicker and easier to get the bullet in place than it is to describe how it is done. After worrying about it for ages and 'biting the bullet' if you'll pardon the pun, it took no time at all to do it and it all went very smoothly. :D

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2 hours ago, Beardie said:

Hi Devo,

 

The way I tackled the Bullet was to drill it while it was still on the sprue using a 0.4mm drill bit. I tried to keep the drill bit as square on to the bullet as possible, aimed at the hole on the opposite side of the bullet and prayed that I hit the spot and then did the same thing with the other pair of holes so I ended up with two holes that crossed over in the middle of the bullet. It sounds a lot more difficult than it actually turned out. The first piece of prym elastic went straight through although I had to poke the piece that crossed over it through with a 0.3mm drill bit as the elastic is too flexible to make it through against the intersecting piece without help. Once this was done I attached the four ends of elastic to the model. I didn't glue the bullet in place at this point as it needs to be in a position that it won't go to naturally. Finally, the tricky bit, grab the bullet with some fine pointed tweezers and pull it up to approximately where it should be and use a fine wire to apply CA to the points where the elastic passes through the bullet.

 

I have to add that it is quicker and easier to get the bullet in place than it is to describe how it is done. After worrying about it for ages and 'biting the bullet' if you'll pardon the pun, it took no time at all to do it and it all went very smoothly. :D

Thanks Beardie, I'll have a crack with your method.

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Just caught up with this after being away. This is an excellent thread - thanks for describing your rigging and touch up techniques in such detail. Threads which explain clearly in this way are so helpful to the rest of us - and hopefully encourage others to have a go too.

 

The model is up to your usual super-fine standard.

 

P

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Great work!

 

Iain

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Hi,

Been waiting patiently for the latest stages. Looks just great, keep it coming.

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Thank you very much for the feedback chaps, it is appreciated as always. Now on to the final stages!

The elevator control wires were secured in the fuselage by the number 6, and each one led through a pre drilled hole in the elevator. I ran it over the top of the cotrol horn, pulled both lines tight and secured with a drop of cyano. For total accuracy the lines should end at the control horn, and a shorter section lead down to the hole from a couple on mm down on the reverse of the horn. I took the pragmatic and easy way out though!

 

cam74.jpg

 

Unfortunately the next 2 photos were in poor light and I didn't check them until later, when I had changed things! They illustrate the point though, which is that I think the white areas of decal are too 'nice and claen' and a bit stark.

 

cam75.jpg

 

cam76.jpg

 

I brushed some powdered artists chalks over them to tone & blend them in a little, (Green, Brown & Black mix) If you get it wrong you can jsut wipe over with a damp tissue and start again. It is very subtle and doesn't show too well here, but the improvement is much more apparent in real life.

cam81.jpg

 

cam82.jpg

 

cam80.jpg

 

cam83.jpg

 

cam84.jpg

 

Finished! More in "Ready For Inspection - here"

cam89.jpg

 

Thanks for looking, and for all the comments made!

The LVG is under construction now :smile:

 

lvg7.jpg

 

lvg8.jpg

 

John

 

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Fine looking Camel, well executed.:thumbsup:

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Brilliant, thoroughly enjoyable read.

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2 hours ago, RNAS1916 said:

Brilliant, thoroughly enjoyable read.

 

Thank you RNAS1916, it is genuinely nice to know that all the work that goes into building, photographing, and writing this stuff up, is giving someone and enjoyable read,

so it's not just me having fun doing it!

 

Cheers

 

John

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