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Danish F-100 questions


RidgeRunner

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Nice work Rob. Certainly it beats my efforts. I'll post a picture when I can get back to my PC. I haven't yet got the wings on. 

 

Regards,

 

Martin

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11 hours ago, Jens said:

 

Gents, I have uploaded a series of pictures to my website:

http://www.amarc.dk/index.php/gallery-mainmenu-31/27-jet-aircraft-pictures/128-rdaf-f-100-detail-pictures

 

Jens

 

 

Excellent, Jens. That is so helpful!

 

Martin

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Hej again Jens!

 

looking at the images, and I realise that I reality what was used, the paint doesn't come out looking like FS34079... For modelling I reckon closer to olive drab or US SEA medium Green? If either of those is lightened I reckon it would be a good match? 

 

M

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Murph, I don't know how far back the green colour went. Perhaps all the way. I have checked all my pictures but the one on my site is the best of them, the rest showing just a black hole.

 

Martin, please note that the very brown colour in my pictures is from an airframe that has been stored outside for 20 years or more, i.e. the colour is not realistic for an operational airframe.

 

Jens

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On 4/30/2017 at 11:09 PM, Jens said:

 

Jens, many thanks indeed! Your photos, plus the DanMil drawing, inspired me to build RWR antenna pods today.

 

From the drawing I measured that the wingtip RWR antennas were 1.2-1.3 mm diameter and 28.5 mm long, of which 21.5 mm was cilindrical, with two 3.5 mm conical ends. I made the former from 1.3 mm Albion tubing, and the latter from 1.3 mm plastic rod, turned in my motor tool against sandpaper. However the conical ends proved to be prone to breaking, many failed during the sanding. Since the model would be handled a lot during assembly and painting, and these antennas were at the wing tips, I needed something stronger. The best alternative I could think of was a toothpick soaked in superglue. That material worked equally well during the turning, and felt a lot stronger.

 

I attached one to a shortened wing tip, using a spacer at the front for yaw alignment. Milliput or Apoxie is next.

 

f100-22.jpg

 

Thanks again for the inspiration!

 

Rob

 

Edited by Rob de Bie
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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Jens et al,

 

Do you (or anyone of this thread) know why the Danish paint at that time faded as it did? I ask because it looks like it faded overall but the mechanics then over painted seams, panels, etc with fresh paint as a sealer? Is that correct or did the paint used simply fade in the centre of panels and gradually it crept out to the edges, leaving a darker line along most (if not all) panels? Knowing this will help my anticipated painting epic!! ;)

 

Thanks all,

 

Martin

 

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The green paint faded because is was flat (we can still see that today on our flat green/flat black vehicles). The darker areas were either touch-ups or simply finger grease from handling (I have tried rubbing my fingers on some of the faded areas of the vehicles, and the colours change into a fresher version).

Jens

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You're welcome Martin.

The weather forecast for next week doesn't look too good; clouds and rain showers most days. Anyway, perhaps that would be a good excuse to visit Tøjhusmuseet in Copenhagen (http://en.natmus.dk/museums/the-royal-danish-arsenal-museum/) and Teknisk Museum in Helsingør north of Copenhagen (http://tekniskmuseum.dk/english/). If you were going to Jutland it would most likely be possible to find one of the few remaining Huns. :)

Jens

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Sadly I won't have time. It is a work trip and only one day. The museums will have to be for next visit. I've been around Jutland, visited Karup and Aalborg, plus Stauning. Oddly I didn't see a Super Sabre anywhere! 

 

Martin

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