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    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.
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Will Vale

Shadow War Armageddon

36 posts in this topic

Hi all,

 

While I'm not supposed to be buying models this year (and that's kinda sorta going OK) I noticed that GW was re-releasing the Necromunda rule set with normal Warhammer 40K forces and some cool plastic scenery kits. Luckily these are technically playing pieces for a miniature war game, and not in any way miniatures or models of any kind.

 

Phew.

 

The box comes with some standard plastic Space Marine Scouts (OK, I already have a couple from that jungle game) and some scouts with sniper rifles (a bit old and clunky, but they'll be OK with paint) plus 11 Ork Boyz. The Orks are pretty cool and I've put enough together to make a team. No pictures yet because they aren't primed, but I made some bases for them yesterday which was a fun little project:

 

33991561402_b13aae9edd_b.jpg

 

They're on 32mm round bases with some plasticard tiles, bits of sprue with the ends hollowed out, scrap plastic and the cool GW crackle paint. I was really impressed with that actually, it looked like it wasn't doing anything and then boom, cracks everywhere :) I also added a little sand and grit to bring things together and fill gaps. If I was really classy I'd have filled the edges where the discs don't quite match the bases as well... There's one more base but I forgot to prime it in this batch.

 

The real meat of this is the plastic terrain though:

 

33991565892_4b2f7ebf04_b.jpg

33991569162_d15ed9364b_b.jpg

33991574982_96f7fb00d6_b.jpg

 

It's moulded in China but better quality than the Age of Sigmar terrain in that it all fits pretty well. I haven't used any filler on the bits above although there are a couple of places it might really have been desirable. I have some left-over bits not shown because they do need filler - various pipes and things - and it's going to be a big job.

 

I also have a pile of ladders which are a paint to clean up as there are two nut-and-bolt mouldings for every rung. I guess I could just cut them off as they don't make much sense.

 

I'm thinking that I will use the hairspray technique on these and go with fairly light colours, so the red oxide primer will be the visible chip colour. It is a wee bit light though?

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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Those scenery pieces look pretty epic Will

 

5 hours ago, Will Vale said:

I'm thinking that I will use the hairspray technique on these and go with fairly light colours, so the red oxide primer will be the visible chip colour. It is a wee bit light though?

 

I think it should look fine for the chipping colour, but I suppose you could add some post shading in the nooks and crannies with hull red or something similar.

 

Andy

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They're cool aren't they - I should've taken a scale shot but will try and remember next time around.

 

In usual GW style the pieces are pretty big - e.g. the big tank is four pieces for the main cylinder, the other two are two each. The gantry supports are single pieces. They filled up spare space on the sprues with the dangling pipes, chains and hooks which is all very nice, but I'll probably add a bit more of that as I go along.

 

Unusually (as I'm generally a painter not a player) my daughter and I played a game of Shadow War and enjoyed it. We had the scenery clipped together but it was a bit wobbly so I've made up the chunks you can see above, which are a lot more robust and still pretty flexible layout-wise. (Both catwalks are still two bits each.)

 

I was thinking about spraying some thinned black into the recesses, but I'll have a look in daylight against e.g. pale cream topcoat and see if it'll work. Still not sure about colours but cream, blue-grey and green-grey all feel like potential options.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

 

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Thats some cool scenery bits, look forward to seeing some paint Will 

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I did a bit of pre-shading with Alclad Black as it dries fast, then sprayed some AK "Worn Effects" on the small tank's panels. I've previously used actual hairspray and I prefer the pleasant scent, but the for-modellers stuff is very convenient to airbrush. I then gave it a coat of Tamiya Yellow Green sprayed in clouds and squiggles, with some highlights of the same mixed with Flat White. I'm not really a fan of lemon yellows so I warmed it up with a thin layer of Clear Orange, also applied in a patchy way. After that was dried with a heat gun I attacked it with a stiff brush and tap water.

 

34127366766_7d36cb8ce5_b.jpg

 

This side is more restrained, the other (which had two coats of fluid) is a touch over-done. I've painted over a couple of larger chips with the base colour already.

 

34127367766_f0e91002b4_b.jpg

 

Overall I'm quite happy. I was hoping to avoid the recesses when spraying the yellow but didn't bother to mask them, so I'm going to be doing a bit of hand painting or else masking the panels.

 

I'm thinking that on tank two I might try spraying some Alclad steel and brass for the pipes first, then covering the whole thing with hairspray and using that to remove the overspray while chipping?

 

Will

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Looking good. 

 

When it comes to 'traditional' hairspray vs purpose made chipping fluid; you can still find hairspray in old-school pump/mist bottles which at least saves you having to decant it. 

 

In my not very scientific experiments into the differences between £1 hairspray (in a can) vs AK normal and heavy chipping effects I found the £1 can slightly better. Only because I found the chipping effects capable of activating itself and 'bubbling' if you were trying to get a heavier coat on (built up in layers obviously, I wasn't just sploshin it on). The 'proper' hairspray also stayed chip-able for, quite literally, months. Even when using Tamiya thinned with lacquer thinners I could still go back and chip the paintwork with a bit if water and a brush, whereas the AK stuff seemed to lose the ability to be chipped relatively quickly (which they warn against themselves in their painting mecha book, I seem to remember). 

 

Not a problem for most but if you're the kind of person who sometimes only gets 20 minutes at a time to model the fact that you can lay the hairspray down, leave it then spray the paint coat and leave that whilst being able to come back several days later and actually do the chipping. 

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Some good advice there, thanks! I've had the hairspray from the can bubble up a bit but it's usually settled down dead smooth after all the water has evaporated. I agree that a longer working time is useful although in this case I was able to chip it straight away so not a problem.

 

I should've taken some work-in-progress pics but I think the first tank is basically done.

 

34186021995_43aa34184a_b.jpg

 

The light chips had some dark brown and black brushed inside them which I think makes a big difference.

 

I washed thinned brown paint around the edges of the panels and basically tinted the overspray and reclaimed it as weathering - which saved a lot of time! I also dry-brushed the pipes to give them a slight greasy metal sheen and picked out a couple of small metallic details for contrast and interest. The red bits were painted with stippled glazes blended out with a wet brush, so the overspray texture shows through a bit. Then it all had a couple of layers of black enamel washes and brown/rust streaking.

 

To finish things off I added the GW yellow glaze to a couple of panels on each side to enrich them, and made a thin glaze from their pale cream-yellow edge paint to knock back the weathering a bit on the tops and panel frames. To help tie in with the figures there's an edge highlight in the same yellow (Dorn Yellow from the edge paints range). Last of all there's some AK glossy weathering stuff for oil spills and gunk.

 

It's all quite loud but against a figure I think it settles down and works right:

 

34055084891_95f278bb74_b.jpg

 

I will try and take the learnings from this onto the next bits - I think as a compromise between speed and quality it's not bad though :)

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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Looks pretty spiffy to me.

 

You could always take it up a notch by highlighting the bottom edges of the some of the chips with your edge highlight to give them a bit of depth.

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Tempting :) I did get a couple of truly 3D chips from the hairspray, but they don't really show in the pictures.

 

I didn't post these yet but here are the Orks to go on the bases:

 

33325691384_b59faa6e0f_b.jpg

34168046515_48f9ea4d05_b.jpg

 

And the boss and spanna boyz:

 

34168047395_d77db9291e_b.jpg

 

I added a layer of white primer over the grey where the skin and bright armour plates are, sprayed from above to give a hint of shading. I'm hoping to combine that with glazes to paint the skin. Given that these are Orks who've been fighting in the bowels of a hive world I wonder if they should be rather at the pale end of the Ork skin spectrum?

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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Cracking start Will,like the idea of the pallid orcs.

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WAAAGH!     Ear we go, ear we go, ear we go…..


Da Boyz iz proppa lookin good.

Once da Painboy sitkz and sews dem back together theyz will show dem ‘umies how Lootin’ and Fightin’ should be dun.

I ain't got nuffin but respekt for Boyz wiv lotz a Dakka.

 

You%20iz%20an%20ork.png

 

Mart

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Dat fing wiv all da arrers makes my hed hurty but da smartboy sez it sez WAAAAGH so dat's good. We needs plenty o' dakka so dat sum of it mite aktually hit sumwun :) We iz also lookin' at a ded killy power klaw for da boss but we iz short on teef.

 

I was thinking of some Orky names and have a strong desire to go all Postgate/Firmin with Boss Zogbad da Bad and his Spanna Boys Zoggin da Zog and Olaf da Shifty. The yoofs could then be Firkin and Postal, not sure about the boyz but I suppose Poor Zogson ought to be in there somewhere, maybe Ka-nutz as well?

 

W

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1 hour ago, Will Vale said:

Zoggin da Zog

zoggin.png

 

:D Mart

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I painted an Ork! But more importantly I put some base coats on more scenery. This time I tried adding Alclad Steel to the recessed areas and using can hairspray for that flowery smell.

 

34077825552_21b43ff23e_b.jpg

 

Then applied Tamiya Cockpit Green and a similar yellow mix to the blower thingy:

 

34077827922_ea69b2f82d_b.jpg

 

The hairspray is a lot more "active" than the chipping fluid and I had some crazing where the paint went on a bit wet. I think for this kind of thing that's all fine but for a tank or similar it'd not be a great result.

 

I was able to do the thing I was planning where I washed off most of the overspray by activating the hairspray, but because it foams I had to rinse it off and now I have to wait an age for the water to dry up properly so I can chip the green panels. It's all ultra fragile until that happens obviously.

 

But you don't want to see that, you want to see the Ork right?

 

34077743552_5bfea164a7_b.jpg

34104118651_2e9abda01f_b.jpg

 

I wasn't sure how well it was going as it's a bit neat and un-Orky, but then I added the white dagz and the flames and it made more sense. It probably didn't help that the head was done separately and stuck on at the end. Anyway, I'm happy now and will try and go with variations on this for the other models.

 

For (my) reference, the skin is a heavy wash of Athonian Camoshade, two glazes of Waywatcher green and one of Lamenters Yellow. This looks OK as-is, but once I'd done the face I wanted to take it a bit further. I added highlights from Skarsnik Green mixed with Waywatcher Green, extreme higlights with Gauss Blaster Green and Flayed One Flesh mixes, glazed again with Waywatcher green and washed Biel-Tan green into the recesses between the muscles. I'm still not entirely sure how to highlight muscles but I think he looks OK.

 

Then I went to look at the last Orks I painted (which I was pleased with at the time) 

 

7539709910_7e6c38188c_b.jpg

7540717812_47dfa8b167_b.jpg

 

and I reckon I'm making some legitimate progress!

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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Great paint on the orc Will, i really like the white detail on the gun

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Thanks! Orks are apparently really into triangles and checks, but only triangles are easy to paint :)

 

I chipped the green paint on the dome and tank - I was able to remove most of the overspray this way, but then had to rinse the foamy paint residue off under the tap so it was a bit fragile until it dried again. When I came to chip the panels I had to be super careful, but it was possible to see what would happen by looking for relief in the paint.

 

34122685081_879489d1a2_b.jpg

 

The big tank got a couple of extra big chips on the rim/cap when I picked it up with what I thought was excessive care!

 

34122694301_d23273a111_b.jpg

 

I'll leave it 24h before carrying on and be careful with the wetter layers!

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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More dome pictures I'm afraid! I added some Scorched Brown and Black in the larger chips and some scruffy edge highlights with Dorn Yellow and Gauss Blaster Green:

 

34114522752_7b319317a0_b.jpg

 

The brown/black was also washed into the metal areas, and then I gave them a heavy black enamel wash and also added it to the panel lines. The panels have too much surface texture (crazing in the paint) so the wash moved rather too far, I need to gloss coat them before doing more enamel work.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

 

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How big are these Will? It would be interesting to see a common object to get a hint of the scale you are working with. 

 

Im really liking that first tank you did and the pilot orcs look amazing

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Sorry I haven't given much sense of scale yet - the base on the scout with the first tank is 25mm and the larger tank's ends are the same diameter as the smaller tank. Will try and remedy this when I get a bit further.

 

Spent a long time this afternoon painting a Juggernaught and my daughter worked on her team for Shadow War. She finished the first figure after about four hours of concentrated work, I'm rather impressed!

 

33473369904_cded13e892_b.jpg

 

She did the assembly and primed it with the airbrush as well :) I haven't convinced her that it's worth removing mould lines yet though!

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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Did a bit more in the evenings this week, weathering the dome with enamels and painting various bits with Citadel paints. I also added some filters to the panels as per the yellow thingy. I finally had time at lunch today to varnish it, so I can see what it actually looks like now the gloss has been killed:

 

33741501404_7d7d049986_b.jpg

34453886831_49d64c7b79_b.jpg

 

Perhaps not as nice as the yellow one - it could do with more colours of rust, for one thing - but I'm trying not to get bogged down as the bigger the pieces are, the more details they have to paint!

 

On 4/26/2017 at 10:12 AM, The Chief Smeg said:

How big are these Will? It would be interesting to see a common object to get a hint of the scale you are working with. 

 

 

Hopefully a Tamiya paint pot is a suitable cue - here's what I've got so far:

 

34453892821_a9e64f82ba_b.jpg

 

The last step is to add the bright metallics - e.g. the edging on the enamelled plaque, the gauge housings, and the handwheel on the top are the main things, but I'll probably drybrush some different metal tones on the recessed bits too.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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I added some metals and tried to blend/thin the dodgy edge highlights down a bit. Maybe I should drybrush these instead, I was using them as a way to tie the scenery and minis together stylistically.

 

The silver bits are Boltgun Metal and Mithril Silver, and the gold is Retributor Armour I think? I added some dark brown and verdigris washes to blend it all in, and drybrushed the tubes and things with a couple of different metal shades.

 

34560263046_c090b83b31_b.jpg

34560265966_5ca67ef509_b.jpg

 

The gauges could do with lenses - maybe blobs of epoxy - at a later date.

 

I rather like the little hatch on the top:

 

33791816353_ede647d4e2_b.jpg

 

Currently working on the other green tank which needs quite a lot of base-coating over and above the airbrush work as it's not very "panel-ey".

 

Cheers,

 

Will

 

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Thats looking very nice Will, great paint, and your daughters done a cracking job too mate

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Thanks, she spent some time on Sunday afternoon sticking more bits together and now has a complete squad with accompanying drones. We need to add some grit to the bases and then get them primed next.

 

I also spent some time in the evenings detailing the third tank - I've painted in various features with acrylics, painted the interiors of all the chips and finally set to with enamels to add shadows, streaks, rust and dirt. I used MIG dark wash, AK Rust streaks, slimy grime and dark streaking grime on the vertical surfaces, and blended engine grime over the lower horizontal surfaces. I finished off with some Africa Dust Effects blended over the upper horizontal surfaces, and a bit of crusty rust deposits here and there.

 

It seems to be a fluff-magnet - I went over with a ball of blu-tak and a magnifier collecting what I could find before taking the pics, but there's still a piece I missed!

 

34279505780_834fb75dc5_b.jpg

34279509330_8d7c663428_b.jpg

 

Close-up the chipping from the hairspray looks nice and random, and the enamels help it blend in a bit.

 

33822334304_6bfd732f7d_b.jpg

 

Probably needs a couple of filters now, touch-ups, and then matt varnish and metal/glossy oils.

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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Still shadowing away, I did a bit of edge highlighting (first drybrushed, then final highlights applied with a brush) of the upper edges. I used Gauss Blaster Green on the green bits, and a bright orange-red on the rust which turned out a bit bright so I knocked it back with a sepia wash. I also picked out the lower edges of some chips in the same green, and added acrylic chipping with a brush to the yellow tanks and a couple of other spots.

 

34304152830_56b6f3174b_b.jpg

 

As with the dome various panels had a filter of green or green-yellow acrylics.

 

34648465656_d01487dbd0_b.jpg

 

I then sealed all the panels and some of the rustier metal with Alclad Klear Kote Flat, so the next job is to do the metal bits and also paint some details like the plaques which I left half-done.

 

34304168290_0f27af7b98_b.jpg

 

Cheers,

 

Will

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Loving the way these are coming together Will. The colour combinations work really well, and I love the grungy, grimy look around the top of the tank.

 

Andy

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