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    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.
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Valleyofvallejo

About primers & putty

Hello everyone. I am currently building a 1/72 Rafale M by Revell (Italeri reboxing) & I have a can of Mr Surfacer 1000 that I will be planning on trading for some other primer at my local hobby store. I have made some mistakes with my kit (because I'm a total beginner) so I would need some kind of putty. I will need to fill both small & relatively large gaps. I have a few questions to ask.

 

Would lacquer based primers fog up clear plastic? What would you need to thin Tamiya putty (basic type) & can you use Contacta Professional (the only glue that I have ATM) to thin the putty?

My local hardware stores don't sell Miliput (I live in Australia BTW) so will the following epoxy putty do? http://www.selleys.com.au/fillers-putty/epoxy/knead-it-aqua/ 

 

 

 

 

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On 19/4/2017 at 10:54 AM, Valleyofvallejo said:

.

 

Would lacquer based primers fog up clear plastic?

 

 clear plastic (like canopies)  should be masked before spraying primer, so I guess fogging is not an issue. 

On 19/4/2017 at 10:54 AM, Valleyofvallejo said:

What would you need to thin Tamiya putty (basic type) & can you use Contacta Professional (the only glue that I have ATM) to thin the putty?

Tamiya putty can indeed be thinned with plastic cement. I think  you can also thin it with acetone or lacquer thinner.

I do not know about this brand of putty, but I suspect it will not be as smooth as Milliput. Anyway epoxy putty is probably better

kept for rather large reshaping jobs, for most gaps standard modeling putty is better. 

Personally I use CA glue most of the time to fill gaps, and CA accelerator applied with a toothpick. It sets instantly and hardens to a consistence very close to styrene, so it is easy to sand.

 

HTH,

 

Christian.

On 19/4/2017 at 10:54 AM, Valleyofvallejo said:

My local hardware stores don't sell Miliput (I live in Australia BTW) so will the following epoxy putty do? http://www.selleys.com.au/fillers-putty/epoxy/knead-it-aqua/ 

 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, cger said:

 

 clear plastic (like canopies)  should be masked before spraying primer, so I guess fogging is not an issue. 

Tamiya putty can indeed be thinned with plastic cement. I think  you can also thin it with acetone or lacquer thinner.

I do not know about this brand of putty, but I suspect it will not be as smooth as Milliput. Anyway epoxy putty is probably better

kept for rather large reshaping jobs, for most gaps standard modeling putty is better. 

Personally I use CA glue most of the time to fill gaps, and CA accelerator applied with a toothpick. It sets instantly and hardens to a consistence very close to styrene, so it is easy to sand.

 

HTH,

 

Christian.

 

 

I'm talking about the parts of the canopy that you will be painting, is it okay to leave the canopy frames exposed when using lacquer primers?

 

Are all plastic cements by different brands the same? Also, whaddya think of the Tamiya epoxy putty?

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ok, I got it. I think it is ok to leave the canopy frame exposed. To be safe I would test it on a leftover canopy. 

Not all plastic cements are the same. The ones which are the most useful are the thin type, (Tamiya for example in the bottles with the green cap), you can look at some videos on Youtube to learn how to use it. Revell Contacta is also ok, but thicker.

 

Tamiya epoxy putty is quite similar to Milliput, it is not really meant  to fill gaps, but more for sculpting or modifying figures. It can also be rolled in very thin sheets to make tarps, seatbelts etc.

 

HTH,

 

Christian.

 

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spookily I have just started this kit too, my son bought it for me while he was a lad so I thought it was high time...

for filler I personally always use superglue, a reasonable quality one (the proper bottles of Tommy Walsh superglue that Poundland used to have were actually perfect but NOT the crappy little tubes),.  drop a couple of spots onto a surface and mix a tiny bit of talcum powder, mix to a paste, use as filler, dries really quickly, can be accelerated, sands and smooths like plastic, doesn't shrink, perfect I find.  hope this helps

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