Help Required - Resin Hawker Hunter F4

[albamac]

I got a reasonably cheap PJ Productions kit recently and it looks very nice with great DACO decals. I haven't built a resin kit before so would appreciate any help and tips. Many thanks.

albamac.........(frustrated Norseman) 

[upnorth]

Definitely wash all the resin and white metal components in a mild dish soap solution and maybe give a light scrub with an old, soft toothbrush in the tight spots of the parts to remove mold release residue.

 

Have a razor saw available for removing pour stubs from the parts as well as a variety of sanding sticks for parts clean up.

 

Also do a ton of test fitting before committing cement to resin. Resin needs to be stuck together with either two part epoxy glue or cyanoacrylate (super) glue; as such, you really have to make sure you have everything lined up correctly before gluing.

 

Use epoxy glue on white metal parts, if they have lead content it may react badly with super glue over time. 

 

Those are the basics for resin kits.

 

For the specific kit you're building, you may want to contact forum member, Darren Rhodes as he has built the PJ Hunter F.5 and could give you some useful insights:

 

 

[RobertF]

In addition to Upnorth's tips, take some safety precautions when working resin. Resin dust is not good for your health (the same goes for lots of other things when consumed in too large amounts, but that's a different topic)

 

- after having cleansed and dried the resin, put a layer of primer on it before you do anything else.

- when cutting resin, try and use a wetted saw/knife to prevent the dust from drifting into the air. Keeping the resin part on a wet towel also helps

- when sanding resin, always use wet sandpaper and lots of water. It may get a bit messy, but that's better than having the mess in your lungs..

- use medical gloves when handling (non-primed) resin

- wear a spraying mask when cutting/sawing resin.

 

I know, it's all a bit inconvenient and maybe even a little far-fetched, but modeling should be - and usually is - a fun hobby and not a health hazard. (there are enough of those around as it is; paints, thinners etc.)

 

Enjoy your modelling project!

 

Robert

 

 

[albamac]

Hi Guys,

Many thanks for your tips on building resin kits, the advice being invaluable to a semi-novice, especially from the safety angle which is much appreciated. I feel that I have the confidence now to tackle this new form of kit to me and I have even washed the parts in warm soapy water. Once again thanks for the great advice and just need some decent weather so I can lay down some primer on the parts. I'm not allowed to spray in the house as my nearest and dearest would not be amused and I want a quiet life ha ha, although I do have a modelling shed but spray  outside in a quiet corner of the garden. Cheers

 

albamac.........(ftrustrated Norseman)

Edited April 24, 2017 by albamac
correction

[RobertF]

You're welcome, Albamac!

 

So you're now waiting for decent weather? You're in the UK, aren't you? You must be a very patient man....

 

Robert

(now ducking for cover)

[Work In Progress]

If it's your first time I recommend a five minute epoxy for airframe construction. It's slow enough to giive you adjustment time, fast enough not to require clamping for hours,

[John R]

If you are using thin CA get yourself some form of applicator than only dispenses small amounts at a time. My first effort was the PJ F6 and I tried dribbling it from the bottle (it was only tiny hole. Ha!) into the joint. It went all over the model and between my fingers and the model with obvious result. Oh how we laughed! Fortunately I had thought ahead and had some acetone handy. It is wise to have some solvent/dedebonder available.  You might want to consider using thin plastic gloves.

If you can, use small amounts of glue to tack bits together then it is easier to separate them if things are wrong.

John