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Eduard Tiffy 1/48 (with a twist)


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It's been a very long time since I did a WIP thread on any forum. About time I addressed that.
So I'll be building the new Eduard 'Tiffy' boxing of the Hasegawa Typhoon.

Just to add a little interest, I've opted to go for a desert livery with the addition of Techmod decals.
 

Hopefully I can make a fair stab at this and keep a few entertained.

 

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Everything washed and drying prior to kicking off!

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Ok, let's go.

First up we are dealing with the instrument panel. The kit part needs to have the raised detail removed to take the photoetch replacement. So it's out with the old Dremel...

 

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Original Kit part

 

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Stop! Dremel time!

 

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No going back now...

 

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Photoetch for the interior 

 

While the instrument panel is drying (black sprayed) it's onto the replacement etch seat...

 

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Note the size difference between the kit part and Eduard's etch replacement...yowzers!! :huh:

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There you are! Saw the pictures in FB and were looking in vain for this thread until now. I got those techmod decals too, and a Red Roo Air filter to go with it.

Will watch with much interest!

I must say that the replacement seat looks very nice!

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6_1.jpg

 

Seat done with lovely etched belts.

 

7_1.jpg

 

Cockpit internal details beginning to come together

 

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Sidewall control panel in mid-construction

 

 

Edited by 3Chordwonder
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Hello 3C,

Gooood job, be carefull on fuselage halves.

Complete each fusealge half separately, that way there will just be the spine to rectify.

If you add the 2 half spine on the already buttoned up fuselage as per the instructions , Ooooh dear, we are in trouble...

There is a serious risk of a step on the sides.

I also used the techmod, nice decals, easy, no troubles.

I used a resin seat from Ultracast.

Keep carry on the fine work.

Sincerely.

Corsaircorp

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Cockpit starting to come together. Remember the large PE seat? Well here it is in place:

 

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The scale looks spot on. Dread to think what the tiny original seat would have looked like.

 

Next some more work on the instrument panel. 

 

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My old eyes and fingers struggle with the PE levers so I discarded them and scratch built some from stretched sprue with a blob of Glue & Glaze on top. Think I got it about right. 

 

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6 hours ago, corsaircorp said:

Hello 3C,

Gooood job, be carefull on fuselage halves.

Complete each fusealge half separately, that way there will just be the spine to rectify.

If you add the 2 half spine on the already buttoned up fuselage as per the instructions , Ooooh dear, we are in trouble...

There is a serious risk of a step on the sides.

I also used the techmod, nice decals, easy, no troubles.

I used a resin seat from Ultracast.

Keep carry on the fine work.

Sincerely.

Corsaircorp

 

I second that!

I built this (well the hasegawa box of it) and didn't pay much attention to the fuselage plugs and never did mange to really recitify the situation....left with a fair step on one side :(

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5 hours ago, Lawzer said:

 

I second that!

I built this (well the hasegawa box of it) and didn't pay much attention to the fuselage plugs and never did mange to really recitify the situation....left with a fair step on one side :(

Hello Dears,

And alas, the same is well for their P-40 too.

So now whatever the brand, I make the 2 complete fuse halves separately.

Mine is also the original Hase, will be soon in RFI.

She is in weathering workshop for this while:pilot:

Have a nice day, 2 evening work days and I'LL BE BACK !

Styrene addicted Corsaircorp

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Today's update:

 

17.jpg

 

Radiator coated with Alclad Aluminium prior to wash.

 

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Rear view after wash with MIG Night Black

 

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Internal stuff going in

 

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Buttoned up fuselage...and relax.

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More work on my days off (I'm lucky as my shifts give me 4 days on the spin to work on stuff)

 

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RAF Mid-Stone base coat (Hataka Acrylics)

 

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Dark Earth camo (Blutac method used for demarcation)

 

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Underside sprayed Azure Blue

 

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Gloss coated and decalled, with some oil panel lines in. This version had no large fuselage numbers identifying it, just the small serial numbers at the rear. 

 

 

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