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shood23

Remaking parts

Right so before I start to explain what I want to do please note I'm am an absolute novice when it comes to this and if they made a dummies guide to do book I would be first to buy it. 

 

Right so let me explain what I would like some help with. I have a hrm resin engine set for Fujimis porsche 917s and I would like to try and replicate some of the bigger parts for personal use on the 3 other 917s I have in my stash. So basically my question is how should I go about it and what do I need to do it? 

 

Links to products would be useful. 

 

Thanks

 

Shaun 

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Posted (edited)

Shaun,

Excellent idea! And goo on ya for having a go.

There's a topic on the WIP page by Capri-Schorsce about moulding a BMW M3 body. Not quite the scale you'll be working in but maybe worth a look?

Looks like plenty of help on the inter web...

how to mould resin model car parts

 

And a book...

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Secrets-Expert-Making-Resin-Casting/dp/1492294942

 

 

The 917 looks great, I'm looking forward to seeing a grid full of your 917s!

 

Edited by injidup
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Better yet, don't steal others' work by recasting bits. Buy more engines from HRM and support a fellow modeller and a small garage company. Alternatively, scratchbuild your own engines.

 

Now I'll wait for the firestorm...

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I think the problem is getting hold of the HRM engines.

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Thanks injidup. 

 

And Rob at no point would I bash you for having an opinion as what you said is normally the way I would do things but as has been pointed out these engine sets are getting very very hard to find and when you want/need 4 sets it would be near on impossible to do as hrm don't make them anymore and when they did they were only made in small numbers compared to how many Fujimi 917s have been made. It took me 6-9 months just to find one guy that had on there website as available and then another few months for him to actually have it and send it. And then there is the cost factor as for the 1 set I have it cost me just over £60, now considering the actual Fujimi kits are only £17-22 from hiroboy.com I think my other half would kill me if I spent almost £250 on resin bits for £70 worth of kits. Like I said in my opening post as well is that this is all for personal use and I don't have any intention to try and remake others work for profit. Basically it would be easier to learn how remake just the bigger parts from the set than wait for the number of sets I need to become avaliable that is if they become available again. 

 

Shaun

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Posted (edited)

If the parts are for personal use , no big deal.

I suggest something smaller to begin your casting adventure , the learning curve can be a little expensive and brutally unforgiving.

I went into it and spent some dough tryna get some good casts , best intentions and alla that. I did get it sorted and moved to metal casting as well , now I have a real good idea on how to make molds and the physical properties of mold silicone , resin casting material and metal casting materials.

There is a 'Metal Casting Work ' thread on this site , may be worth a look.

Good luck!

Edited by krow113

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Thanks krow. 

 

So I think I have got the best advice I can to start this thanks to those who replied and who inboxed me I will be starting this soon hopefully and if it goes well then my 917s should have so good details added 

 

Shaun

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I'd love to have a go at this, I could have moulded the front end I scratch built for my 956, plus the rear frame I'm building for the Fujimi 917K.

 

Unfortunately I don't have the space at all.

 

Be interesting to watch how you get on.

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I"m waiting to see how you tackle the vacuum chamber, but I won't hold my breath!;) :D Best of luck with your endeavors.

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Mb I won't be using a vacuum chamber just careful mixing and gravity. 

 

But to update this i have some silicone rubber and polyurethane resin on the way so expect some test parts to me made soon. 

 

Shaun 

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I get the best results by having a sort of sprue run so that the resin is fed down first underneath the item and then rises up into the area of item being cast with a vent at the top to allow all the air out.  This always gives the most consistent results especially in terms of minimising trapped bubbles.

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That sounds interesting, got any pics?

 

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On 3/22/2017 at 4:57 PM, shood23 said:

But to update this i have some silicone rubber and polyurethane resin on the way so expect some test parts to me made soon. 

 

Shaun 

What yer gonna make first? 

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1 hour ago, mbdesignart said:

What yer gonna make first? 

 

I'm not sure, I was think something with a simple shape like the rear wing plane of a porsche 956/962 as if it works nicely first time I always have a use for that kind of thing. 

 

Shaun 

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Right so I have been testing with some success and some bits not so successful  (mainly due to me being too quick).

 

I started like I said above with a porsche wing and this was the note so successful part as I made the mould fine, poured the resin fine but then took it out of the mould too soon and it was still very soft. It said on the resin pots to leave 30-40 minutes but I have found it works a lot better with at least 8-10 hours. I carried on though instead of giving up and here's some of my first casts. 

20170401_083753_zpsjjwjzdst.jpg

 

20170401_083803_zpsbgkfmjsb.jpg

 

The 2 above were from just a pour in a leave kind of mould, the one below was from my first attempt at a split mould with top and bottom half then squeezed togther as drying 

20170401_083945_zps0umnt9oj.jpg

 

There are a couple of little bits that need sorting or filling but I know where I went wrong and can sort that in my next go.

 

Shaun 

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