Airfix Ferrari 250LM 1/32

[Eric Mc]

Although I love my classic racing cars, it's ages since I built a model of one.

I started this one because my model club was holding a competition entitled "Civilian Vehicles".

It's fairly basic - as you might expect from a set of moulds that date back to 1967. I presume it was also available in Airfix's Slot Car series - which was their rival format to Scalextric.

 

Here's the finished model. The main area I'm disappointed with is that the roundels were on the thin side.

I replaced the kit wheels with better items designed for slot cars.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 19, 2017 by Eric Mc

[Gerrardandrews]

That's the best I've seen of that kit made up, like the wheels.

I had a go a few years ago, still about in a shoe box somewhere, not one of my best,

So hats of to you, great looking model.

[Eric Mc]

Thank you very much. I have heard that the Aitfix 1/32 cars can be, lets say, not up to Tamiya standards. But, as long as I was careful and pre-fitted everything first, it went together fairly well.

[Alan R]

I built this maybe 45 - 50 years ago. Brings back memories, that does!

I wouldn't mind having another go, along with the Ford 3-litre GT

 

Cheers, Alan.

[sennapod]

I too am currently making one of these; thought I'd be a one-off with a model everyone had forgotten about, but you've beaten me too it. Like buses, you wait for one, and.......

 

the fit on mine is not as good as yours, esp at the front of the nose where there is a noticeable step between upper and lower body parts.am presently wondering if filler,or sanding, is the answer.

 

i may have to post a WIP, or maybe just wait until finished and put in RFI.

 

BTW for Alan R - The Ford 3 litre IS presently available in the shops.

Edited March 25, 2017 by sennapod
Typos

[Eric Mc]

The fit at the front wasn't great. Because I had prepainted the upper and lower parts of the body shell, that precluded using filler and sanding.

 

What I did instead was apply a number of layers of white PVA glue to the gap. After each application I swiped the excess away with a moist finer. I then  waited for each application to dry and applied a second and then a third. By then most of the gap had gone. I then carefully oversprayed the fixed joint.

 

It's not perfect but it's a lot better than it was.

 

Next time I build one of these AIrfix 1/32 I'll be more prepared for such issues.

 

Here's a better picture of the model taken at my local club meeting a couple of weeks ago.

 

 

 

[rs2man]

Can you tell me where you acquired the wheels ?

 

John Green

Nantwich , Cheshire