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    • Mike

      PhotoBucket are no longer permitting 3rd party hosting   01/07/17

      As most of you are now painfully aware, Photobucket (PB) are stopping/have stopped allowing their members to link their accumulated years of photos into forums and the like, which they call 3rd party linking.  You can give them a non-refundable $399 a year to allow links, but I doubt that many will be rushing to take them up on that offer.  If you've previously paid them for the Pro account, it looks like you've got until your renewal to find another place to host your files, but you too will be subject to this ban unless you fork over a lot of cash.   PB seem to be making a concerted move to another type of customer, having been the butt of much displeasure over the years of a constantly worsening user interface, sloth and advertising pop-ups, with the result that they clearly don't give a hoot about the free members anymore.  If you don't have web space included in your internet package, you need to start looking for another photo host, but choose carefully, as some may follow suit and ditch their "free" members at some point.  The lesson there is keep local backups on your hard drive of everything you upload, so you can walk away if the same thing happens.   There's a thread on the subject here, so please use that to curse them, look for solutions or generall grouse about their mental capacity.   Not a nice situation for the forum users that hosted all their photos there, and there will now be a host of useless threads that relied heavily on photos from PB, but as there's not much we can do other than petition for a more equitable solution, I suggest we make the best of what we have and move on.  One thing is for certain.  It won't win them any friends, but they may not care at this point.    Mike.
larchiefeng

Pocher F40 with Autograph transkit upgrade challenge build

190 posts in this topic

Yeah, I get that but, I'm no where near close to these kinds of details yet. I still haven't done most of the mods needed to the inner wheels yet. I still need to remove the lug nuts, drill out the center hole, trim the width of the inner wheel to clear the calipers, etc. What you are seeing is just a mock up, to see if I like the direction I'm going in. The tires are the MMC replacements so they are much softer and easier to work with. In addition to the Autograph transkit, I have also purchased a set of MMC tires, a Tremonia PE interior upgrade set, the RC wheels shown, a quart of automotive single stage acrylic urethane with reducer, additional brass bolts from MMC and of course the used assembled Pocher F-40. So, this is more than just an Autograph transkit upgrade addition on my F-40 build. Rich's is a build of a new in the box Pocher plus the transkit so, they will be different animals when both get going full time.  

We need to encourage him to finish his big Pocher Volvo truck so, he can join me here and make it more interesting.

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Bloomin PB are sure ruining a lot of people's viewing enjoyment.

They must be one of the most hated hosting sites out there at the moment.

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Some very nice work going on here Wayne....especially like the wheels :)

 

You and I have discussed the viability of using RC parts....a good source for a lot of different parts in the Pocher arena....even if only used as a 'pattern' for mods ;)

 

Have to agree with Mr C regards those tyre treads!

 

What plans do you have regarding weathering?

 

Respect

 

Ron

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To be honest with you, I haven't given weathering much thought yet. Right now, it's about all that I can do to carve out enough time and energy to just work on it. I will say this though, weathering is my absolute weakest part of my modeling skill set. So, before I even attempt any form of weathering, I would have to do quite a bit of practice. And, even then I'm not sure; just being honest here. I suppose that this subject is a conversation we will probably be having in the future! Lol:D

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1 hour ago, larchiefeng said:

 So, before I even attempt any form of weathering, I would have to do quite a bit of practice. And, even then I'm not sure; just being honest here. I suppose that this subject is a conversation we will probably be having in the future! Lol:D

To be clear Wayne, I'm not advocating a mud-spattered, drippy mess! Simply a track car appearance of many heat cycles and track and rubber films. For sure you are many steps away from those concerns so not preaching you to concentrate on them now. If you feel it's a weak point for you (I don't - I know you're a skilled learner) why not confer with our resident 'patina master' UK Ron?  His track experience and finishing mastery creates 'reality' before our eyes. :Tasty:

 

Glad we'll be having any conversation about this ambitious and complex project in future - means you'll be hard at work for us for months!  -and so will Rich! :P

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Realy nice wheels! The spokes might be too narrow for the power of the engine? Any way I prefer the possibility to see the details if your brakes etc!

 

Very nice!

 

8-) 

 

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Unfortunately you seem to have become a victim of the Photobucket monster. Hopefully you'll find a way to host your pictures elsewhere...

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Major, that, was my thought as well but, like you said, I like the idea of being able to see the detail. 

Mr. C and Ron, I'm sure we will have more than one conversation about weathering down the road.

KP and Roy, yeah the PB thing will have an impact on the first part of thread if I don't go back and edit all of the pictures and replace them with images from Postimage. I still have a while left on my subscription so, no immediate danger of losing the photos. The Mercedes just has too many to go back and edit and since it's over I doubt anyone really cares any longer. The TR is fairly short and is still an active build but, just barely so, I might edit those just so when I get back to it they're still there.

Anyway, here's the engine disassembly and some preliminary work on the drilling the holes for the new hardware. As I have stated before, this was a built model when I bought to use as the donor car for the upgrade. So, everything has to be taken apart and cleaned. This is what I have to start with and some of the parts were actually glued on so, disassembly was tricky on a few parts.

 

IMG_6502.jpg

IMG_6504.jpg

IMG_6505.jpg

 

Here you see a section of the plenum circled in red. This is a part that I wound up breaking and the only reason that I took it off is because there is a PE part that goes between the the two sections. In retrospect, I should have probably left it alone, oh well.

 

IMG_6503.jpgIMG_6525.jpg

 

Everything spread out and ready to be drilled and cleaned up for paint and reassembly. The intake tubes circled in green are being replaced with resin parts so, I didn't worry too much about breaking them when taking the engine apart.

 

IMG_6526.jpg

 

The beginning of drilling the holes for the replacement hardware. I decided to drill through the top of the molded on bolt heads and if they got started wrong I could always cut them off and start over. Just my way of giving myself two chances of drilling a fairly straight hole in case of a major screw up.  Almost all of the molded on bolt heads still need to be cut off here in these pictures.

 

IMG_6527.jpg

IMG_6529.jpg

IMG_6530.jpg

 

Here's an example of some of the glue I had to get through to take this section apart

 

IMG_6528.jpg

 

After going back and forth on whether or not to use steel/nickel plated bolts or brass, I've decided that I like the brass better. This is my own personal preference but, I do believe that the original transkits actually had brass hardware in them. I know that the transkit for the Testarossa engine has all brass hardware and I rather liked it so that's the reason.

 

Here are a couple of bags of 1 mm bolts from MMC that, I'm using. I need a total of five bags to do the engine and transmission.

 

IMG_6531.jpg

 

Just placing some bolts in the holes to test and see if the holes are big enough for the bolts.

 

IMG_6532.jpg

 

Well it's time to run up to the post office. I just got a message telling me that the rest of my bolts order has arrive so, now I can continue on.

 

 

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Looking good Wayne. Drilling those holes are a real PIA.  Getting the bolts, washers and nuts on are fiddly too.  the brass will look good and add nice contrast to the whole engine.

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Posted (edited)

Yeah, they're kind of pain but, it's not really too bad. I have all of the holes drilled and the old molded on nuts removed. There's not anything too exciting with the drilled holes that, isn't already shown here. I have to sit down with the instruction book tomorrow and carefully go through what attaches the where on the engine and transmission before I permanently attach any of the bolts. I see various plates and brackets that attach and support things that hang on areas that a bolt will go through. As much as I would like to paint most of the engine and trans as a unit, I don't think that's going to be possible. There's too many additional details to be added to do it that way so, I'm going to just have to paint all the parts separately and take my time going through all the reference photos, DVD and printed instructions and try and figure out a sequence. Or, maybe I can just go back to the frame and wait for you to get back on the engine and copy you! Lol :rage:

 

Oh, I managed to remove the annoying PB ransom demand from my signature :party::penguin:

Edited by larchiefeng
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Haha that is a potential plan! I am working feverishly to get the Volvo done... 

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Boy...would I love to get my hands on that engine ;)

 

Nice work mate :)

 

Ron

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You are talking about drilling the holes, @larchiefeng. An old colleague, who was building the Aventador, was recommended to use a soldering iron and melt down the screws.

 

Do you (or other here) have any experience or comments about this recommendation?

 

8-)

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From personal experience....using a soldering iron is a recipe for disaster....yes it will 'melt' down the moulded nut...and also anything around it!...more so when dealing with old plastic such as Pocher.

 

The benefit of drilling them out is using the moulded part as a guide to get the correct position for the replacement bolt.

 

Ron

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Rich, work faster! 

Major, the old melt method for the bolts and screws are mainly used for stripped out plastic on old Pocher plastic. Melting the screw in rethreads the hole. It's not really a good idea for doing what I'm doing for a lot of reasons, among those are as Ron points out. 

I did have an update to post here but, I forgot to put the pictures into Postimage. I've been working on setting up a blog for hosting my pictures and using it for doing third party hosting. I've loaded the pictures there as well but, I am still working on it. I will post some pictures of the painted engine and transaxle tomorrow with what I have finished. I'm also starting the first pieces of the PE that mount on this section. I'm on steps 10-14 of the transkit right now.

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