dfqweofekwpeweiop4 Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 After the debacle with the Eduard Spitfire, I decided to go back and finish some models from the 'shelf of doom' before starting anything else. My choice was to try to finish my Academy 1/72 Helldiver that I started last year. It was stalled as I had run out of Glossy Sea Blue but I recently bought Vallejo's revamped WW2 USN aircraft paint set, so I thought it would be an easy one to finish. I had a mini disaster trying to fit the bombs in the open bomb bay as the bomb crutch disintegrated and then I accidently knocked out the forward bomb bay bulkhead while trying to open up the holes for the repaired bomb crutch. I had to leave the bulkhead off as I would have to open up the fuselage so I stuck the bombs in and called that part done. The big problem is a decal problem, not the usual Academy decal issue but a whole new one for me. After the usual several coats of gloss varnish, the decals went on, better than normal for Academy decals and I sealed them after leaving them overnight, with a further coat of gloss varnish before starting with the matt varnish. The decals haven't silvered but one of the tail numbers half peeled off while I was using the Matt varnish. Any ideas why anybody? Also has anyone got the Academy 1/72 Helldiver (original boxing) and has the number 80 decals for the tail spare? It's a bit of an annoying situation as it's a pretty decent kit to build and I'd really like to complete it! thanks Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Mike, that is why I've become a total convert to using Klear as a bedding agent for decals, I dilute it a bit (30-40% approx) to give more working time than neat Klear but still enough Klear left to suck it down & hold it as it drys. Its a method that just works really well. Still necessary to gloss coat properly as I found with some stencil decals on an academy P-47 where I hadn't glossed under them. Steve. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck1945 Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Mike I have the Academy kit and you are welcome to the decal you need. But ... I wont be able to access the kit till next week and I am on the other side of the pond. If you don't get a quicker response, I'll dig them out when I get to my stash. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre B Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Mmm... Did you use hot water för those decals? What I understand Academy decals need hot water to get stucked to the kit... Cheers / André 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfqweofekwpeweiop4 Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Thanks folks, the water was quite warm to start with but it's just the one decal on the tail that's part peeled off, the rest of the decals behaved fine for Academy decals. I always try to look out for Academy kits with Cartograf decals, I sold an older B-29 Bock's Car to get the re-issue with Cartograf decals for example. Chuck - that would be very good of you and I'd be happy to return the favour if it comes to that. thanks Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tbolt Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Mike I can send you the decal and I'm in the UK so it will be easier than Chuck doing it. Just PM me with your address if you want it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfqweofekwpeweiop4 Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 10 hours ago, Tbolt said: Mike I can send you the decal and I'm in the UK so it will be easier than Chuck doing it. Just PM me with your address if you want it. That would be awesome. thanks Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dogsbody Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 On 17/03/2017 at 3:59 PM, stevehnz said: Mike, that is why I've become a total convert to using Klear as a bedding agent for decals, I dilute it a bit (30-40% approx) to give more working time than neat Klear but still enough Klear left to suck it down & hold it as it drys. Its a method that just works really well. Still necessary to gloss coat properly as I found with some stencil decals on an academy P-47 where I hadn't glossed under them. Steve. I know the answer is probably easy to find, but what do you use to dilute the Klear? Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevehnz Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Hi Chris, sorry, should've said, just water. I tripped over this on another forum, I think ARC just after I started back into modelling, promptly stole the other halfs Klear from under the bench & decal wise I've never looked back. I reckon its necessary to dilute a bit, otherwise the Klear does tend to grab very quickly & firmly but flooding the decals with plenty more (enough, not silly amounts) & working under the edges can normally lift it up again. I've never had to strip one off that I've not been able to reposition, yet. I use a cheap nylon (?) bristled #4 brush which is slightly stiffish, to move my decals around, lift under the edge & repo as necessary. If I've glossed with Klear, normally one coat seems to be enough, brushed on, I've never had to use any of the set & sol combos. Doing a Ju52 might change that though. Steve. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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