rob Lyttle Posted April 1, 2017 Author Share Posted April 1, 2017 Hi Chally , my method is a bit more abrasive and any grain on the surface of the metal is gone by the time I've worked it over. Having said that, I do buff up the surface in different directions and generate quite a bit of variation in that way. But it's hard to apply that method precisely to the edges of panels. Are you of the opinion that the variable appearance of metal panels is created by this reflection of light thing, rather than differences in the metal (which seems inconceivable to me - consistency of material would be critical wouldn't it?) There's obvious exceptions especially in wing panels, but I think most of it is down to reflection characteristics, so we're on the right track here.....! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Tackled a few more items on the list. One of the things Kittyhawk gotta pasting for with this kit was the taillight done in solid Grey. So I thought I'd better make an effort with some clear sprue... Needs a little bit of finishing off on top, but I think it'll be OK. Airbrakes are settled in without glue incase I change my mind, but I think I'm going for the closed position. Ailerons and flaps are sorted and on, I'm eyeing up with envy the neat yellow lines on screen and canopy that some have done brilliantly!! I've never pulled this off successfully before, but half of me wants to try for it. What I do have is a good supply of yellow transfer Wondering if I can do it in strips of decal. I'm thinking if it went wrong, it would be easier to undo than a poor paint job. That sounds like a faint hearted approach to the task, though, doesn't it! Hmmmm... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 John Darlington I hope you don't mind! I don't know how else to link to your RFI. Voodoo 101B But this is the kind of job I'm talking about . I need to aspire ....! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71chally Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Decal sounds a good idea to me and will make a nice neat edge and demarcation from the silver. The one thing that can let that approach down though is if the decal colour is apparent from the inside. Saying that the colour may be visible both sides on the real thing? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 But definitely looks like no yellow round the armoured screen, which makes sense. You wouldn't be hacking your way through THAT in a hurry to do a rescue! I'll have a practice run with strips of waterslide, see how it goes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 I hate to say this but the A/C series didn't have slime lights - ever. When they returned to CONUS they were converted to G/H recce birds, cammoed and slime lights fitted. It's another of KH's errors I pointed out when the kit was still a CAD drawing. If you want an accurate bird, they have to go. The surrounds of the side screen transparancies on the A/C are white, not yellow. this was taken early in their career, the fin colours underwent 2 revisions before they were retired in '65. Some were shiny, others not. Down to the crew chief, until Robin Olds took over. He inspired pride in his unit, and the aircraft looked the part as a result. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
71chally Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 2 hours ago, rob Lyttle said: But definitely looks like no yellow round the armoured screen, which makes sense. You wouldn't be hacking your way through THAT in a hurry to do a rescue! I don't think they were a 'rescue' chop through marking, more a perspex to canopy frame substance, quite common across various types at the time 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Bentwater, many thanks for the info and great photo. Don't hesitate to pass me information and knowledge as required. What I mean is, you don't need to hate to say, I'm always glad to pick up the gen. Now, is it worth piling into the fuselage and tail fin to remove them? Lemme ponder. The picture is saying:- white on the side screens and nothing on the canopy, may have to postpone the yellow strip waterslides! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted April 3, 2017 Author Share Posted April 3, 2017 Faint Heart never..... One florescent light fitting removed from the fin. It feels OK by fingertip and I reckon the panels can be replated. The midsection lights are on a bigger single panel - I think I can get the surface down and do the whole panel again. I notice there's none on the nose but of course KH would supply another moulding for the 101B nose, but everybody gets the same midsection and fin.(!) On the other hand, I did get a bunch of missiles ( and nowhere to put them....) Yeah, reckon I can take them out. Currently looking for some spare white waterslide in my box. 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 The fix on the tailfin is done. Look.... no striplight ! Top panel done in one piece, wrapped around the leading edge Tidy up edges, find the rivets lines and details, i knocked my little tail light off during the process, but it has been retrieved and will be re-applied. If I'd been going for the all-over decor on the fin I could probably have just applied the decal over the hole in the foil, but I'm planning to go for the two -flash type design, probably blue 446 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 OK, I think I've sorted the erroneous striplight situation with more of the same, and a couple of new panels amidships. She looks better without them, I reckon. As I was giving these last two lights a bit of a grinding i was thinking I was a bit lucky with them positioned lengthways along a curved surface, or invert , to use the proper term. It allowed me to work the surface of the light right down to the level of the surrounding foil without wrecking all around it. Usually a hole in the foil will show its edges through another layer, but in this case the polystyrene surface could blend to the hole perfectly. Result! I am having a go at redoing the gun blisters and muzzles too. Now, where did I put that clear taillight......?😠 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted April 4, 2017 Author Share Posted April 4, 2017 On 03/04/2017 at 19:47, bentwaters81tfw said: It's another of KH's errors I pointed out when the kit was still a CAD drawing. If you want an accurate bird, they have to go. Thanks for the heads up on this. If you got a minute, Bentwater, what's the deal with the line around the nose cone just where it joins the nmf? I'm seeing a narrow ring, sometimes it looks bronze-ish and sometimes less visible. Any info? I'm judging, by your chosen handle, that THIS plane is very much your specialist subject ! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted April 4, 2017 Share Posted April 4, 2017 There is no rhyme nor reason that I can make out. It is not specific to either the A or the C model, and not all airframes have it. It extends to the B model as well, and the recce birds.. https://jetpilotoverseas.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/frankmurray0002.jpg http://www.skytamer.com/samples/McDonnell_F-101B-115-MC_Voodoo_AF_59-418.jpg And these image makes it appear as part of the radome rather than the fuselage. http://www.airports-worldwide.com/img/w/eielson-f101.jpg Then you have this: http://static.panoramio.com/photos/large/48492510.jpg Where it seems to be a forward bulkhead. As always, use your reference photos. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted April 10, 2017 Author Share Posted April 10, 2017 Well, an excellent Saturday at the Poole Vikings annual, and a couple of small purchases. Searched high and low for a Monogram century series Voodoo among the many vendors and clearing out boxes, but to no avail. But I did pick up the Frog RF101C in 1/72, and a matchbox PR9 Canberra. So, well stocked up. Less impressive was my attempts with transfers on this one. I Know 😠! Low battery.... but I'll tell you about it dreckly. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted April 11, 2017 Author Share Posted April 11, 2017 (edited) I set about the tail décor to see if it could be salvaged. I think we're OK. One saving grace with the kit is that there are 4 options for tail decorations! I was going for the blue 2flash scheme originally, but blew that straight away. I cut one flash out, dipped it, took the curling paper out and flopped it thoughtless on the mat. It flopped out quite flat, and left 4 or5 splits right across the blue flashes. I had a go at assembling the bits on the tail, and it gradually deteriorated past the point of no return. Soooo.... Option 2- yellow -flash. The blue one I had cut to separate the rudder piece from the main fin design, so not to repeat any of that dismal process, I did this decal in one piece. I didn't dip, but brushed water on the front of the transfer. I'm thinking water soaking the back of the paper makes it expand causing it to curl like a bi-metallic strip. So, don't soak the back, soak the front untI the decal starts to release. It didn't curl and it didn't split, and I got it on as in the previous picture😠 This evening I cut the rudder join and took the rudder off, and administration of first aid settled it down round the edges. I need to change the airframe number underside to. 472 if it looks like it's successful. Otherwise, I still got 2 goes left on the transfer sheet! Also took a shot at the walkway panels on top of the intakes. Having been scared by tender decals, I cut these dry to make the sharp angle where the wings meet the fuselage, and applied them in 2 parts. I didn't fancy trying to make the decal conform to that shape with a dab of tissue! Edited April 11, 2017 by rob Lyttle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted April 11, 2017 Share Posted April 11, 2017 (edited) 20 hours ago, rob Lyttle said: I need to change the airframe number underside to. 472 if it looks like it's successful. Another 'success' of KittyHawk was the incorrect decals. The 'Buzz' numbers on the Voodoo are 'FBxxx' not 'FRxxx'. Edited April 12, 2017 by bentwaters81tfw Brainfart 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 I'm guessing you mean these guys. What were they doing? Multitasking!?? The 3view drawings are very atmospheric and Arty, but just about useless for placing reference. I did the fuselage red line band with airfix red line from the B 57 Canberra kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 Progress, bit by bit. Let's face it - we're ALL in that boat! Still working on the gun ports, and there's a couple of tiny antennas to go on the nose last minute. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted April 17, 2017 Author Share Posted April 17, 2017 Well I'm just about there. Other than trying to enhance the appearance of the engine cans with some effects of heat and dirt, I think I'm done on this If I get a chance to photograph her in sun/ daylight, and they turn out OK, I'll do a little RFI. If you been trying to pick up what I do with foil for a nmf airframe, I hope I've helped a bit. I've got a serious change of scale coming up, with the little airfix P51D Smaller than a fuel tank, but looking like a very nice kit. Brilliant fit so far. Going for the metal finish of course... no surprise there. Cheers all 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob Lyttle Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 "....McDonnell test pilot Robert C. Little made the maiden flight of the first F-101A in California on September 29, 1954. It appears to have been the first aircraft ever to go supersonic on its initial sortie (a feat Little was unable to replicate when he made the first F4H-1 Phantom II flight on May 27, 1958). " Looks like my name is even MORE famous-er Not only the Australian Top Ace of WW1..... now this guy!!! No wonder I like planes! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now