Any Comeback?

[sailorboy61]

Tamiya's decals on their Vb kit.

 

Spot of bother what oh!

 

Have started decalling my Vb, and as i usually do, used a spot of X20a as the setter.  Being clumsy, think this time I've over done it and ended up with 'scorch marks'.

Just wondering if anyone knows possible come backs from here other than repainting?

 

Its AK paint, couple of coats of the 'new' floor care clear stuff, decal and X20a.  As can be seen only in places, the whole wing decals were treated the same?

 

Any ideas appreciated. 

 

[Greenshirt]

If it's frosted, I typically apply a light coat of Future/Klear and leave it for a day. 

 

It looks to me tho at the wing root the green has dissolved and grey is showing through. Certainly the decal is in the wrong place. I'd lightly sand it away, repaint and reapply new decals. 

[sailorboy61]

1 hour ago, Greenshirt said:

If it's frosted, I typically apply a light coat of Future/Klear and leave it for a day. 

 

It looks to me tho at the wing root the green has dissolved and grey is showing through. Certainly the decal is in the wrong place. I'd lightly sand it away, repaint and reapply new decals. 

 

 

Cheers, already tried the coat of clear, unfortunately without success - back to the paint shop! 

[colin]

X-20a is alcohol based so will eat through most paints especially acrylics as looks to have happend here, only way is try and disguise it by weathering or a repaint.

Try micro sol, it's not as aggresive as x20a, you still have to be careful not to spread it around passed the decals, but multiple applications seem to set even Tamiya decals down eventually I've found

[stevehnz]

Use your Clear coat as a bedding agent for your decals too, its all I ever use & it works great. I dilute mine a bit 30-40% & float the decal onto a small pool of it, use a stiffish brush (#4?) to position decal, wick the excess away with the corner of a paper towel & roll it down with a Q-tip. Try it on a smaller less conspicuous decal first till you've sussed it. X20a is a thinner & I would expect paint needs to be very cured before using it as you are though I have heard of this before.

Steve.

[sailorboy61]

Thanks all. I know the X20a is strong stuff, at least where decals ore concerned, but always found it does a better/quicker job the microsol, and it's so much harder to spill than the microsol lol sure I use more cleaning my mat than for decals.

Had hoped the clear coats would have protected to paint, but having had a good look again, think it's definitely the paint that has gone. Those decals sacrificed to the sander, repainted and the no walk lines will have to be masked and painted, probably the better option in any case!!