giemme Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 13 hours ago, keefr22 said: I really admire your consistency of updates Giorgio, it's great to see such good modelling progress every Monday! Keith Cheers Keith, thank you! Ttrying to keep up, you know 13 hours ago, The Spadgent said: Wonderful stuff G. That attention to detain is sublime. John Thanks John, glad you like it 4 hours ago, Fritag said: Haven't you got the scribing gizmo for concave areas Giorgio? I actually have plenty of stainless steel scrap pieces from work which have rounded ends, suitable for the job, so I'm getting along with those at the mo Thanks for your comment, always appreciated Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 19 hours ago, giemme said: Thanks G! I see your point, but I was actually thinking of trying to assemble the biggest part of the piping/cabling on the wings, laying on this structure: I was also thinking of replacing the front part with a scratch built one, 'cause I'd like to put in a real pipe, instead of that chunky piece of rounded plastic you see there; I was also thinking along the line of assembling part of the structure, paint it and then insert pre-painted segments of wire or whatever I end up to use to represent the piping/cabling ... this all in theory, because I first need to complete the dry fit of the bay inserting all the wheel struts and actuators etc. BTW, intrigued by one of Di Terlizzi's build, I'm also considering scratch building the wheel bay covers for the C205 ... Ciao Your plan makes a lot of sense. Regarding the front part I'd replace completely with something resembling the end of the DB601 engine, IIRC that pipe is the supercharger duct but that's just me being captured by some superdetailing fever... On my 1/72 model I had indeed considered this option but then decided to keep this for a future build with the engine exposed. In the end it didn't make much difference because little was visible, in a 1/48 model things may differ though. Adding the bay covers may be a good idea, they would require some work but in the end they would also avoid detailing all the bays. And would look pretty cool... IIRC the shape is shown in one of the links I sent you, shouldn't be too hard to make a mould for either vacforming or plunge-moulding 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 1 hour ago, Giorgio N said: IIRC the shape is shown in one of the links I sent you I recall having seen them, but can't find where now. Do you remember which link was that, please? Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gene K Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 (edited) On 5/12/2017 at 8:58 AM, giemme said: I'm somewhat regretting I've embarked in this double build: I think I need to focus on one model at a time As much as I hate to admit it, Giorgio, I agree ... I'm getting confused (easy to do). Why not stop one here, finish the other, strum a few songs, shoot a few arrows, and come back refreshed to the first? Gene K Edited May 16, 2017 by Gene K 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 1 hour ago, Gene K said: ..strum a few songs, shoot a few arrows, I haven't been doing both things for quite a while now, actually. I think I'll take your advice of stopping one, only maybe not right now - there are still a few things I think I can handle in parallel. Now my fingers are hitching for metal strings, but I'm just too tired tonight... tomorrow maybe Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share Posted May 19, 2017 (edited) Little update before the weekend. More work on the C202 wings; a bit of primer showed that the spent shell cases ejection apertures needed more attention: More CA applied, than again sanding and polishing. Here they are, together with the wing top parts I did cut away the wing guns and sanded flat; all the hatches had been filled in with PPP, using a spatula; after a few minutes, I removed the excess with a moist microfiber towel, and used a nail polishing stick to refine them. Little enhancement in the wheel bay area: the two triangular plates were drilled out according to ref pics: Tail wheel front fairing: I ended up using Tamiya Tape for curves to complete it, cutting a thin strip and running it around the fairing. I think I'll mark the riveting once the primer is on. I decided to leave the back fairing as it is, as I have no conclusive pictures showing any sort of lips. Still thinking what to do with the plumbing/cabling in the main wheel well, although @Giorgio N instilled this crazy idea in me of a fake engine back part .... Anyway, while thinking of that, I worked on the supercharger intake, which in this early production type had no sand filter; so I glued the two kit parts with Tamiya Green Cap which left some work to do on the join. I drilled a hole inside the intake, to give some depth Then with the following tools and material (plastic strip from yogurt cup ) I did cut out a small disc, to represent the intake shutter which will be positioned this way After some sanding and polishing of the front part of the intake, I glued it in position with Tamiya Green Cap Left there to set overnight. That's all for the day; any comments welcome. Happy WE everybody! Ciao Edited May 19, 2017 by giemme 14 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fritag Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 More impressive detail work Giorgio. Whenever I've tried PPP to fill panel lines etc. I can see residual slight dents after priming. But it may be that I've over-polished the surface before priming and in the process polished back the PPP tiny bit - it is quite soft after all. Don't suppose you'll be so clumsy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share Posted May 19, 2017 11 minutes ago, Fritag said: More impressive detail work Giorgio. Whenever I've tried PPP to fill panel lines etc. I can see residual slight dents after priming. But it may be that I've over-polished the surface before priming and in the process polished back the PPP tiny bit - it is quite soft after all. Don't suppose you'll be so clumsy Thanks Steve Yes you need to go easy on PPP; a couple of the hatches needed a second pass, as when polishing them I removed a bit of the putty. I did check with a dark wash after that, and it didn't show any residual seams. Will see when the primer goes on Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 That butterfly valve looks amazing Giorgio, another great detail. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share Posted May 19, 2017 5 minutes ago, Cookenbacher said: That butterfly valve looks amazing Giorgio, another great detail. Cheers Cookie, thanks Butterfly valve, that's the name Surprisingly (or not ?) it's the exact translation of the Italian name for it Ciao 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 Details, details, Giemme you are always looking out for ways to improve the kit. Great work mate, nice touches. Simon. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 19, 2017 Author Share Posted May 19, 2017 27 minutes ago, Spookytooth said: Details, details, Giemme you are always looking out for ways to improve the kit. Great work mate, nice touches. Simon. Cheers Simon, thanks Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davmarx Posted May 19, 2017 Share Posted May 19, 2017 Great super-detailing job, Giorgio. I love your updates... Ciao. Davide 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 20, 2017 Author Share Posted May 20, 2017 11 hours ago, davmarx said: Great super-detailing job, Giorgio. I love your updates... Ciao. Davide Grazie Davide, glad you like it! Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted May 20, 2017 Share Posted May 20, 2017 Butterfly valve!!!!! Amazing. the other work is also great. johnny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteo44 Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Great super-detailing job!! Compliments 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 (edited) On 20/5/2017 at 20:30, The Spadgent said: Butterfly valve!!!!! Amazing. the other work is also great. johnny Thanks Johnny! To be honest, the butterfly valve is something I got from a few other Macchi's builds I saw on Internet; I thought it would add a nice realistic touch 12 hours ago, matteo44 said: Great super-detailing job!! Compliments Grazie Matteo! WE update, everybody! Actually, not much time for modelling, as on Saturday I had to take care of my yard, and yesterday it was a day like this: with BBQ for lunch (WARNING: explicit food pic to follow) and later in the afternoon, my middle daughter Confirmation, dinner out with family etc So in the remaining time, I worked on the C202 main wheel bay. A dry fit of the kit parts shows an already quite busy appearance: It also showed that fitting the wheel leg actuator arms later in the build is going to give me a few headaches, and I'm strongly considering putting them in at this stage. The downside is that they are very fragile, and I'm very likely to break them while handling the model for painting. Very undecided here Anyway: since I wanted to replace the piping showed here with some actual tubes, I thought I'd batter scratch build this part rather than modifying it. This kit part isn't supposed to represent a firewall, which was simply not there on the C202 and C205. It should be the back of the DB601 engine, the big pipe being the supercharger intake duct. So i used some Tamiya tape to make a template of it: and the idea is to fit this piece of copper pipe in the scratch built part Template roughly cut and taped to a 0.5 thickness styrene sheet some refining needed then I marked the holes and slots and after drilling/carving them out, I test fitted it added the supercharger intake duct (it's only dry fit, at the mo) Next: replacing this triangular bit with something more like the real deal out comes the Dremel chopping bit and here is the replacement, made from 0.5 styrene sheet The plumbing inside the main wheel bay is like this: Quite intricate, ain't it? So I started with the main piping: 1mm welding wire with a very thin copper wire wrapped around and held in place with CA ( @PlaStix trick ) receiving hole drilled into the back part of the wheel well, now I need to cut it to size, bend it and dry fit in position. Repeat for all the piping ... AAaargh! That's it for the day, comments welcome Ciao Edited May 22, 2017 by giemme 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Now that you've started in the wheel wells there's no turning back ! Of course as this is ceremonies season, there's always going to be something like a confirmation keeping a modeller away from his bench... The legs actuators can indeed be hard to fit with all the pipes in place. My advice is to always check and double check for fit every time you add one new cable or pipe. The large green pipes exiting from the main spar can also interfere with the structural members. Regarding these parts, it helps to drill holes in the spar so that they can exit straight from it. For anyone curious about what they are, these are the ducts going from the underbelly radiator to the engine for the cooling fluid. Speaking of pipes, and taking advantage of the great picture of the wheel wells posted above, the various colours for the pipes had this meaning: green: engine cooling fluids brown: lubricants yellow: fuel blue: air white: oxygen Not only the pipes were in colour but also a number of accessories related to the various systems (for example an oil filter casing would have been brown) and the controls related to the systems. On a different subject, love the pictures of your backyard ! With summer finally starting to show in Northern Italy, that's going to be the best place to spend time in the next few months 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Hope Giorgio doesn't mind if I add some more trivia about the Mc.202/205... In the pictures above the main spar is shown represented as a flat part with raised details. This detail illustrates one of the main strengths and weaknesses of the Castoldi designed fighters: these aircrafts were of metal construction but parts of their structure was based on the same principles applied to earlier wooden machines. The wings in particular made wide use of truss structural members, of which the main spar is a clear example (the raised details in the Hasegawa part represent this truss). The result of using these techniques was that for their size these fighters were quite heavy, a serious problem considering that most engines used in WW2 Italy lacked power. At the same time this construction resulted in very robust structures. The contemporary Reggiane fighters were structurally much more advanced, with a proper intepretation of the then most modern concepts of monocoque construction... yet many Italian pilots, used to the almost indestructible Macchis, considered them to be too delicate for their taste.. That the flying qualities of the Mc.202 and 205 were praised by everyone, even with such heavy structures, is a testament to the aerodynamic finesse of these types. It should also be said that none of these fighters excelled at high altitude, something that wasn't a problem during the war over North Africa. When it came the time of dealing with USAAF B-17s and B-24s however the limitations of the Macchis design became evident. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 57 minutes ago, Giorgio N said: The large green pipes exiting from the main spar can also interfere with the structural members. That's my main concern. I'm also thinking of scratch building the actuator arms from brass pipe and/or steel wire, so that I can glue them in place at this stage and not fear of breaking them off later in the build ... 43 minutes ago, Giorgio N said: Hope Giorgio doesn't mind if I add some more trivia about the Mc.202/205... I certainly don't mind! Feel free to add any info that might be useful for this build or for future ones 1 hour ago, Giorgio N said: On a different subject, love the pictures of your backyard ! With summer finally starting to show in Northern Italy, that's going to be the best place to spend time in the next few months Especially when I take the top cover off my swimming pool Ciao 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corsaircorp Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 On 20/04/2017 at 14:10, Biggles87 said: Hi Giorgio, yes I've seen the Frecce Tricolor many times. I used to be involved with a large air display called International Air Tattoo where they were regulars, through from G91s to MB339s. We were always amused that their first display for the Flying Control Comittee was always done by the book to gain permission to continue, then on each consecutive display day they got lower and closer until on the last day it usually broke all the rules. I was also greatly impressed by two Italian test pilots at Farnborough in a 1970s display who had apparently been competing with each other all week. On the day I was there the first pilot landed off a loop then the second one landed off a barrel roll, something that would not be allowed these days I'm afraid. More magic on the cockpit components. Cheers John Yup John, I agree with a tiny reserve, I was in Ramstein AB on the 28th of August 1988, only one of them broke the rules. We know the result, I met them again in Coksijde years later (first time they were welcomed back outside of Italy) And they agree with my conclusions, it was the selfishness of just one man ! Otherwise they are very nice guy, making a very dangerous job ! And we had a memorable party in Coksijde, closing a painfull door for me. Wonderfull job on these 2, Giemme, keep carry on. sincerely. corsaircorp 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Giorgio N Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 30 minutes ago, giemme said: That's my main concern. I'm also thinking of scratch building the actuator arms from brass pipe and/or steel wire, so that I can glue them in place at this stage and not fear of breaking them off later in the build ... Good idea ! I had to do the same on the 1/72 kit, IIRC the radiator pipes go around the actuators very tightly. At least in your kit Hasegawa has represented the actuators accurately, in the 72 kit they are very short 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corsaircorp Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 Hello Giorgio, Still a pleasure to catch up on your WIP, I really enjoy your attention to details Good job on the piping and I really enjoyed seeing your yard. And the BBQ Very nice job. Sincerely. Corsaircorp 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
giemme Posted May 22, 2017 Author Share Posted May 22, 2017 55 minutes ago, corsaircorp said: Wonderfull job on these 2, Giemme, keep carry on. sincerely. corsaircorp Cheers corsaircorp, thank you! 24 minutes ago, Giorgio N said: Good idea ! I had to do the same on the 1/72 kit, IIRC the radiator pipes go around the actuators very tightly. At least in your kit Hasegawa has represented the actuators accurately, in the 72 kit they are very short Thanks G. However, there's a downside to this solution too: the wheel legs fit is quite loose, and the kit actuators help in that respect as they allow some margin to play with the positioning, also because they can bend a bit. If I chose to replace them with stiffer material, I'm going to have to be very precise in terms of dimensions... Ciao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
72linerlover Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 2 hours ago, giemme said: Cheers corsaircorp, thank you! Thanks G. However, there's a downside to this solution too: the wheel legs fit is quite loose, and the kit actuators help in that respect as they allow some margin to play with the positioning, also because they can bend a bit. If I chose to replace them with stiffer material, I'm going to have to be very precise in terms of dimensions... Ciao Hi Giorgio, let me jump in for a little while. You don't need to be very precise. You can keep pipe and rod only plugged and glue each part after the gear leg is in place So you can adjust in lengtht; than a drop of chano between the rod an the pipe. I did the same on the model you saw. I'll tell you how much I appreciate this build when we'll meet in Cremona, right? Bye Euge 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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