Plumbum Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 I needed putty as my Tamiya White ran out. The gent at my LHS says this is the newest craze. Supposedly getting raved reviews, water clean up. So does anyone know how good it is? Does it wet sand well? Smooth finish? Guess I'll find out.---John perfect plastic putty 1 by jvandeu53, on Flickr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Laidlaw Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 It is very good. I've found it better than Vallejo's water-based putty, it smooths well with a wet finger or cotton bud, and sands very nicely. Just make sure it has a "grippy" surface to hang on to, or it will break loose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bentwaters81tfw Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Only pitfall is wastage. After cleaning the nozzle out, you lose a lot of product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fewr9fkr9595 Posted February 20, 2017 Share Posted February 20, 2017 Doesn't wet sand, water dissolves it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plumbum Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 Thanks, in the bin it goes. I wet sand, no use for this than. Oh well.---John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beard Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Don't chuck it in the bin (if you have, get it out of the bin). If you leave it for a few minutes it's easily smoothed with a damp finger or cotton bud so there's normally no need to sand. If you do need to sand, fine emery paper or coarse Micromesh works pretty well. The one thing to chuck out is the nozzle... use a toothpick to apply in small areas or a more suitable tool (I use a scapel) in larger areas. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob G Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 I use PPP as a last application filler, for canopies and all those areas you can't otherwise get to with sandpaper. Once it's set, a gentle brushing with a wet paintbrush or ear bud sorts things out pronto. Also great for those areas where one doesn't want to damage detail, such as wing root seams. If you need to fill before doing more work, a quick overcoat of undercoat (hmm) will protect it from any further washing. For application, I have a 5ml syringe and 18ga needle with the point ground off, just like the maker will sell you for £5 each. I got half a dozen sets for $5 and made my own. Drop a couple of ml in the syringe, attach the needle and away you go. If left unused for a week or so, the needle clogs up, but a couple of minutes with a bit of brass rod and water soon sorts that out, and the syringe contents seem to stay in good shape - I'm still using my original fill, which was done at least 6 months ago (I don't use much.) Don't chuck it - used in a way that suits its strengths, it's a brilliant product. Note that it's a gap filler, not a strucural putty - it's not Tamiya filler or Milliput, so you can't make shapes with it (you can, but they won't be very strong.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaurieS Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Chucked mine into the bin also. There are land tip sites full of the stuff. You do not need to buy it. Last I heard they were using it to paint the lines on football pitches. Laurie PS Vallejo one is good for fiddly bits. A wet finger does a good job. But no good in large dollops or where used in a structural joint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesP Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 The most annoying thing is the plastic tube as it doesn't collapse as the filler gets used up and so fills with air. Unless you are using it by the bucketful you'll end up with most of it going off in the tube. It is far from perfect though works well for some jobs but not enough for me to buy more 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwh Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Used it once after a recommendation, not by a hobby shop by the way but a modeller, it finished up in the bin. I recommend Revell Plasto as it sets hard,can be wet sanded and if used sparingly you do not lose surface detail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sobby_23 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 I use both, Perfect Plastic Putty and Revell Plasto. Just depends on the job. Tend to use PPP when I need to fill a gap that will not require sanding, whereas I'll use Plasto if I'm dealing with major seam problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Fleming Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 The only think I have found PPP or Vallejo putty any use of ris the fine seams you get at joints between plates on vehicles/AFVs where the ability to smooth away with a wet finger/cotton bud and then carve/chip away any excess is useful Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRealMrEd Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 As said above, PPP is not for every filling need. But, for those hard to reach areas that you can't or don't want to sand that aren't structural, it's the greatest show on earth! Here is a photo of the wing to nacelle seam on my B-45 wing: Note that the PPP on either end of the nacelle WAS sanded. After filling most of the gap with stretched sprue, a layer of PPP was shot on through an extra small CA bottle tip, and smoothed with a wet Q-tip. Zero sanding was required for the PPP. For real filling I use either Milliput or Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty (automotive). Ed 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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