clive_t Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Like that a lot, very neat finish 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted March 7, 2017 Author Share Posted March 7, 2017 (edited) Hi All Flushed with the 'success' of the Hurricane, I pressed on with the Fairy Battle. I wanted to advance things a little, and as I felt I couldn't thin the paint further I decided to take the plunge and invest in a 0.5mm needle/nozzle set (from eBay), as queried by cocky05d I must say, I'm not usually one for hyperbole, but OMG! A REVELATION! Best. £6. Ever! The starboard side is started with the 0.3mm, pumping the trigger to get splodges of paint, while the rest is covered by the 0.5mm replacement. Same pressure, same distance, same paint mix! I would have stopped when I realised the paint was far too thin for the 0.5mm, but the sensation of the paint flowing out in a constant stream was intoxicating. I cleaned it all off, mixed a new batch of 50/50 paint/water and gave it a couple of thin coats I also did the canopy in black, as the dark earth was visible as a base coat on the Hurricane It still had that curious texture, but spraying was a joy! Anyhoo, giddy with my new-found machine, I covered the underside A quick coat of Pledge led me to another revelation:- the 0.5mm is fine for the plastic acrylic tubs, but is WAY too much for the Pledge! As the airbrush is stripped down and given a deep clean between coats, it shouldn't be an issue to swap between needle sizes? Good. Only put the 0.5mm in for the Starter Set paints. Then came the crashing back to Earth, the MASKING Cocktail stick working overtime... First coat of Dark Earth (with the reinstalled 0.5mm...) Second... ... and fourth A point to note here:- the 0.3mm has a gradual taper towards the tip allowing good control of paint delivery, whereas the 0.5mm has quite an abrupt taper, so it feels like the paint is either off or on. I guess it's just a matter of practice (and the end stop?) to get a comfortable coverage? Once that had dried, I gave it the usual coat of Pledge to seal it against the Dark Green . So this is where I am at the moment Stay tuned for more blundering about All observations and comments welcome Cheers Steve Edited March 7, 2017 by ProfSparks 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clive_t Posted March 7, 2017 Share Posted March 7, 2017 Wow, great progress! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 By George he's cracked it! I'd still recommend giving the model a coat of primer before spraying it. This helps the paint stick on, and reduces the "puddling" effect you're getting with the first coat. Marvellous progress though, keep it up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clive_t Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Just to clarify, this 0.5mm needle/nozzle get-up what you have just acquired, is this an additional bit of kit for the same air brush? Or is it a new air brush entire? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted March 9, 2017 Author Share Posted March 9, 2017 Hi All On 08/03/2017 at 6:38 AM, Bigdave22014 said: By George he's cracked it! I'd still recommend giving the model a coat of primer before spraying it. This helps the paint stick on, and reduces the "puddling" effect you're getting with the first coat. Marvellous progress though, keep it up. It certainly feels like a big step in the right direction! Priming is on the experimental things to do list On 08/03/2017 at 8:48 AM, clive_t said: Just to clarify, this 0.5mm needle/nozzle get-up what you have just acquired, is this an additional bit of kit for the same air brush? Or is it a new air brush entire? Yup, it's just the needle and nozzle set put in the original brush. I was initially wary about airbrushing because of the expense, the range and variety of equipment, range and variety of paints, all those other cleaners and whatnot bits and pieces, etc etc, before even getting into paint thinning and air pressure. However, this has now opened my eyes to the possibilities without having to invest in anything more than a basic cheap spray kit and a larger nozzle for the starter paints. I recommend getting a set and a cheap kit, and just going for it! Mix the paint 50/50 as a start and keep the pressure on one light lit, half a tub of mixed paint did four coats on the Hurricane and the Battle. After spraying, I run some water through the brush to give it a rinse out, then blast through a couple of squirts of Mr Muscle I then unscrew the nozzle cap, nozzle, and remove the needle from the back, and put them in a shot glass of Mr Muscle for a bit, then rinse them through with a bit water and let them dry off ready for the next coat I do this over a plastic tub as the nozzle is teeny weeny Off to try something new with the masking. Comments and suggestions welcome Cheers Steve 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clive_t Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 Thanks, I shall look into this 0.5mm nozzle trick. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Hi All Well, the new masking technique and I didn't really get on. Suffice is to say that I ended up covered with more Blu-Tak than the Fairy. Anyhoo, moving on, I returned to the generic tape cutouts and had done with it I was just about to spray the Dark Green with the 0.5mm setup, when I had a brainwave! Why not put the 0.3mm needle in with the 0.5mm nozzle, and see what happens? 0.3mm on the left, 0.5mm on the right It does extend out the nozzle quite a bit and even slightly past the guard, so care must be taken when putting back in the holster. But as I've found, a slightly bent needle doesn't affect the spray too much Being mindful of the ridges caused by too thick coats, I only applied two thin ones. Removing the top masks a couple of problem areas. Then the lower mask came off uh-oh... Not to worry, this is what all this is all about, experimenting, and a bit of patching in makes it less obvious. The canopy masks came off, and this is where I am at the moment Only the decals and a couple of bits left to add, then it's on to the next chapter:- Undercoating/Priming I've a cunning plan... Comments, suggestions and counselling welcome Cheers Steve 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevej60 Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 What a thoroughly enjoyable read this thread has been Steve(and no doubt will continue to be). I love the fact you have taken the setback's in your stride and worked to put them right rather than heading for the bin(guilty).I use a basic airbrush same as your's so have been through a similar learning curve I think your next step after this project should be getting a hold of better paint's (I use Tamiya) the difference you will find will be a revelation,another issue with these older raised panel lined/rivetted kits is they lend themselves to paint bleed more than newer molded recessed lined kit's(although this issue can still arise),Oh and finally let's pay tribute to the finish you have achieved so far on these very ancient Airfix kit's,great work! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 18, 2017 Share Posted March 18, 2017 Good stuff Steve - you're doing very well persevering with the Humbrol paints and the results are impressive; good job! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bordfunker Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Steve, great to see you making such good progress with your airbrushing! As a few others have said, switching to one of the better brands, I use Tamiya & Gunze paints, perhaps using Tamiya X-20A thinner and priming may well allow you to overcome some of the issue you've encountered to date, notably the paint lifting issue. For masking I always use Tamiya tape for the edges, as this seals better than normal DIY tape, and then just fill in the rest with DIY tape. I find this provides a neater edge, that often doesn't require retouching, without wasting relatively expensive Tamiya tape where you don't need to. Best of luck Karl 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinnie Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Hi, Steve. I'm following this thread with interest as I keep thinking about getting an airbrush. I'm very impressed with your results, but tell me, do you have an extractor or wear a mask while spraying? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigdave22014 Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Great progress Steve. Keep experimenting with the airbrush. Eventus Stultorum Magister. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 Well done Steve. You are clearly a natural at airbrushed finishes. I took ages to get as far as you have so swiftly progressed. But primer is a must. It does much more than help the paint stick when dry. It gives a uniform finish which makes detecting construction errors easier. It fills some tiny cracks all on its own. It covers areas of different colours such as putty or photo etched parts so that they don't show through the top coats. It also holds the paint when it's wet, giving you more freedom to spray obliquely without making runs. I use Alclad primer, thinned with lacquer thinner from the car shop. It really burns into the surface and stays there. The fumes are horrible though so you must must must have very good ventilation. (The fumes are toxic, can get you high and then unconscious, and if you fill a room with enough are theoretically explosive). Acrylic primer such such as Vallejo doesn't seem to work so well for me. Degreasing the parts with alcohol before applying primer helps a bit. Ive recently been told about Tamiya primer which is an acrylic primer and should be tenacious as well as relatively non-toxic. I'm looking forward to seeing your work continue to develop. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 19, 2017 Share Posted March 19, 2017 I'm using Stynylrez primer from Badger now, also now re-branded by Ultimate. It's acrylic, doesn't smell, goes on well and self-levels. It also dries really quickly. Recommended! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cookenbacher Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 That's amazing airbrushing Prof. I found Humbrol acrylics to be extremely difficult to spray, and I think many would agree. You will feel positively spoiled when you try Vallejo or Lifecolor. A primer will really help with paint lift problems, water based paints don't stick to plastic very well. Another thing that's great about water based Stynylrez/Ultimate is that it can be sanded just like a smelly lacquer primer can (other water based primers just peel when sanded). 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted March 20, 2017 Author Share Posted March 20, 2017 Hi All Thanks for all the positive comments and suggestions, must admit to being slightly taken aback by how this is turning out! 17 hours ago, Bigdave22014 said: Great progress Steve. Keep experimenting with the airbrush. Eventus Stultorum Magister. Usus magister est optimus 19 hours ago, Vinnie said: Hi, Steve. I'm following this thread with interest as I keep thinking about getting an airbrush. I'm very impressed with your results, but tell me, do you have an extractor or wear a mask while spraying? Hi Vinnie, I don't use mask or extractor (although I probably should) as I'm not regularly spraying and the room is well ventilated. This is my setup, a big old cardboard box to catch the overspray with some spotlights on With regard to getting an airbrush, DO IT! Get the little on that comes in a small briefcase, get a 0.5mm nozzle and needle set from fleaBay for £6, and you're good to go. I got the multi pack kits because they're old moulds that I wouldn't feel too bad about bashing together for target practice, and they come with many paints, so I wouldn't feel like every drop was precious. Doubt if I'd be this relaxed and gung-ho if I had built an expensive kit with a load of PE, resin and detailing, trying to use a £100 airbrush to shoot £2 a shade paint onto it. No doubt in a couple of years when I've got the hang of all this I might end up doing just that... But in the mean time, I'm doggedly going to stick with the little plastic pots (that I have quite a few of) and see how I get on. Think of it as airbrushing with trainer wheels on. By time I've done a couple more kits this way, then I'll start moving up the paint quality ladder. Anyhoo, here's the state of play got some sticky-out and sticky-on bits done. Odd how these decals seem more resilient to Micro Sol than the Hurricane, yet they came from the same sheet. Tried all the pricking with a pin and squeezing down with a cotton bud etc, but they just pop back up. Never mind, another story. Nearly there. Comments and pointers welcome Cheers Steve 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Try a piece of cotton wool or a cotton bud with very hot water on those recalcitrant decals, melt them on! This project of yours is working out so well and for exactly the reason you give. I've been airbrushing for years but I'm always nervous and over cautious. It's because I'm using expensive gear on models on which I've spent lots of time and money. I put off the painting for as long as possible! I will follow your lead and bang together some of the old tat from my stash and then just have a playtime spraytime until I'm comfortable with it. Thanks for the inspiration! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 6 hours ago, ProfSparks said: No doubt in a couple of years when I've got the hang of all this... Somehow Steve I don't think it'll be that long! Looking good, especially considering the paint! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clive_t Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Nice work, I am enjoying this voyage of discovery about all things airbrush! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malpaso Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 (edited) 5 hours ago, per ardua ad ostentationem said: I will follow your lead and bang together some of the old tat from my stash and then just have a playtime spraytime until I'm comfortable with it. Thanks for the inspiration! I have gone the other way. An Eduard 1/72 Spitfire is my first airbrush job. The airbrush and compressor are cheapy chinese under 50 quid, bought to see if I like airbrushing. Although no doubt a higher quality airbrush might be better, or more likely easier or more consistent, I'd rather learn disassembly skills on something less critical, and the painting achieved is amazing compared to my brushing. Main benefits is how thin the paint covering is compared to brushing, so the tiny Eduard details remain visible, even though I thinned well when using the hairy stick. Number one lesson is that getting the paint thinning correct is critical - whether for a cheap or expensive airbrush. Cheers Will Edited March 20, 2017 by malpaso Spelling 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horatio Gruntfuttock Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 I think you have achieved a great result for a first go at spraying a model. My only suggestions are :- 1. use an undercoat/primer - I swear by Tamiya's white and grey rattle packs - one coat from 25-30cms does the trick but sit the tin in warm water for a few minutes first. 2. a day or so after decalling, give the whole model a coat of Tamiya matte or semi-matte clear, again from 30cm with a warmed tin. You will need to mask the clear bits again, or alternatively don't remove the masking from the colour spray time. I use enamels, principally Humbrol and Xtracolour but ModelMaster as well and Mr Tamiya's products are completely compatible with them. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrianMF Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 The Fairey Battle is looking great. Although I spent a few seconds with the picture thinking "funny looking Defiant"... You are tempting me to resume my airbrush experiments. I too bought a cheap unit, but quickly packed it away as a bad job! Regards, Adrian 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Christer A Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 What a great read of an airbrushing journey! Very inspirational and I immediately remember my first steps in this manner some 15 years ago where I started with a rubbish airbrush and a spraycan of compressed air. My test were also using Humbrol but actually enamel and some good old thinner for wall painting... As a precaution my mate and I went down to the bike storage in the apartment house where I lived, in order not to spread the fumes far and wide inside. Well, the paint hit the target all right, but the fumes from the thinner lingered for days! But I was stunned by the result! One could actually see all panel lines that otherwise got lost under all the paint... A few days later I ditched that airbrush and started to save up for a better one, and a real compressor and haven't looked back since. Now, I break out the airbrush instead of the paintbrush! One thing to keep in mind when doing all these masking is that the base plastic needs to be thoroughly clean before the first coat of anything. Use your MR Muscle to do that, it should be sufficient. Remember to let it dry before you start to paint! BR Christer 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ProfSparks Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 Hi All Here we are at the last push on this one! Got the wheels on This is before a final coat of Pledge, and you can see the couple of places where I've touched in the black it's still matt. Also quite prominent is the demarcation line between the black and the upper colours, quite pronounced. I guess that's not knowing when to stop, and spraying down into the border. Next one I'll endeavour to spray from the masking side, as it were, small steps... On 20/03/2017 at 2:01 PM, per ardua ad ostentationem said: Try a piece of cotton wool or a cotton bud with very hot water on those recalcitrant decals, melt them on! Hi Don, tried that and it worked, only for the next morning have them spring back up. I'm wondering if the circumference gripped and dried first, then as the rest dried it stretched over the rivets. Decals are a whole other box of frogs. On 20/03/2017 at 9:07 PM, AdrianMF said: You are tempting me to resume my airbrush experiments. I too bought a cheap unit, but quickly packed it away as a bad job! Hi Adrian, your brushwork looks amazing! If mine had ever been that good I would never have tried airbrush experimenting in the first place. Your Blenheim is giving me the nerves as I've got that coming up next, and yours looks like a hard act to follow. Anyhoo, I'm calling this one done (note the ballooning decal) and here they are together Thanks for all your support, will be back soon with the subject I should have started with, undercoating! Cheers Steve 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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