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1/48 - Granville Brothers Aircraft Gee Bee R-1 & R-2 by Dora Wings & A&A Models - released - new A&A Models R-1/Z Mod. 1934


Homebee

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4 hours ago, Caerbannog said:

Looks like a great package though the fabric effect in the parts and build pics looks not convincing to me. I will probablby sand it down a bit.

+1

 

apparently, it looks good...

Edited by DIO
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2 hours ago, dora said:

I as a manufacturer can only know the wholesale price.
I can only predict the price of about 21 Euros in stores.

That's great, I assumed that it was going to be outside my price range, but I'm pleased to say that it isn't. I won't be at Telford, but I will be buying one at some point.

It's nice to see that some manufacturers are making new, unusual kits at a reasonable price. Thanks.:clap:

 

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4 hours ago, dora said:

I as a manufacturer can only know the wholesale price.
I can only predict the price of about 21 Euros in stores.

I plan to bring the first 50 pieces to the exhibition SMW 2017
If there is no force majeure, the model can be purchased at the stand at the manufacturer of Karaya.

I won't be there until Sunday. I hope there are some left.

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10 hours ago, Homebee said:

Fuselage texture is how to say... 

 

[...]

V.P.

...disappointing?! And the engine cowling seems also to be a candidate for some modelling techniques.

Nonetheless I'm still in for one 😊 

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In addition to the fabric problem already pointed out, the cowl has an exaggerated taper, even for the R-2 (which was reduced at the front because of the smaller Wasp Jr it

was fitted with for endurance racing). The canopy is also either too long (or too shallow) and the fillets between the lower surface of the wing and the landing gear are missing.

Most photos of the R-2 show it with a Smith propeller fitted, not the quasi-Hamilton-Standard shown.

 

These planes are extremely well documented, with good drawings produced by Harry Robinson and Bill Hannan, in addition to the very good Benjamin/Wolf reproduction of the R-2 and even more accurate R-1 repro in the New England Air Museum.  

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John Adams showed a better way of corrected over-scale fabric effects. Apply filler primer to the affected area. Once dry rub down until the ribs are bare. Repeat as needed.

IMHO the colour photo above suggests that it won't need too much work to correct.

Regarding the other issues I'm with dora. It's a much better starting point than anything else. I'd suspect that resin bits will be along from somewhere before too long.

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22 hours ago, dora said:

The hood for R1 you can see in the pictures.

Ashampoo_Snap_2017.04.24_21h12m50s_004.j Ashampoo_Snap_2017.04.24_21h13m49s_006.j Ashampoo_Snap_2017.04.24_21h14m17s_007.j
The shape for these parts is now manufactured. There will be another hood, another engine and other fairings of the landing gear.

DSC_0869.jpg DSC_0870.jpg

I have everything going well, I will be at the exhibition. Today I received etching and decals. Tomorrow I will take the printed box from the printing house.

Good luck and best wishes for your first kit venture Sir !  And I look forward to more releases from you.  Best regards Colin.

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<post removed - this isn't the place to advertise your wares>

Edited by Mike
Sales posts from traders aren't permitted outside of the traders area
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I would say that this is a new venture so give it a chance. I wasn't involved with the Gee Bee, but I have been advising on some other very interesting British projects and for some I am supplying the totally new drawings.

 

Obviously, except for the Vega Gull/ Proctor which is on the flyer, until Eugen (Dora Wings) mentions them I will not say what they are. For the project drawings I have had amazing access to the first three aircraft and particularly for the Proctor I've had the help of a restorer of 4 aircraft who has access to the only remaining works drawings which were found in Australia. I had to convert many of these drawings from fractional Imperial, via decimal Imperial to metric. 

 

I have passed on my thoughts about the R.1 stringers but if you want a relatively easy solution, try this.  Scrape along the stringers to reduce the height and thickness using a curved blade (not a straight one). Then mask any areas having detail you wish to preserve. Spray the stringers with a couple of coats of Halfords Yellow Primer /Filler.

When dry polish the entire surface with a piece of T shirt material soaked in Iso-propal Alcohol, Acrylic thinner, or I prefer Lighter fuel (don't breathe it in). This will subtly sag the area between the stringers. Repeat if necessary. Finally, give a quick waft of grey primer

 

Obviously early models finance later stuff and remember there is a learning curve.

 

John

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First photo after a couple of coats.

 

.

 

Second photo, after another couple of coats of primer filler and a light sanding down. If you run a finger over the surface it is faceted just like a fabric finish should be.

 

IMG_1340

 

Apart from waiting for the paint layers to dry, having dinner, coffee and a bit of Master Chef, several emails, there can't be twenty minutes work.

 

John

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