The Best 1/72 Scale F-100C I Can Build

[RidgeRunner]

You're a canny sort, Ed! . I did a similar thing - but opposite - with my Italeri RF-84F a while ago. As you will know, it is painfully wide in the cockpit area. It used an Airfix canopy after reducing the upper halves a little in the cockpit area. I then set the model with an open canopy to minimise any other differences - a trick of the eye

 

Martin

 

Edited February 13, 2017 by RidgeRunner

[TheRealMrEd]

Hi all,

 

While the fuse is working it's way through the sheet metal shop, I thought I would address another of the kit's concerns, and a concern of the entire 1/72 scale F-100 modeling community -- the lack of a suitable F-100C seat, which was, of course, just DETERMINED to be different from the D and F models.

 

I thought I would take a crack at something that might be useful to other modelers as well. First off, the ornery critter looks thusly:

 

 

After looking through my spares box (as well as a not inconsiderable number of kit boxes), I came up dry, so I decided to have a go at the Trumpet "seat" included with the kit:

 

 

This pic shows the kit's stock seat (laying upon the earlier picture), as well as the plastic rod I used in the next step:

 

In the next photo, you can see where I filed off the upper seat back corners, part of the headrest area, and as much of the seat side detail as possible:(left seat):

 

 

Then, I  used some bits of rod, glued with liquid cement, to approximate the tubular frame of the real thing. This process was complicated by the fact that the kit seat was so wide, it would barely fit into the Aires F-100D cockpit I decided to use, and the fact that anything below the consoles on the side would not be seen.

 

 

 

Then, a little more rod (remember the lower part wouldn't be seen, once kit seat was installed), and a crude boxy structure behind the headrest.

 

Below are shown the pieces that make up the box, as well as the re-shaped kit headrest:

 

The seat nows likes like this, when right side up:

 

 

Picture on the right, above shows the original kit seat, then modified kit seat, and last the unmodified Aired F-100D seat. I also added that characterizing upper loop of tubing behind the headrest. At this point, I have a pretty decent modified kit seat, that looks a little more like a proper "C" seat. The two major issues still remaining with this seat are 1) it's too wide (needs to be sectioned down the middle of the seat before doing any other additions); and 2) the armrests are in the "firing" positions -- not a good thing on the ground!

These could be fixed by carefully cutting them off and reattaching at the correct "stowed" position.

 

It was at this point that I decided to take a closer look at the Aires F-100D kit, and thought "hmmm...may have some possibilities! So, I began again, using THAT seat.

 

First, I glued to the back of the seat the part of the Trumpeter F-100 boarding ladder that was left, after I used the other parts on my B-45 build (RFI). Then, I added some more plastic rod, and this time, since the entire seat was more narrow, I could put the tubular framework on the more on the sides of the seat, and still make it fit: I also made another rough "box" to go behind the headrest.

 

 

I also had to fill the gap at the front of the seat cushion, add the bent solder wire part behind the headrest, and the PE seatbelts from the Trump kit, and now I have an even better looking F-100C seat. A added some scrap plastic foot rests. The only other  thing I should do is remove the seat safety pin pockets on either side of the seat back, as the "C" didn't have them there.

 

 

Not a perfect seat, but I'll stack it up against anyone else's 1/72 F-100C seat --- what no takers?

 

Seriously, the hardest part of modding this seat was the fact that is is resin. I have been have a lot of problems using CA lately, so these dissimilar materials are all glued together with 560 canopy cement, vs the usual CA or epoxy. It was much easier modding the kit seat earlier, because it was just gluing plastic stuff together.

 

I have just shown  two simple ways to get decent looking F-100C seats in 1/72 scale, so no more whining about aftermarket parts -- they're NOT coming -- in this scale at least! However, I have seen some beautiful ones in the larger, "unholy" scales, with the tube frame molded separately and all.

 

Now, go ye forth and model!

 

Ed

[Hamden]

 

Nice work on the seat it will look great under a coat of paint!

 

  Roger

[RidgeRunner]

Nice work, Ed

[TheRealMrEd]

Hi Martin,

 

You're one of the people I did this for; I remember your request before, for an aftermarket seat. This is how you might get there, instead..

 

Ed

[RidgeRunner]

Well, you're a gent and no ,mistake ;).... Actually impatience got the better of me and I used the Pavla D-model seat which, I know, isn't correct, but it looks the part. She's now all sealed down with a closed canopy. Today was weather the back end day!  My first ever use of Tamiya weathering powders. They are great!!

 

Keep p the good work!

 

Martin

 

[TheRealMrEd]

Hello again, everyone.

 

Today, it's back to the fuselage. Next we have a shot of the body work, continuing., using Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty. I have taken the preventative measure of adding strips of blue masking tape to the edges of the fuse spine, to reduce sanding collateral damage, and the Aires cockpit is not yet glued into it's final place. -- still trapped, but moveable.:

 

 

Shown below after more sanding and re-priming, with the hobby foam cockpit mask in place:

 

 

Definitely looks better with the wider fuse spine, I believe. Meanwhile, while the sanding filling, testing, etc. is going on we'll look at a few other bits:

 

First, the Trump wings. As I'm not adding any weapons to this build, I will be using stretched sprue to fill all the unneeded holes in the underside of the wings. Circled in red on the underside of the right wing are the holes for the center station fuel tank mounts, as well as the holes for the refueling probe. All others will be filled. EDIT:  The red arrow shows where the slat actuator nearest the fuse on both wings should be removed.  It was not there in real life.

 

 

Next, come the horizontal stabilizers. I removed the mounting tab on each one and drilled holes into the stabs to accept about 6mm of 1.5mm (1/16") brass tubing. Then a piece of aluminum tubing sized to accept the brass tubing was cut to the exact length needed to fit flush across the fuse body. I filled the stab mounting holes in the fuse with scrap plastic card, and when that was dry, sanded the area smooth. (Understand that on a BMF aircraft like this will be, "smooth" means sanded with several grit of sandpaper, ending with at least 4000 grit or finer!)  Next, I drilled out holes in the dead center of the patched fuse stab holes, and drilled a hole to accommodate the aluminum tubing, which will be glued into the fuse:

 

 

The tubing is glued from the inside, with 560 canopy glue, so as not to mess up the outside area.

 

 

Next back to the fuse, showing a tiny residue of silver "flash coat" left after polishing:

 

 

Here let me just state, for those who perhaps have yet done, but are thinking of doing a bare metal finish (BMF) model here is the way I would suggest (strongly) that you go about it:

1)   Fill and sand everything until you think it's right, then use a grey primer, whatever your favorite type (I used Alclad II Grey, because I KNOW it's compatible with everything else I'm going to use).

 

2) Repeat #1, until you just can't see any flaws.

 

3) When you are just positively certain that all flaws have been eliminated, shoot on a quick, very thin coat of silver something (I use an silver Alclad II shot very thin, but have used Testor's silver, or even a silver marker will work)

 

4) Fix all the flaws that suddenly appeared out of nowhere! repeat 1 - 3 as needed.

 

Seriously,"It AIN'T RIGHT UNTIL THE SILVER SAYS SO"! If a cat sneezed in the next province, it'll probably get SOMETHING on your model! This is why BMF are the toughest paint jobs to get right on the planet, and trust me, if you practice your entire life, you'll still be learning how to do it when you die. The only good thing is, the sooner you start trying, the better you'll get.

 

There's an old saying that is never truer than when doing a BMF finish -- "Some days you get the bear; some days the bear gets you...". Learn to live with it.

 

Now, for another quick detour, the next photo shows the piece that goes under the front windscreen from the Aires F-100D kit. Since our cockpit is now somewhat wider, we have to fix it. I sanded the bottom of the piece down to very thin, and the using CA adhesive, glued the piece to a piece of 10 thou card:

 

 

When dry, I trimmed the added car part to fit between the fuse sills as shown, and gued it into placed with liquid glue. When painted black, no one will be the wiser:

 

 

Now, back to the fuse. Time for a little paint shop action. Using several photos, I masked what I decided was the appropriate area for the heat-treated metal on the rear of the aircraft. I decided to begin here, because if I screw it up, it'll be easier to fix now, than later.  I started with a coat of MM Metalizer Buffing Titanium. On retrospect, I think it's a bit too dark, and should have used some Titanium with a little bit of a golden tint ( I think Alcad II makes some, but I'm using what I had laying about).

 

 

The next photo shows the addition of a little streaking with MM Metalizer Buffing Stainless Steel, for some slight variation:

 

 

Next a few streaks of Alclad II Copper (I would have used gold instead, but I had none).

 

 

I next added a little Metalizer Metallic Blue, but that didn't add much to the look. I eventually ended up using Model Master Acrylic Clear Red and Clear Blue, shot one at a time. Where the two colors overlaid, purple resulted, which was good. Lastly, I shot a thin mist of Alclad II aluminum (highly thinned) over the whole area, to sort of blend everything together.

 

 

I'm not totally happy with this, but not terribly displeased either. The problem is that while I have about seven or eight color pictures of this area on F-100's, no two are alike. Also, the only color shot of the aircraft I'm modeling shows that it appears to have fairly dark discolored metal, even though it was a highly-polished and well-groomed bird.This model does actually look better in person than it does in the pictures, so I guess I'll think about it a while. I may redo it or maybe not -- just can't make up my mind.

 

Ideas? Criticisms? Help?!!

 

Well that's it for now. Gonna go rest my  aching head whilst figuring how to proceed. Catch you all later.

 

Ed

Edited February 15, 2022 by TheRealMrEd

[RidgeRunner]

Hi Ed!

 

Progress! Very good. I had already gone the pivoting route for the tail. For the rear fuselage staining I used a first coat of Humbrol 191 and then used Tamiya weathering powders  and then a thin gloss cote before masking for my SEA camo. It was my first use of these

powders and they are great!  (Edit: I just realised I said all this before!)

Martin

 

..... Off to finish scribing my Airfix F-84F

Edited February 19, 2017 by RidgeRunner

[RidgeRunner]

Hi Ed!

 

We are racing to the line!

 

My 'C is now primed and I've done the rear end, as I described earlier. I am trying to get as close as I can to this:

 

 

I wont pretend that it is 100% but I'm getting there.

 

 

As you can see the paint is starting to go on. Just Humbrol 28 so far. I have added the worn/eroded tan paint using Humbrol 118 with a touch of white added. This machine was very sun bleached so I will do much the same for the two greens. After that I'll blow over some slightly lighter shades and then finish off with some Tamiya Weathering Powders. I wont have chance to do more for a day or two .. work beckons, sadly (.

 

Martin

[ROBOT]

1 hour ago, RidgeRunner said:

Hi Ed!

 

We are racing to the line!

 

My 'C is now primed and I've done the rear end, as I described earlier. I am trying to get as close as I can to this:

 

 

I wont pretend that it is 100% but I'm getting there.

 

 

As you can see the paint is starting to go on. Just Humbrol 28 so far. I have added the worn/eroded tan paint using Humbrol 118 with a touch of white added. This machine was very sun bleached so I will do much the same for the two greens. After that I'll blow over some slightly lighter shades and then finish off with some Tamiya Weathering Powders. I wont have chance to do more for a day or two .. work beckons, sadly (.

 

Martin

 

Hi Ed & Martin,

Your builds look very impressive, that is burnt-metall nirvana!

Looks ultra-realistic to me!! what will your main airframe colour be? SEA- Camo ?  ( yes please !)

Looking forward to your upcoming pics,

Olli

Edited February 22, 2017 by ROBOT

[RidgeRunner]

Hi Olli!

 

My 'C will be a Turk and will be in the SEA camouflage scheme. All the C's that entered Turkish service kept the paint they arrived with, with a few patches and just carried on flying. The image I have is of this machine sat while on exchange at Norvenich in the early 1970s.

 

If I get this one right my next challenge will be this:

 

 

My reason for this machine is that she was the first Sled that I ever saw, while in Danish service and at the Greenham Common show in 1974.

 

Thanks for the compliments about the burnt pipe. Let's see how she ends up! ;). I am not experienced at weathering so it is a bit of trial and error.

 

Martin

Edited February 22, 2017 by RidgeRunner
addition

[TheBaron]

I'm a sucker for a good 'Century Series' bird so astonished I missed this. Admirable rhinoplasty and other assorted fettlings Ed. Your research and attention to detail are a pleasure to wintess,  as always.

Tony

[rob Lyttle]

Guys I'm loving this🌟🌟🌟

A beautiful plane, being done to a tee.

I got an old revel-esci f100 in1/48 Thunderbird scheme (!) a few years ago and tried my best with it.... dumped the decor and done it in foil. But really not a good kit.

Your standard of work is waaaay beyond what I make, but might Inspire me to do another one!

Love watching this; well done!

[TheRealMrEd]

The burnt metal is looking good, Martin.

 

And thanks, Tony. Welcome aboard!

 

Rob, that is the only reason I'm doing these builds one grinding step at a time -- to encourage others to have another go, or to begin a model in the first place! The more you try, the better you become. I probably have an average of ten or so bad-to-indifferent models, for every pretty good one I have built. BUT, everything you do counts for experience points in the game of life. Thing is, you gotta PLAY!

 

Also, for general information, this "C" model will be built as a very shiny commander's a/c, probably "Triple Ziltch" or "Smokey Blue" (Lt Col George Laven's F-100C. The reason being is that there are not a lot of chances to to brightly colored USAF birds of the 50's, and let's face it, my BMF skills were not formerly up to the task. (They STILL may not be, but we shall see.) I only have two in the collection, and one is a Thunderbird's F-84G, that while shony, the bare metal is pretty much monotone.

 

See you again soon,

 

Ed

 

[RidgeRunner]

2 minutes ago, TheRealMrEd said:

 

 

2 minutes ago, TheRealMrEd said:

everything you do counts for experience points in the game of life. Thing is, you gotta PLAY!

 A great philosophy, Ed!

 

Yes, the pipes look okay - my learning for this build - and the tan went on today. The rest will need to wait until next week and beyond as I am grandson-sitting tomorrow!

 

M

[RidgeRunner]

Hi again Ed, which "Triple Ziltch" do you mean?the only one I'm aware of was a D-model. 

 

M

[rob Lyttle]

Thanks for that, Ed. I like your point of view!

That little seat, it's like a piece of jewellery - I keep reminding myself just how small it is. Boo'full.

[TheRealMrEd]

Right you are Martin, "Triple Ziltch" was indeed a "D" Model. I had too many things on my mind earlier and misspoke. What I should have said was that I really only had two choices for a shiny F-100, this "C" model as Laven's, or a "D"  Model as "Triple Ziltch". I was going to build the "D" first as Triple Ziltch, and then later an "F" in camo. Since you had requested info on the "C" type seat earlier, I decided to do this one first, and it will be Laven's.

 

I have decided, however, that I will do both a "D" and an "F" later, but both in camo. I will not do the "Triple Ziltch".

 

Brain Fart

 

Ed

[Vladan Dugaric]

Just a note about Triple Zilch, when you do build your D model: it was sprayed Aluminium lacquer, so apart from the hot part of the rear fuselage around the engine bay, which was titanium, unpainted, and heat stained, the rest of the aircraft was not natural metal.

Edited February 24, 2017 by Vladan Dugaric

[RidgeRunner]

Well, those early Sleds certainly were colourful so good luck! . The USAF Sled I always liked is the 405th TFS one from Takhli with the purple and white checkerboards. I built a Frog D with Microscale decals of this when I was much younger. Still my favourite US Sled scheme.

 

Martin

 

Edited February 24, 2017 by RidgeRunner

[TheRealMrEd]

Right, Vladan -- pretty much everything was changed from bare metal from around 1958. That's what I meant about few really colorful BMF F-100's to choose. I won't be doing Triple Ziltch; my "D" will be in Vietnam Camo.

 

But, to continue -- a few details to accomplish before trying the highly polished BMF to come (hopefully).

 

First, the piece provided in the Aires F-100D kit for the rear of the cockpit should actually be installed into the canopy itself.  So I shaped a piece of 30 thou card to to fit the now wider fuse at the rear of the cockpit, and temporarily glued a piece of sprue onto it with hot liquid glue (Weld-On #3) to act as a handle while gluing the piece onto the fuse:

 

 

When the glue has dried, another drop of liquid glue is applied to the join just at the end of the sprue, and after a few seconds, the no-longer-needed sprue piece is removed, leaving the shaped filler piece behind.  Notice that you can just barely see the PE gun-sight lens frame has been installed atop the cockpit hood. It will later be painted black, before the lens glazing is applied, and before the front wind screen is installed:

 

 

In the right hand picture above, you will see the instrument panel that I'm going to use. I was going to just use the parts provided i the Aires F-100D cockpit set, but I managed to misplace the film that goes behind the panel, which had the instrument faces printed on it. Those instruments were very tiny, and fortunately, I had laying about an old Eduard PE set #72-287 for the Esci F-100D, which offered three different styles of etched panel and photo films, the center one which looked much closer to an F-100C panel than any other -- also the instrument were larger and easier to see. I simply cut off the "wings" which are cast as part of the Aires 'pit, and glues everything to the Trump kit instrument panel piece. (Top part will be painted black after installation).

 

Having left the Aires 'pit "floating" in the fuse (as described earlier), it was easy to slide the 'pit forward so that everything went together. I the glued the pit on the back end with 560 canopy glue.

 

Next up is a pic of the I.P. in place, along with the gun-sight glazing having been added, before gluing on the front windscreen with more 560 glue:

 

 

Next it was also required that I widen the Aires piece that was stated to go at the rear of the cockpit, but instead needs to fit into the rear of the canopy. A piece of 10 thou card was glued on with CA and then shaped to fit the original Esci kit canopy, from whence came the vacuform copy.

 

 

IAt first, I had trouble getting the plastic part to stay in place in the rather flimsy vacuform canopy, until I hit upon the idea of zapping it into place with three tiny dots of Bondic UV-activated glue. This allowed me to hold the parts together with one hand and then apply the glue and cure it, and with the other hand..... no, wait!

 

Oh, and I also painted the plastic piece black before gluing! Anyway, here's how it looks:

 

 

The pieces in the pic on the right above, are required to fill the hole in the pit, behind the seat area. I began by again temporarily gluing a piece of sprue to the part, making the part easier to shape to fit, and also making it easier to install into the cockpit.  While drying, it looked like this: Again, due to lack of clear "C" photos, this area will be treated to some "spurious" detailing.

 

 

Next, failing to find any clear pics on what the one-piece main gear doors looked like, when down, I chose option "B" -- t glue them in the up position, as though the hydraulics had not yet bled down. This will be a bit fanciful, as the tail-planes will be depicted as though they had! Such is life without the right photos.

 

In any event, gluing the doors in left a cute little gap in between the two, which will be filled by the shown piece of plastic card; tapered on both ends, and sanded to a l

slight wedge shape on the sides. When put into place, it will not fall through, and will sort of fit itself, with the help of a little liquid glue. It will be trimmed flush with a sharp knife, later on.

 

 

Well, that's it for this time -- more on the way...

 

Ed

 

 

 

 

[Hamden]

 

More superb engineering this is going to be a real stunner!

 

   Roger

[rob Lyttle]

Maestro, I think you're on to a winner with the UC doors.

Tail hanging, le slats down, canopy open, ground crew working - and UC doors closed.

Having said that, I think I can see the thermal blur of a running jet, and the hint of a pilot's helmet.

Afraid a phone pic of a page doesn't give the best results 

[Jackman]

On 2/26/2017 at 2:48 AM, rob Lyttle said:

 

 

Tail hanging, le slats down, canopy open, ground crew working -

 

This has me curious; were F-100C/D/F usually seen with their flaps down? I know the slats down is de rigueur but what about the flaps? Always wondered about this since the Trumpeter kit gives the flaps separately. Thanks in advance.  

[RidgeRunner]

Hi Jackman, 

 

No,  they weren't.  If fact they generally sat pretty clean in the respect. They also had the central main u/c doors down.  It is great that Trumpeter provide the option but they can only be utilised in the down position if modelled on departure or landing/roll out. 

 

Martin