The Best 1/72 Scale F-100C I Can Build

[RidgeRunner]

Note also that often the air brake wasn't left to dangle when parked. It was really only when the hydraulics were off completely. All the kits give the option but truly you represent the aircraft with it withdrawn.

 

Martin 

Edited February 27, 2017 by RidgeRunner

[RidgeRunner]

Hi Ed!!!

 

How is she coming along?

 

I have come to a dead end. I forgot to order the decals I needed and now they are winging their way from your side of the Atlantic to me ;). I am at that stage - basic painting done, first gloss coat on for decaling.

 

So, while I wait I am continuing with my attempt at another Airfix F-84F. She is built, after some tricky scribing, and I applied the first colour today!

 

Martin 

Edited March 9, 2017 by RidgeRunner

[rob Lyttle]

Well guys, don't want to clutter up the thread with extraneous stuff, but I gotta say along with the f100, I do like the little f84!

I had a go at the Academy kit in 1/72 last year, and liked it a lot. Enjoyed the build and the end result. I couldn't cope with the glazing on the suggested canopy though. Academy included a plain canopy in the kit, probably for a later version? I opted for that in the end, but I may have another go at the greenhouse type some time.

Any way... enjoying all this...!

[RidgeRunner]

54 minutes ago, rob Lyttle said:

Academy kit in 1/72 last year

 

Really - I've not seen that..... Do you mean the F-84E/G?

[rob Lyttle]

You're right, this one -

What's the 84F like? Is that the one with the plain canopy? If so, I'm in!

I'd better go and read up on this stuff....

Still haven't figured out what to hang under the wings.

[RidgeRunner]

Ah ha! Nice :). I'd go for tanks if you have them. I. Ever model wesponry but i do love tanked up jets!

 

What you needed/need was/is this:

 

Martin

Edited March 9, 2017 by RidgeRunner

[rob Lyttle]

Yep, that looks like my kinda book!

[RidgeRunner]

It is probably the best you'll find on the market. There is, of course (for the F-models) the Aerofax Minigraph No.15. That is worth having. The Schiffer book has lots of photos which are a help. Its downside is its emphasis on the US operation of the aircraft whereas it is probably more attractive in its various schemes when seen "overseas". Mine will not be US but will be an alien!

 

You asked about the Airfix kit. Well, it is okay for its age. I has to be said, though, that it is pretty much the only offering available aside from the dodgy Italeri kit which has many drawbacks. One thing in its favour, though, are the thinner panel/doors. Of course you can always thin those of the Airfix. What is more difficult is overcoming the Italeri's over-wide cockpit and canopy. Give one a go! It was a great machine, a stalwart of European air forces.

 

Martin

[rob Lyttle]

Martin, just had a Google on the 84F- I'm up to speed now!

You can see that it's the same basic hardware, but that is quite a modification. I guess development was at a red-hot pace just then!! And the realisation that straight wings had limitations 

I'm going to bear this project in mind.

[TheRealMrEd]

Hi all,

 

Back again with an update. First off, I finally decided the first attempt at burnt metal was too much for a fairly new aircraft. Also, the polished aluminum wasn't getting the job done. So, I decided to start over!

 

Back to the black alclad II primer:

 

 

Here, I noticed I wasn't getting the shine that I normally got. Decided it was time for a major air brush tune-up. (For the Alclad stuff, I use a .2mm Iwata HP-SB+ -- for Testor's, I use an Aztek). After the overhaul, still not right. Looked into things (literally) with a 10 power eye loupe, and found that the air nozzle on the Iwata was cracked and shoddy. Had to stop and wait for a new nozzle by mail. THEN everything started working as expected!

 

Next, everything (except the drop tanks) gets an overall coat of Polished Aluminum. No pre-shading here, as I was worried that subsequent work would just obliterate it anyway. Turns out I was right. The drop tanks get white Alclad II primer for the colors (and colored decals) to follow:

 

 

Next step, masking and shooting the second bare metal color; first on the bottom side -- in this case, using Stainless Steel.

 

 

Next some of the intricate masking for the upper side and tail Stainless Steel parts:

 

 

I use the Tamiya masking tape, and even on the Polished Aluminum, where it was good and shiny, no paint lifting occurred. (Before the airbrush repair, I had painted the horizontal stabilizers, but the brush was putting  too dry a coat of paint. That non-shiny coat  lifted at once. In fact -- I used more Tamiya tape to pull off the whole bad layer, vs. sanding or paint stripping.) On good solid Alclad, the tape won't hurt it.

 

Next up, another go at the burnt metal parts, this time using various Alclad II hot metal colors. These look better on a lesser-aged aircraft, but I think that for an old warbird, I like the effect of the Testor's transparent red and blue used earlier in the first effort. This time, the effect is a little more understated:

 

 

 

These aren't the greatest pictures, but I like this effect better for this particular bird. Not to say that I won't fiddle with it a little more later on. We'll see.

 

Well that's it for a few days, gotta get ready for Atlanta Con 2017 tomorrow (I'm entering my P2V-3 Neptune, B-45A Tornado, and my F-35A Lightning II). Wish me luck.

 

After that, going a holiday for a short while, so the next update will probably be a week or so from now.

 

Later, Ed

Edited March 10, 2017 by TheRealMrEd
typo

[TheRealMrEd]

Rob,

 

I believe that to get to an "E" version from the "G" kit, you need to fill the refueling receptacle doors on the left top inner wing, and fill the auxiliary air intake doors ahead of the wings on either side. The earlier "E"'s had the plain canopy, but many were later updated with the "framed" "G" style (check references for particular a/c), as well as noting whether a particular aircraft hard the early "drilled holes" or the later "fewer slots" type airbrake.

 

That would get you pretty close.

 

BTW, I don't THINK that any "G" models ever had other than the re-inforced style canopy.

 

Ed

[RidgeRunner]

She's looking good, Ed

[rob Lyttle]

Ok Ed, good luck in Atlanta🌟👍

We'll be here when ya get back!

[RidgeRunner]

Hi Ed! How is she going, and how was your event in ATL?

 

Martin

[Hamden]

 

Thats a nice result with the Alclad

     Roger

 

[TheRealMrEd]

Hi all, sorry to be so late responding, but I'll explain in a moment. Moderator, I couldn't figure out where to put the general modeling-related comment, so feel free to relocate if desired!

 

First, the AtlantaCon 2017. Sorry to say that I didn't win, either with entries in 1/72 scale props, and another two in jets. However a couple of other REALLY nice subjects, I believe a Lancaster and I think a Short Sunderland in rescue markings, also didn't win, despite flawless paint schemes, antenna, clear glazings and so on. Let me say upfront that I am just fine that none of my models (the B-45, P2V-3 Neptune and the F-35A Lightning II ) were not seen as the best models. Beauty is in the eye, etc.etc.

 

What does trouble me a bit is that first off, the 1/72 and 1/144 scales were combined. I understand this for economic reasons -- in this age, the quarter scale model entries  outnumbered  God's Chosen Scale by about 5 to 1, so save a nickel on a couple of trophies. The problem I have is what DID win.

 

First off, in jets. Two of the winners were 1/144 very clean, very neat, and basically very stock, well painted models. (one was hand-painted, with an eagel motif, but not perfectly. The other was more simply painted, but well done.

 

In the props category, two of the three winners were 1/72 scale German WW II subjects. Both, let me say, were very well done; neat and clean, but no mods, etc. They both were painted in hard edged, easy to mask splinter paint schemes.

 

I am given to understand that many judges start with  perfection as the norm, and then start subtracting for flaws. No judgement is to be followed for accuracy of the kit/model. Also, I understand that in many cases, because the judges may enter models themselves, they recuse themselves from judging their own categories of best knowledge. That is ship or armor modelers may just aircraft, and so forth.

 

I am saddened because the judging seemed to lean toward the small jewel-like models, rather than the larger, more involved ones. After all, an average 1/144 scale jet fighter may have 12 parts, vs. 50 or more for 1/72, leading to a LOT less work and far fewer opportunities to screw up; ditto the paint jobs (none of which were bare metal). The models were a little more rare than run-of-the-mill (one, I believe) was a resin or vacuform kit.

 

What I am really saddened about is it appears were headed for a modeling era where to win a contest, one would have to build "safe" subjects, with few mods or customization, as well as easy to paint paint jobs. That is to say, build "low risk" models, and don't shoot for the moon! I hope that this is not the case on the Brit side of the pond, but I would welcome your comment.

 

Ed

 

P.S. Let me be quick to say that I have seen many very detailed and intricate 1/144 models, and have no axe to grind with that scale! Like I build 1/72 to same space, some people want to save even more!

[TheRealMrEd]

Now on to the F-100C:

 

Having just returned from a short vacation, I was holding the Hun model under a strong light, doing a final inspection before adding decals.

 

Deeply engrossed, I didn't notice as my wife moved up close behind me and asked a question. I wasn't startled, but as I turned to reply, as is more frequently common for me lately, I relaxed the grip on the hand holding the model -- and dropped it on the hard floor, breaking off a wing and the vertical stabilizer. Drats! (or other strong language followed, but only after the wife had gone on).

 

In any event, here we go sanding, filling priming, painting, etc.etc. Seems like I have to go though this at least once per model these days. Perhaps next time, I'll simply hurl the glued-together model at the wall BEFORE painting, and save a step or two!

 

Also, while enduring this self-flagellation, I decided I didn't like the Vac coy of the Esci Canopy windscreen that I had installed, so I pulled that off and replace it with the same item from the Falcon Clear Vax set #43. So, I had to glue that on, fair it in, etc.

 

Right now, hopefully, all the blending and repair work is done, the repaired areas are drying in the paint booth from their second newest coat of black Alclad II primer, and maybe later today (or soon), I'll add some bare metal, then once again be able to start the decal process. With luck, I'll post up some more picks later in the week; with no luck, well maybe someday...

 

Pray for us in the throes of our stupidity (and clumsiness!).

 

Ed

[RidgeRunner]

18 hours ago, TheRealMrEd said:

Hi all, sorry to be so late responding, but I'll explain in a moment. Moderator, I couldn't figure out where to put the general modeling-related comment, so feel free to relocate if desired!

 

First, the AtlantaCon 2017. Sorry to say that I didn't win, either with entries in 1/72 scale props, and another two in jets. However a couple of other REALLY nice subjects, I believe a Lancaster and I think a Short Sunderland in rescue markings, also didn't win, despite flawless paint schemes, antenna, clear glazings and so on. Let me say upfront that I am just fine that none of my models (the B-45, P2V-3 Neptune and the F-35A Lightning II ) were not seen as the best models. Beauty is in the eye, etc.etc.

 

What does trouble me a bit is that first off, the 1/72 and 1/144 scales were combined. I understand this for economic reasons -- in this age, the quarter scale model entries  outnumbered  God's Chosen Scale by about 5 to 1, so save a nickel on a couple of trophies. The problem I have is what DID win.

 

First off, in jets. Two of the winners were 1/144 very clean, very neat, and basically very stock, well painted models. (one was hand-painted, with an eagel motif, but not perfectly. The other was more simply painted, but well done.

 

In the props category, two of the three winners were 1/72 scale German WW II subjects. Both, let me say, were very well done; neat and clean, but no mods, etc. They both were painted in hard edged, easy to mask splinter paint schemes.

 

I am given to understand that many judges start with  perfection as the norm, and then start subtracting for flaws. No judgement is to be followed for accuracy of the kit/model. Also, I understand that in many cases, because the judges may enter models themselves, they recuse themselves from judging their own categories of best knowledge. That is ship or armor modelers may just aircraft, and so forth.

 

I am saddened because the judging seemed to lean toward the small jewel-like models, rather than the larger, more involved ones. After all, an average 1/144 scale jet fighter may have 12 parts, vs. 50 or more for 1/72, leading to a LOT less work and far fewer opportunities to screw up; ditto the paint jobs (none of which were bare metal). The models were a little more rare than run-of-the-mill (one, I believe) was a resin or vacuform kit.

 

What I am really saddened about is it appears were headed for a modeling era where to win a contest, one would have to build "safe" subjects, with few mods or customization, as well as easy to paint paint jobs. That is to say, build "low risk" models, and don't shoot for the moon! I hope that this is not the case on the Brit side of the pond, but I would welcome your comment.

 

Ed

 

P.S. Let me be quick to say that I have seen many very detailed and intricate 1/144 models, and have no axe to grind with that scale! Like I build 1/72 to same space, some people want to save even more!

 

Hi Ed!

 

I'm sorry that it didn't turn out and equally, if not more so, that there is a shift in trends. I guess that's what life is all about. For me, like you, 1/72 is THE only scale, although I appreciate fine models in all others scales and comment with complements as I feel necessary. I model for my own enjoyment. It is, after all the only way of seeing something long gone in 3D to the extent that you can touch and feel it. I can't comment on contests or the judging other than to say that for me it is the skills, effort, ingenuity, etc that counts. If that isn't recognised it is a sad day for the hobby.

 

All the best,

 

Martin

  

[RidgeRunner]

18 hours ago, TheRealMrEd said:

Now on to the F-100C:

 

Having just returned from a short vacation, I was holding the Hun model under a strong light, doing a final inspection before adding decals.

 

Deeply engrossed, I didn't notice as my wife moved up close behind me and asked a question. I wasn't startled, but as I turned to reply, as is more frequently common for me lately, I relaxed the grip on the hand holding the model -- and dropped it on the hard floor, breaking off a wing and the vertical stabilizer. Drats! (or other strong language followed, but only after the wife had gone on).

 

In any event, here we go sanding, filling priming, painting, etc.etc. Seems like I have to go though this at least once per model these days. Perhaps next time, I'll simply hurl the glued-together model at the wall BEFORE painting, and save a step or two!

 

Also, while enduring this self-flagellation, I decided I didn't like the Vac coy of the Esci Canopy windscreen that I had installed, so I pulled that off and replace it with the same item from the Falcon Clear Vax set #43. So, I had to glue that on, fair it in, etc.

 

Right now, hopefully, all the blending and repair work is done, the repaired areas are drying in the paint booth from their second newest coat of black Alclad II primer, and maybe later today (or soon), I'll add some bare metal, then once again be able to start the decal process. With luck, I'll post up some more picks later in the week; with no luck, well maybe someday...

 

Pray for us in the throes of our stupidity (and clumsiness!).

 

Ed

 

and about the Sled.... I guess that happens to us all ;). I'm glad you are sticking with it. Mine is at the post weathering varnishing stage and it'll then be u/c, doors, tanks, etc Then one final varnish coat and she'll be done...

 

Martin

 

[rob Lyttle]

Comiserations MrEd, we feel your pain!

Maybe living in a padded cell is the way to go - some would say "in more ways than one!"

Never mind, it's all character- building. Press on,there....

[TheRealMrEd]

Hello all---

 

Having worked through my previously-depicted paint, I also decided to repaint the aircraft in REALLY polished aluminum, as I was not certain whether I'd have problems with the decals, need to overs-pray a clear topcoat, etc.

 

Turns out I need not have worried, as the kit decals are hands down the best decals with which  I have EVER worked! They separate quickly from their backing, even in cool water, are plenty tough enough to be moved about without folding over or tearing, and settle right into the panel lines. Doubt if I'll need much, if any decal setting solution.

 

Here are a couple pics of the re-painted critter, along with the first wave of kit deals. (I put one side on, let dry, trim if necessary, the do the other side. So far only the excess on the tail needs to be trimmed, as the Obscureco tail iis narrower in chord than the original kit tail).

 

 

 

Note tail the fuel tank fins are different colors, and except for blue/green, are symmetrically opposite. The white paint is to even out the colors of the decals, should they be thin.

 

The kit decals are missing the fuel tank nose  stripes, but an older decal set, #72-357 (I think Microscale) had them albeit with the wrong shade of green. Not certain what, if anything, I'll do about that. The red arrow shows the pieces I'm going to try to fit on the Trump fuel tanks.

 

 

At least, I'm now back on track and failing other disasters, should be able to make fairly rapid progress from here on.

 

Later,

 

Ed

Edited April 1, 2017 by TheRealMrEd
additional info

[TheBaron]

Most colourful feathers on that bird Ed! I appreciated your comments on Alclad not lifting with Tamiya tape as long as you have a solid layer.

 

Looking the epitome of silvered speed now!

Tony

[RidgeRunner]

Hi Ed!

 

I got there in the end

 

Martin

 

[TheRealMrEd]

Well done on the Turkish "C" model, Martin. I especially like the burned-off paint effect on the tail. I'm going to have to try that when I get around to my "D" and/or "F" models.

 

Anyway, good job!

 

Back to my own travails. To begin, I suppose I should show a pic of the aircraft I'm trying to model, mostly because it's very shiny metal and very colorful!

 

 

It is, of course, the famous F-100C flown by Col. George Laven, of colorful aircraft fame, a very highly polished bird. He liked this one because the number was the same as his first P-38E, #76.

 

After  installing most of the required decals, here is my offering to this point, a bunch of colorful parts:

 

 

Now for some more details. First, the masking of the afterburner:

 

 

Next, on the right, above, my attempt of the two little access or perhaps re-enforcement panels that fit where the horizontal stabilizers attach to the fuselage. The green bit is the plastic "master", and the two other parts are cut from Bare Metal Foil. Hose courtesy of the hole punch shown.

 

Next the model with the tail end parts assembled:

 

 

And, last for now, showing where the Microscale decals didn't stretch all the way around the fuel tank (guess the ESCI tanks really are undersized). This, I will hopefully be able to make up using many small bits of the remaining decal sheet parts; otherwise, I'll have to appeal around for the leftover's of the model from someone else's  Trumpeter "C" kit decals.

 

 

Let me mention here that the Trumpeter kit decals failed to include not only the fuel tank tip decals, but the decals for the pitot tube, the speed brake as well as the turbine warning stripes on the rear fuselage! Fortunately, I was able to obtain the latter from the Trumpeter "D" model kit (which I currently plan to do in camo), but the other have to be cobbled together.

 

Well, that's all for now. A couple more detail, and then it's off to final assembly. By the way, that's one of the challenges of this kit and this scheme -- figuring what decals to put on when to allow for handling, as well as what parts to glue on first, for the same reason. In either case, the time for handling this model with bare hands is long past, not because the paint is not cured enough, but because I don't want to have to keep wiping off the prints.

 

Later,

 

Ed

[TheRealMrEd]

Hello again, everyone! Sorry for the long delay between posts, but the better half shanghaied me to build the deck in the backyard, which I had been promising for a year. Due to completion of the framing, and pending arrival of the deck boards, I found a little time to work on the model.

 

First, here's how the tail end on the F-100C is supposed to appear -- a red and a white marker light, and a fuel vent:

 

 

Here's how I chose to try and get there:

 

 

( I didn't steal the kids' Lite-Brite pegs, I was never there!  These aren't the Lite-Brite pegs you're looking for.  Nothing to see here, move along...)

 

First off, (top row) some miraculously-appearing lite-brite pegs, a candle and lighter,  (Bottom row) a red and a white LB pegs, a brass sheet with preformed nav light formed holes (the nippers are just to support the brass whilst pressing the heated LB pegs through the holes to form the light lenses)  and the finished product, also shown below:

 

 

The first effort, on the left above, ended up with lights that were a little too large, the second effort looked somewhat better. Not perfect just better.

 

Again, let me mention that the process for this consists of heating your favorite translucent plastic just enough to soften it, to allow it to squeeze through the hole in the template to form the light. If you get the plastic into the flame, it will immediately burn and discolor. The dill is to hold the plastic high enough above the flame to avoid burning, but low enough to eventually soften. Practice may be necessary. By the way, there are many different scribing templates that offer these teardrop-shaped holes; those made from other metals will probably be sturdier than the brass one shown above, but that's what I had to hand, having mislaid a box full of scribing templates gathered over the years.

 

Here's what the end result looks like on the model. Not perfect, but probably more accurate than the last few 1/72 scale F-100C's you've seen!

 

 

Next up -  the main canopy. In the end, I decided I didn't like the vacuform copy of the ESCI canopy that I had made, so as mentioned earlier, I used the one from the Falcon Clear Vax set #43.

 

 

Shown above is the Falcon canopy masked on the inside, using the technique described here:http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/297452-masking-scale-model-canopies-inside-and-out-video-tutorial/

 

Also shown is are the resin parts for the F-100D cockpit set, that glue to the inside of the canopy itself, as the rear deck under this part looks completely different, as will be shown later.

 

Next, another PITA, at least for me, painting the Pitot Tube Of Many Colors! This items, as well as the fuel tank fins must be painted yourself, and they are done in colors and seem to match those colors found in a roll of Lifesavers candy. I tried to mix my own colors, with only moderate success. If anyone knows a source of model paint in these colors, I would love to hear of it!

 

 

Next, we have the custom-modified F-100C seat installed into the cockpit. Looks like it was made to fit....oh, wait....

 

 

Well, that's it for now. Not much left to do but a little more canopy detail, the nose probe, some more braces on the fuel tank and such, and attaching the canopy. As they are calling for rain in my area later this week, there's a good chance I'll wind this model up in a few days. If not, there's a VERY good chance that I'll finish the deck instead. We'll just have to see..

 

Thanks for looking in again.

 

Later, all...

 

Ed