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Finished! - Monogram 1/48 Harrier Gr.1


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Decaling done, I put on a coat of gloss followed the day after by a coat of 3 part matt and 2 part gloss coat to simulate the semimatt appearance of modern planes.

So far - so good.

I set it aside to fully cure, but I just couldn't wait, so I took the masking off and saw a problem:

FullSizeRender040_zps64ksf8zp.jpg

 

Now - fool as I am, I used Tamiya glue for this, so I'll have to see, if I

A - somehow can separate the canopy with out damaging it - OR

B - just say something along the lines:" T'was an early foggy morning at Guthersloh air base. The sun battled with the morning dew as who should have the day, and the dew seemed to be winning. A light fog drifted across the base and mist gathered on the inside of the Harriers canopies".

 

Cheers :bye:

Hans J

Edited by HansReggelsen
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Well it's sorted - well kind of. I've gotten the canopy off, cleaned the inside and repainted the edges and now just have to wait that to dry and I'll put it back on, but this time with white glue! :winkgrin:

 

Cheers :bye:

Hans J

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Nice rescue :)  

 

Out of curiosity, do you 'Klear' your canopies? I've heard it mitigates the fogging. Not sure whether that's true or not :shrug:  I tend never to use cyano near clear parts for fear of issues!  :tmi:

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25 minutes ago, RMP2 said:

Good to hear you sorted it.

 

For future reference, how do you go about cleaning it off clear parts?

 

I used my trusty old Tritool engraver to work the edges of the clear part until I could lift it off.

Then I used a slowturning motortool with a cotton-disc and polished the inside with it.:D

 

1 minute ago, wimbledon99 said:

Nice rescue :)  

 

Out of curiosity, do you 'Klear' your canopies? I've heard it mitigates the fogging. Not sure whether that's true or not :shrug:  I tend never to use cyano near clear parts for fear of issues!  :tmi:

 

No I don't - I have tried it once but I ended up with an ugly 'edge' around the bottom-edge, so I haven't used it since. But I have read others using it with succes.

I too never use cyano for the clear parts, I usually use white glue (although in this particular case I didn't! :doh:)

The cyano reacts with the grease of your fingerprints and leave a foggy residue behind. I think policeforces are using this effect to find fingerprints. :bobby:

"But it's alright now - I learned my lesson well!" - from now on I'll alway use white glue or Crystal Clear! :winkgrin:

 

Cheers :bye:

Hans J

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I couldn't survive without an abundance of cyano when I was building RC models but I have to admit to using it quite sparingly with plastic kits. That said, it's great when used for the right parts.

 

I did struggle with my first ventures with 'Klear' on clear parts but I've found that if the parts are first dipped in glass cleaner, the excess 'Klear' flows away quite well. I then just lay them onto some absorbent roll (in a vented, covered container) and they usually come out OK :fingerscrossed:

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10 minutes ago, wimbledon99 said:

I did struggle with my first ventures with 'Klear' on clear parts but I've found that if the parts are first dipped in glass cleaner, the excess 'Klear' flows away quite well. I then just lay them onto some absorbent roll (in a vented, covered container) and they usually come out OK :fingerscrossed:

 

Does it not then stick to the absorbent roll and leave a messy edge?

 

Apols for the hijack, Hans!

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16 minutes ago, RMP2 said:

 

Does it not then stick to the absorbent roll and leave a messy edge?

 

Apols for the hijack, Hans!

 

Nope, As long as you remove the part slowly from the 'Klear', it works out OK. Give it a go - there's no turning back! :wink: 

 

P.S. I first used to do this with standard A4 paper but found better results with 'kitchen roll' :) 

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Just now, wimbledon99 said:

 

Nope, As long as you remove the part slowly from the 'Klear', it works out OK. Give it a go - there's no turning back! :wink: 

 

P.S. I first used to do this with standard A4 paper but found better results with 'kitchen roll' :) 

 

So... it doesnt stick itself to the paper or roll as it dries?

Sorry, I just find that surprising. Understood re losing the excess Klear, but still...

 

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I guess the excess is soaked up before it dries. There's a picture in my Phantom thread - I just lifted them straight out of the box when dry (I tend to leave drying for 24 - 36 hours)

 

Right, back to Hans' Harrier - Sorry.

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Well I'm back - a bit sooner than I thought, but I succeded in braking off the nosepitot - not once, but TWICE :doh: , during the weathering process plus the left outrigger and the outher left pylon.

So while the glue dries I thought I'd give you a midtime update! :winkgrin:

 

FullSizeRender045_zpsqxcbgklr.jpg

be695df2-1825-4b62-be32-2e87b54ef4ad_zps

The originally program will resume momentarily! :winkgrin:

 

Cheers :bye:

Hans J

 

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And without further ado:

FullSizeRender047_zpsd16er3fm.jpg

All I now need is a day with a sunny sky to take a couple of pictures of my Harrier.

The bench is cleared for the next one - a 1/72 DHC Caribou over in the DeHavilland MegaGB.

Thanks for following this one and especially thanks for all your guidance and input - I've learned a lot!

Cheers for now - see you in the gallery. :bye:

Hans J

 

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