heloman1 Posted March 17, 2017 Share Posted March 17, 2017 Looking good Mark, very good. Apologies for beiig away form your build for a while. Things and life are getting in the way... I'm sure you wil understand? Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdesignart Posted March 17, 2017 Author Share Posted March 17, 2017 Thanks. I'm currently battling with AVO stylee side stripes which has put a halt to top coating the body shell as it's required for measuring and trial fitting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdesignart Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 (edited) Well finally I've managed to get a decent topcoat on the body shell. I'm giving Hycoat rattle cans a try and having been impressed with their primers decided to try the gloss coat which is 'Double Acrylic Concentrated' - wow so much lettering on such a small can. The first attempt wasn't too successful, the finish resembling shiny sandpaper? Yes, warm room, warmed paint etc., etc. I left it to harder off and flatted it down whilst doing other things like the RS2000 masks - which will be appearing at the usual place soon. I recoated the body shell yesterday and this time, using the same application process, success. I think it's good enough to avoid polishing as it will be decalled within an inch of it's life and no doubt weathered after a coat of Alclad Klear Kote. I've also been experimenting with the much discussed Molotow Liquid Chrome pens with impressive results, I think these may be ideal for retouching the sprue attachment points on chromed parts, rather than having to strip and rechrome the part, especially if it's the ballistically hard Belkits chrome! I'll post a photo if anyone's interested and has not seen the You Tube clips. Edited March 25, 2017 by mbdesignart more info & correcting over enthusiastic spellchecker 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamden Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Superb finish on that shell! Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shood23 Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Body look great and I for one would like to see how the chrome pen works. Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdesignart Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 (edited) I've done a couple of tests with the chrome pens. The light bar is part of the Belkits Escort, mistakenly dechromed in over exuberance, and is over primer with the 1mm nib. The Minilite wheel is a test straight onto bare resin, spokes done with a 1mm nib, rim coated with a 4mm nib. I will wait 24 hrs and recoat to see if the surface shine deepens and smooths out. The 'ink' flow is quite hard to control and for any small detail painting it may be wise to decant some liquid into say a depressed wine bottle cap and use a fine brush or cocktail stick, or use a rag to mop up the excess and just dab the part with the fine nib. As ever it's trial and error with new equipment. Edited March 25, 2017 by mbdesignart extra info + typo 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dstone48 Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 Looking good! out of interest how did you remove the kit chrome? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shood23 Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 59 minutes ago, mbdesignart said: I've done a couple of tests with the chrome pens. The light bar is part of the Belkits Escort, mistakenly dechromed in over exuberance, and is over primer with the 1mm nib. The Minilite wheel is a test straight onto bare resin, spokes done with a 1mm nib, rim coated with a 4mm nib. I will wait 24 hrs and recoat to see if the surface shine deepens and smooths out. The 'ink' flow is quite hard to control and for any small detail painting it may be wise to decant some liquid into say a depressed wine bottle cap and use a fine brush or cocktail stick, or use a rag to mop up the excess and just dab the part with the fine nib. As ever it's trial and error with new equipment. It looks really good, to be honest a lot better than I thought could be done with a paint pen. I think I may have to get one of the refill packs for future builds little bits. Shaun 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdesignart Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 2 hours ago, dstone48 said: Looking good! out of interest how did you remove the kit chrome? Lots and lots of sanding, scraping and swearing! Belkits chrome laughs at all the tried and tested chemicals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdesignart Posted March 29, 2017 Author Share Posted March 29, 2017 A little bit more experimenting with the Liquid Chrome pens. I applied a second coat onto the wheel rim and I think it does improve the finish, making the chrome a bit deeper and lustrous. Then I tried part of it coated with acrylic matt varnish just to see what the effect would be, It appears like anodised aluminium. Varying the finish of varnish over the chrome by masking would be useful for weathering panels or differentiating parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Belbin Posted March 29, 2017 Share Posted March 29, 2017 Cool stuff, Mark. My pens arrived this week. I had a quick trial on a beer bottle top and am just as impressed as everyone else seems to be - it really does look like chrome as opposed to silver. Look forward to catching up on Sunday! Nick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian Suds Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 Coming on nicely. Just had to try one of those pens so I have just placed an order on Amazon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdesignart Posted April 8, 2017 Author Share Posted April 8, 2017 Meanwhile back to the build. After a break whilst the body shell was utilised for a test fit of the RS2000 paint masks today was a big decalling day. All done bar the decals to the anciliary items like the spot lamps. Then it's a coat of clear to seal the decals. Some more work to do on the spotlamps such as covers and mountings and detail painting to window rubbers and the bull bar. The car depicts the vehicle following the return from the London-Mexico Rally when it was 'refreshed' by Ford's competitions department and some of the markings altered from the original. Eagle-eyed viewers will note the rally plaques should really be plates riveted on to the bonnet and boot lid. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Belbin Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 Looking great!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hamden Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 What he said!!!! Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted April 8, 2017 Share Posted April 8, 2017 That does look good indeed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Lovely job Mark! Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shood23 Posted April 9, 2017 Share Posted April 9, 2017 Same remarks as all those above really. The body looks better than when it came from Ford originally. Shaun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heloman1 Posted April 10, 2017 Share Posted April 10, 2017 Looking good Mark, remeber the clearcoat should be subdued. In the sixties/seveties the paints were the same luster as you would get a car from the showroom and the vinyl decals a slghtly (less gloss) semi matt/sheen. Not toffee apple gloss as the 43rd guys would have you belive. What I tried once was to paint the body and then polish the decal sheet ahead of application. Not easy but it did give the decals a uniform sheen/gloss. Colin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdesignart Posted April 11, 2017 Author Share Posted April 11, 2017 (edited) Subdued? Do I have to hit the varnish bottle with a big stick? The car will be weathered which should knock the shine off it. Don't forget this car is one of Ford's showpiece collection and has been properly painted not done on a 1960's production line in between union strikes. Below is a photo from the Graham Robson book - warning this image may contain some gloss. Edited April 11, 2017 by mbdesignart photo added 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdesignart Posted April 26, 2017 Author Share Posted April 26, 2017 Apologies for the slight break in transmission, I was a bit heavy handed with the Alclad Klear Kote which resulted in having to wait for it to dry, flatting and re-coating. Having fully dried I thought I'd attack the glazing and as NJB discovered the fit of the side windows is less than ideal. I decided to remove these from the 'frame' and separate into individual pieces. With a bit of sanding these are now a push fit and sit better within the body cut-outs [image below shows them as a test push fit]. The screen rubbers and quaterlight upright can now be painted. There are also the plexi blocks to attach to the inner faces of the door windows which are used to slide the windows up. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 That is looking great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Belbin Posted April 26, 2017 Share Posted April 26, 2017 Ditto. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyD Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Very interesting and informative build Mark !! The body paint an decal work look superb. Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbdesignart Posted April 28, 2017 Author Share Posted April 28, 2017 Thanks for the kind comments. A little more detail work completed today. The front and rear screen rubbers have been blacked in using a Magic Marker, for the chrome insert on the rear rubber [non on the front on this car] I chromed a strip of 0.4mm Aizu tape using a Molotow marker, left this overnight to dry and applied. I think scale size for the insert would be nearer 0.25 - 0.3mm. The black strips replicate plates that secure the window which are from tape too but need slight adjustment once the bottom edge of the glazing is glued to the body, these may end up being replaced with metal foil. Quite a bit of time was spent sourcing some mesh for the stone guard to the front valance, I finally tracked some down online at The Mesh Company [Warrington] Ltd who have, you guessed it, loads of mesh. Some other small parts have been painted and I'll post some photos once dry. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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