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Wingsy Models Mitsubishi A5M2b "Claude" 1/48


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Afternoon!!

Well its time to start something new - so here we have Wingsy's new "Claude". For look in the box you can take a shufti at their website ( principally because I've already started the model so didn't take any sprue shots...)

http://www.wingsykits.com/product/d5-01-ijn-type-96-carrier-based-fighter-ii-a5m2b-claude-late-version-148/

 

The Claude has long been a favourite of mine, exhibiting as it does that rather ungainly yet elegant period of early monoplane fighter design of the mid/ late 1930's.

And as much as it looks like some sort of Manga-make-believe-crate, it was a very effective combat machine.  I was very tempted by Fine Molds lovely A5M4 - especially as it builds so well - as illustrated by Joe's great build -

However in the end I settled on this new kit from Ukrainian newcomers Wingsy Kits: And what a splendid little model it is too - with very fine recessed panel lines, delicate moulding, PE parts & film instruments, and a dry fit that suggests a very trouble free build!  You would think this was from a Japanese company or perhaps Eduard - it really is that nice.

 

So to that end - here's the, admittedly rather dull, first few pics - mostly showing you the cockpit areas painted with Tamiya XF71 Japanese interior pale grey green.

 

F54255A4-DC30-4756-B509-92D67150C2FB_zps

 

71D2B7DA-7E36-4914-9281-D9AB3229472D_zps

 

DFB3A33E-685D-44A8-BE82-C85FB833A2CA_zps

 

More to come - and it will get less green I promise :)

 

Jonners

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi all!

 

I've been slowly beavering away at this one, and now have the cockpit almost done. 

 

The PE instrument panel , floor plates and levers add a nice level of extra fitness to an already well appointed "habitacle". The seat is nice but from what I can see in my refs needs some lightening holes drilling all over it, so that's what I've done. Then it will have the PE lap belts and single shoulder strap fitted. 

 

A test fit of the 'pit into the feselage shows a very good location, which is nice. 

 

More soon

 

Jonners

 

9C64484A-CA04-4DA5-ACFB-42BDD2382B68_zps

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And very quickly - one goes from bits of model to this:

 

E160BC0E-28B0-4708-815D-2C5A41D04574_zps

 

The fit of this model is excellent, and it's a real pleasure to build - construction took about 4 hours, with Tamiya TS-30 silver leaf spray can for the aluminium and then XF7 red for the tail.

 

So far so good! :)

 

 

Jonners

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Just now, clive_t said:

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but can you go into a bit more detail about how you went about the oil wash please?

Hi Clive - no such thing as a dumb question in modelling - if you dont know, you dont know!

 

OK so the model is painted with Tamiya acrylic spray. That's important because as an acrylic its not affected by oil based paint ( with an enamel paint you'd need to apply a sealing coat of an acrylic varnish for an oil wash, so that the solvent you use for the oil wash doesn't remove the paint underneath).

 

An important thing to remember: Oil washes stain matt finished pants more than gloss ones- so if you 'just' want a panel line wash - gloss coat your model first with a varnish that wont be affected by oil paint and petroleum solvents ( Tamiya X22 gloss is good for this - spray can or airbrushed, but Klear/ Future/ Quick shine acrylic varnish brushed on works just as well). If you want to actually modify the colour too - by the staining effect of the oil - them matt finishes are good - but they take more work to realise.

 

For the oil wash I use oil paints ( think Rembrandt and Turner) . Mine are from 502 Abteilung - developed for modellers which means, I believe, they have a very fine pigment and dry a little faster than 'artists' oils. What I do is squeeze out a little of the paint, and then thin it with cigarette lighter fluid until its runny. I then apply this over the paint using a softish brush - the wash is thin enough that capillary action will often draw it along panel lines - It goes over everything. With the Claude you'll note I used a different wash for the red areas - so I started with the silver areas and grey was and carefully applied it first to the silver by the edge of the red. The lighter fluid evaporates quickly - so by doing this I created an oil wash zone by the red that was fairly dry first . Then I could apply the rest over the silver.

Give it 5 to 10 mins in a normally warm rooms and the lighter fluid has evaporated leaving a film of oil paint over the paint: It will and does look awful.

Now the magic bit.

Take a folded up kitchen towel ( though any  absorbent fine cloth will do)  and start to wipe of the oil paint from the surface. Try not to scrub it off as you'll pull paint from the recessed detail you want to highlight - just gently wipe in a uniform direction ( with aircraft - the direction of the airflow is often used, but sometimes you cant do this in nooks & crannies - so just try and keep the direction uniform in these areas). It takes a wee while, but eventually you start to see the surface reappear and the recessed detail still has a trace of the oil paint left in it. You can wipe as much or as little as you want - it depends on the crispness of the detail and how much you want to leave on. Watch out for tight angled areas like wing roots - its easy to miss these and leave too much wash  in place. I use a Q-tip for these areas so i can get into them.

 

If you find areas where the wash has been over-removed - just mix up a wee bit more oil and spot apply it - then be more careful removing it from these areas.

 

I aim for a VERY small amount of oil wash left on the model.

Once you are happy with what's left - and that's a very personal thing ( less is more etc etc ). Leave the oil paint to dry - now that depends on which oil paint you use , how much you've left on, and how impatient you are :)  I then seal the model with a varnish layer ( airbrushed Tamiya X22 thinned with Mr Self Levelling Thinner, but in the past I've used acrylic varnish like Klear/ Future/ Quick shine too)

 

And with luck - and practice- you now have a model with accentuated panel lines.  Now for my personal prefs! ....

.... I try and mix a wash colour which is just a little darker than the colour its going over - never ever  "just black". My aim is to add interest and depth rather than "highlight" per se.  Your tastes may differ - so do as you see fit; there's no right or wrong on this.

 

 

Hope this helps - but shout if it doesnt.

 

Jonners

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
6 hours ago, Doug Rogers said:

Looking good Jonners,  I'd just been finding out about Wingsy Kits existence and the lovely looking Claude kit and here you are building one. Looks like a high quality kit.

Hi Doug - I have to say its been nothing short of a joy to build. Even the multi part cowling, with PE brace is great fitting- though the PE does require a steady hand...

 

DE3AEA06-C3D5-4512-8ACC-294163974D94_zps

 

If their next release is the Ki-51 Sonia - then I'm in!!

 

Jonners

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Hello Jonners, your Claude looks very nicely detailed. The cockpit looks very good. The engine also looks very well detailed. Keep up the good work. Joe 

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