Spookytooth Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Hi peeps, a silly question but I need to re make some rivets on a over zealously sanded Rhino (1/48). I just wondered what the cheapest and easiest way to do this. I know that there is a difference in sizes between scales , I work in 1/72 and 1/48 scales. Cheers Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenshirt Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Raised or recessed? When I want to regain rivet detail I use a very small pin. Press it into the plastic until a very small amount of plastic is pushed up. If the original was raised, leave it. If the original was recessed, lightly sand away the displaced plastic to leave the small indentation. Size of rivet dictates size of pin to use; can also use sewing needles. Costs me nothing as I use pins from the wife's sewing kit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sammy da fish Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Sorry chaps but as an exairframe fitter working on Canberra's, hunters. I would have to have countersunk rivets no more than 5 thou or about thickness of a standard piece of paper proud of the surrounding surface. Very often a painter would come along and sand down the surface as well. How do you think this would stand scaling it down to 1/32 or 48th. I don't you would see anything of a countersunk rivet. Just my point of view from someone who has put thousands of the little blighters in aircraft skins over the years. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenshirt Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 50 minutes ago, sammy da fish said: Sorry chaps but as an exairframe fitter working on Canberra's, hunters. I would have to have countersunk rivets no more than 5 thou or about thickness of a standard piece of paper proud of the surrounding surface. Very often a painter would come along and sand down the surface as well. How do you think this would stand scaling it down to 1/32 or 48th. I don't you would see anything of a countersunk rivet. Just my point of view from someone who has put thousands of the little blighters in aircraft skins over the years. I spent 30 years around USN aircraft...so I agree with your comment, but if I want to restore rivets on my model I will. And that's what the OP asked help for. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 (edited) Thanks for your replies chaps. It`s not many rivets to reproduce, just some along the spine. It`s either that or sand the bloody lot of them off. But I do heed what has been said though. It is an very old kit. Simon. Edited January 25, 2017 by Spookytooth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 There are a number of options. For raised rivets, droplets of thick superglue can be applied with a pin. It can be hard to get them uniform in size, and spacing, so it's best to help with the latter first by drawing the rivet line on first with a sharp pencil and marking the spacing off. There are raised rivet products you can buy that are applied a bit like decals. Archer and HGW are two companies who make these. http://www.archertransfers.com/SurfaceDetailsMain.html http://hgwmodels.cz/en/content/17-positive-rivets For recessed rivets, you can: 1) Stab with a pin 2) Use a ponce wheel http://www.modelsrgo.co.uk/trumpeter-rivet-maker.html 3) Use a recessed rivet tool like MDC's http://www.modeldesignconstruction.co.uk/mall/productpage.cfm/ModelDesignConstruction/_E32005/54274/Rivet maker 1%2F32 I used the MDC tool on this, and when I got to a stage where I felt it was passable in terms of realism, you can hardly see the damned things! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 Thanks Jaime, the links you posted are very helpful indeed. I will investigate them a bit more and go from there. Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonofjim Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 (edited) I'm late coming into this I know but the Archer fine transfers surface details series are my preferred choice , they're excellent . you can get rivets of various sizes and the come on a strip in a row apply them like decals under paint though. Edited March 2, 2017 by sonofjim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny_K Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Hi, I use a tool from RB Productions. The rivet kit included four wheels with teeth at different spacing's. It is really easy to use to use. Making straight rivets is not difficult. I have used to tool to make rivets in Bare Metal Foil and on bare plastic that is going to be covered in Bare Metal Foil. It is real easy to make straight rivets without the need of a straight edge. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 Cheers folks, I got the Trumpeter tool in the end from the big H. Thanks for all the replies. Simon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redleader Posted March 28, 2017 Share Posted March 28, 2017 Hope that's not blood in your first pic Johnny I've got the RB RivetR also (the mini version same as in the pic). The good thing about it is that the 'rivets' it makes are actually round and not square. Another possibility for larger recessed rivets or screws would be a beading tool like jewellers use, these come in reasonably priced sets from your favourite on-line supplier at about £11 for a set of 23 tools. Other brands are available 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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