Who produces the best modelling paint

[will2017]

I remember also the pin in the end of the glue tube...

 

What a set of replies. I'm slightly overwhelmed with the information, thankyou for them all. I think a try-out with VMC to begin with and see where that gets me is what's in order.

Am I right in thinking that once painted, rather than simply slapping on the decals, it's a coat of varnish, then the decals, then some sort of further decal fixative?

[giemme]

5 minutes ago, will2017 said:

Am I right in thinking that once painted, rather than simply slapping on the decals, it's a coat of varnish, then the decals, then some sort of further decal fixative?

You're going to get another good amount of answers (and different points of view) on that question, too ...

 

Anyhow yes, the general consensus is that you should have a surface as smooth as possible prior to applying decals - hence the gloss varnish coat.

When it comes to decal solutions/fixative, then you have multiple solutions; in general you could use one to prepare the surface where the decal goes, and another one to help it conform to bumps, seams and crevices.

Then seal it in with another gloss varnish coat. I use Tamiya Markfit Strong for both surface prepping and as a softener - but I also use PVA thinned with water for very large decals, instead, to prep the surface.

I have to say, on top of that, that I hate decals and try to paint markings and insignias as much as possible, when possible 

 

Ciao

[Harley John]

7 hours ago, SovereignHobbies said:

 

I remember having a pin in the end of a tube of Polycement! Those were the days!

Oh indeed they were.

 

If I could add my own tuppence worth re the paint issue. Since I came back to the hobby last year I've tried Acrylics (Revel & Humbrol) - not sure, used my old Humbrol - mostly good and used Colourcoats - lovely, a far better paint than I am a painter or modeller.   

[LaurieS]

Will the only way you will (will again) find out which paint suits, you and what you are going to use it for, is to buy a pot of a number of types and try them.

 

The fact is that most of us get wedded to a paint and do not know the good points of others.

 

Been very keen on Vallejo Air. But then heard so much about Tamiya. So I bought Tamiya and could not see much difference.

But then I knew what Vallejo could do for me but not Tamiya.

 

Main difference is odour and if you are subject to it and the environment you are using it in.

Enamels quite smelly and you have to use smelly cleaners. Toxic

Tamiya type with a lacquer base a bit of a whiff. Smell with cleaners. Toxic

Vallejo , Mig,Lifecolor. Virtually no odour at all. Vallejo cleaner has a slight smell. Takes longer but water is a good cleaner. All non toxic

(note Vallejo Model have about 1/3rd toxic). As all of the above it is still best to use a nose appropriate filter even the non toxic as they are

still spraying around very fine ground powder.

 

To take into account. In a flat. In a lounge with your wife watching TV. In a garage or remote room.

Another the number of colours available. How long your patience holds waiting for paints to cure.

To take into account what your subject is and the scale you are using.

 

I went through a good number until I decided the best fro me. As I am sure others did & came to different conclusions.

 

Laurie

 

Edited January 25, 2017 by LaurieS

[Jamie @ Sovereign Hobbies]

53 minutes ago, LaurieS said:

Will the only way you will (will again) find out which paint suits, you and what you are going to use it for, is to buy a pot of a number of types and try them.

 

The fact is that most of us get wedded to a paint and do not know the good points of others.

 

Been very keen on Vallejo Air. But then heard so much about Tamiya. So I bought Tamiya and could not see much difference.

But then I knew what Vallejo could do for me but not Tamiya.

 

Main difference is odour and if you are subject to it and the environment you are using it in.

Enamels quite smelly and you have to use smelly cleaners. Toxic

Tamiya type with a lacquer base a bit of a whiff. Smell with cleaners. Toxic

Vallejo , Mig,Lifecolor. Virtually no odour at all. Vallejo cleaner has a slight smell. Takes longer but water is a good cleaner. All non toxic

(note Vallejo Model have about 1/3rd toxic). As all of the above it is still best to use a nose appropriate filter even the non toxic as they are

still spraying around very fine ground powder.

 

To take into account. In a flat. In a lounge with your wife watching TV. In a garage or remote room.

Another the number of colours available. How long your patience holds waiting for paints to cure.

To take into account what your subject is and the scale you are using.

 

I went through a good number until I decided the best fro me. As I am sure others did & came to different conclusions.

 

Laurie

 

 

All valid, but if I may add to the criteria you pose at the end of your well considered post:

 

1) Is the modeller brushing only, spraying only (very rare) or spraying and brushing and expecting the colours and texture to match (e.g. a touch-in)

2) If spraying Part A, how will the modeller tackle masking? Keep in mind that some types peel off alarmingly easily, making more aggressive primers more or less essential for any surface that may later be masked. Adhesion needs chemical reactions. Chemical reactions need reactive chemicals, which smell - that's why plastic glues smell.

3) If spraying Part B, how wide a pressure and flow envelope does the need? Is it just for blasting large areas at 25psi, or does it still need to work at 10psi heavily thinned through a 0.2mm needle half an inch from the subject spraying Italian smoke rings on? Some paints only atomise and spray well within a fairly narrow range of conditions.

4) How smooth a surface finish does the modeller want or expect? Very smooth or is a textured finish acceptable (or even desirable)?

5) How stable is the climate where the modeller works? Some types are fairly temperature and humidity critical (clogging, milking or drying in flight and giving a horrible dusty looking finish), others work fine over a wider range of conditions.

[phildagreek]

And I thought the full geekery was on the ARC........

[Squibby]

Another vote for Gunze Mr Hobby  (Acrylics) closely followed by Tamiya. For airbrushing of course. Gunze has far better colour matches but both brands of paint are intermixable and thinable with either proprietary thinner.(I use Tamiya X20A)

If you want metallics I'd recommend the amazing Vallejo Metal Colour range of acrylic metalliser paints.

 

For hand brushing I like keeping some Vallejo Model Colour paints around, they thin with water, brush really nicely but are a bit fragile. I usually paint over an airbrushed Tamiya / Gunze coat. I usually use these to paint up cockpit details.

 

If you're dead set on handbrushing though just use enamels, acrylics on the whole just dry too fast to be easily hand brushable. But seriously look to invest in a cheapy double action airbrush and tanked compressor. They're not that costly and the finish on the whole (at least for most of us) will be significantly better.

 

[Bell209]

One word of warning if you use enamels (as I do) - ensure you leave them for a good period before clear-coating (I now wait a week). I was in too much of a hurry with my Saturn V and the Humbrol white (which looked fantastic after I'd sprayed it) turned a pale cream when I applied the Future coat over the top after a couple of days, which irritates me every time I look at the model in good light.

[LaurieS]

15 hours ago, phildagreek said:

And I thought the full geekery was on the ARC........

 

Not it is the Philgreekery

 

Laurie

[lasermonkey]

My favourite acrylic paints is Lifecolor. Once you have it sussed, it goes on beautifully. The only thing I haven't managed with it yet is mottling to any degree of success.

 

Although I like the opacity of Tamiya acrylics, I've never managed to avoid getting a grainy finish, no matter what spray pressure or thinners I've tried. And their range of colours is very limited.

 

I use Vallejo for "general purpose" colours. I still haven't nailed spraying with them, but is oppose I'd call the finish adequate. I don't rate them at all for colour accuracy though. I can always pick out a TLS scheme painted with Vallejo!

 

 Overall though, my favourite current brand is Colourcoats enamels. They are consistent, reliable, spray really well and the   colour range is excellent, not to mention accurate. 

[jean]

All right, I'll throw in my two pence of wisdom for what it's worth.

I have to admit that I am an enamel man through and through, and will always go back to Humbrol. No nasty, Chinese-manufactured horrors have come my way yet.

Funny, I've never used soapy warm water to clean a model before painting. I just use a big(gish) brush with methylated spirit and then wipe it dry with a kleenex.

I always thin the Humbrol paint with 20 % of mineral turpentine (cannot find white spirit here, but it may be pretty similar, as both smell as bad as each other). With that dilution factor, it brushes beautifully and a couple of coats will usually do.

I don't bother any longer trying to brush paint white: rattle cans to the rescue, and the Tamiya white, fine surface primer is actually good enough on its own.

I have tried Tamiya and it is a nightmare to brush half decently.

 

Bottom line: practice makes perfect!

Have fun

 

JR 

Edited January 26, 2017 by jean
forgot a word

[politicni komisar]

Best enamel colors are ex WEM now

SovereignHobbies

Dilute it with Gunz leveling thinner

which helps in drying a few hours and a better grip

the best is first applied Gunz surfacer 1000 

to improve the surface  mixed in a ratio of 6 drops of paint 4 tinner.

 

Best paint on the market are 

http://mrpaint.sk/

in combination thereof sufacer the best thing you can imagine .

 

I'm sorry  SovereignHobbies but it is.

 

Nice welcomes you plastic maniac Kit Builder.

P.k

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 28, 2017 by politicni komisar