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Bristol Britannia vacform (Subject name change)


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hello Darren and others, much filling sanding and patching later.... the engine front ends which were improved earlier on in the piece to give them some depth needed more work, the prop spinners do not extend far enough back from the rear of the blades to give the right look, I toyed with adding plastic material to the back of the prop spinner but settled shaping a plastic piece at the front end of the engines, this gives the model the narrow intake area and the right propeller "sit" much closer to the real thing. The metal props need a heap of fettling straightening and polishing. tedious, no, really tedious work. I gave the wings a shot of silver...... loads of masking coming up with shaded metal bits at the engine "hot" zones, lots of light aircraft grey control surfaces and cowling panels and wing undersurfaces.

trial fitting of the extra intake bit (like a gearbox housing or a truncated shock cone but it isnt)
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the intake on the adjacent engine not modified yet

whoops back to the drawing board
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The prop spinner mod experiment

shot of silver
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On 07/02/2017 at 9:40 PM, woody37 said:

Great job hiding those gaps around the engines :)

hi woody

 

things have been going slowish here... a shed load of masking was required and I found it tedious in the extreme, eventually though I prevailed and did the various shades of metallicness on the wings and the light aircraft grey portions. I am leaving the fuselage painting until after the undercarriage mounting has all been sorted out.. I dont want to mar the fuselage top finish while the model lies on its back with its innards (wheel bays) exposed.

 

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my hobbies in a pile.. model resting on planning material for my next long distance walks in the UK, picture of me next to Rapide at Duxford Airshow last year (I have tickets for RIAT this year)

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Hi gang things have been progressing slowly, lots of masking, making up the wheel bogies fettling the white metal under carriage and props, again I am wishing I just stuck with out of injected plastic boxes, if only "they" would make kits that I want to build!
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Decal design work.. most have little idea how tedious this process can be!
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the monarch logo on the fin will just be a clear decal paper design with the black surround, the underlying yellow paint will be the "fill"

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thanks Britman

 

well there doesn't seem to be that much progress for the amount of time spent on the model since my last post,
much of the time was decal design work and the complications of door and escape hatch outlines, door handles and associated signage, all was good but for the life of me I could not get the document to print, after much arsing around I determined the problem was that I was putting a pattern fill into the cabin windows to get some nice shading effects but there is a glitch in inkscape that prevents printing of this feature, after I filled the cabin windows with solid colours it printed ok...hours and hours that took!
also the registration letters were of no font known to man so I had to modify USAF Amarillo letters in inkscape to get the right look.
tailplane now painted, I decided to do the continuation of the black cheat line on the nose as paint rather than decal.. black is easy to match to I don't expect any problems at decal / paint junction.
Even though I use a laser printer now I still gloss coat the decals, it makes them much easier to apply and the gloss matches the glossy paint finish.

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well ordinarily I don't like decalling (actually there is not much of the whole process I can say I enjoy, I just do what I have to do!) but I am really LOVING this, I HAD to pause from decalling one half to take these pics
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 now for the undercarriage, using a technique that has been successful on some of my other models. I want to get the legs at all the right angles with all wheels touching the "floor" and with the model the right height from the ground...VERY VERY hard to achieve by eyeballing with these multimedia parts and the very ambiguously engineered u/c mounts!

1. First need an uncluttered area at a good height and a wide access angle....dining room table (wife's favourite "ERCOL"), check!
2. Wait for missus to leave for work Check!
3. protective sheet over said table (I am not a complete idiot) check!
4. Pull out my lab kit, model, under carriage legs and a box to hold the whole caboodle up at a suitable height, (the box is a sturdy affair that held a Longchampes handbag I bought for her for Christmas...900 dollar box that) check!
5. Clamp up the model square and level to the base
6. Trial fit leg, adjust model height over the box so that the prop tip is at the height of the main wheel hub check!
7. Slide box away from leg, apply 30 min epoxy to the leg mounts, position leg, slide box back under, adjust leg so that the foot print is square in all aspects, check angles and alignments, model still level? yep  Check!
8. Wait 30 mins for epoxy to set
9. Post these progress shots
10. Then repeat for the other 2 legs

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And so endeth the lesson

 

Port side bogie / leg now in place all square and at all the right angles, symmetrical  with the starboard side
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I started this little build blog to show how I tackle vacuform builds in the hope it may help others that might have an urge to tackle one of their own. From here on the Brit will undergo bog -standard modelling techniques so I'll stop the WIP here and the next post will be when the fat lady (actually fat Wally) sings!
Building vacuforms can be very rewarding, one gets some pretty unique models in their cabinet that way!
eg:
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Thanks Wally.

 

Really enjoyed following the Britannia build thread; almost feel I've been on a journey of discovery with you, sharing your ups and downs along the way. 

Your Whispering Giant certainly turned out great.

 

Please continue to share your adventures with us.

 

Don

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8 hours ago, aircraftkit said:

Thanks Wally.

 

Really enjoyed following the Britannia build thread; almost feel I've been on a journey of discovery with you, sharing your ups and downs along the way. 

Your Whispering Giant certainly turned out great.

 

Please continue to share your adventures with us.

 

Don

Thanks Don and Robot, gladI could help in a small way

 

cheers

wally

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