JD8000 Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Hi all, this is my first post on Britmodeller and I've decided to build the Airfix TSR-2. Not built anything for over 30 years and my how times have changed from brushes and enamel !. The TSR-2 (XR220) is a particular favourite since my days of working in Cosford Museum as a youngster and still visit regularly as it is close by and often take my daughter to visit as well. The aim is to build (with your help and advice) a good looking model and improve my skills and learn new things. I won't be adding to many extras to this one to start with and will (apart from the cockpit which I have decided) be very much a OOB Build. I am sure there will be a few hiccup's along the way but looking forward to the journey. I think the forum rule is to start with a photo of the box (please correct me if I am wrong) - thanks for watching ! 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viper-30 Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Looking forward to this and good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomjw Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Excellent. Got this in my stash so I'll follow with interest. Cheers, Tom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phildagreek Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 It's a good build, crack on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD8000 Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 Thanks all - so after a few weeks of a bit here and there I finished the cockpit. On initial looks I saw that the consoles of the kit looked a bit sparse so decided to try the after market kit (Pavla) as I am hoping if all goes well it will be an open canopy. Whilst waiting I did practice of the standard cockpit - results below. PPS just noticed I missed the backs but hopefully they will be hidden. Took a little liberty by adding an orange HUD - but think it looks ok. Pit was painted in dark sea grey and added a few dark green for the rear scopes, washed with a bit of Flory wash to bring out some of the details. Also a little dry brushing of silver and a few splashes of colour for the control panels. New things learned - dry brushing, flory dark wash and how to use it ! 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD8000 Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 And here is the add-on cockpit now finished - was a little disappointed with some of the moulding under the headrest - but if you look down it is not so noticeable. Note to self if using again check the product carefully to make sure it is ok. Same as before Dark Sea Grey, Dry Brushing (Aluminium) and a little Flory wash and a few splashes of control colour. I think I will go with this one, although involves cutting out some of the fuselage to make it fit. BTW - does anyone have any tips on "making resin stick" ? - I used Tamiya Extra Thin - seemed to do the trick but just thought I would ask. Also on the bases there was a lot of mould - I used a scalpel but thought of using a mini hacksaw - any tips ? 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomjw Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 18 minutes ago, JD8000 said: BTW - does anyone have any tips on "making resin stick" ? - I used Tamiya Extra Thin - seemed to do the trick but just thought I would ask. Also on the bases there was a lot of mould - I used a scalpel but thought of using a mini hacksaw - any tips ? I usually use 5 minute expoxy to stick resin and a razer saw to cut off excess resin. Makes life a lot easier. Hth, Tom. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viscount806x Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 2 hours ago, JD8000 said: Also on the bases there was a lot of mould - I used a scalpel but thought of using a mini hacksaw - any tips ? I think you mean moulding flash there ...my favourite tool (as well as a razor saw already suggested) is a jewellers piercing saw, a bit like a hacksaw but the blades are about 1mm thick and being of a circular section, allow you to follow contours in the part being worked/separated. Just a quick look on Ebay showed this for e.g.: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YNR-Adjustable-Piercing-Fret-Saw-Frame-Jewellers-to-fit-Blades-50mm-to-125mm/331184149177?_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D38661%26meid%3D1b8d04298db04dd98c6e113d4201b354%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26 And, some blades for it: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Jewellers-Saw-Blades-Pack-144-Various-Piercing-Blades-/300384437593?hash=item45f04ec559:m:mJiPm-dJVhZWQ6dPqxPHLXg I find that the very fine blades are most useful but they do break easily and you will need spares. Watching your TSR.2 build with interest by the way. Nige B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bodmin Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Damn good start JD. Looking forward to the rest of your build. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Heath Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Excellent start, hard to believe this is your first model in 30 years. Quote BTW - does anyone have any tips on "making resin stick" ? - I used Tamiya Extra Thin - seemed to do the trick but just thought I would ask. Also on the bases there was a lot of mould - I used a scalpel but thought of using a mini hacksaw - any tips ? I'm surprised that the solvent glue worked as resin does not dissolve in it like ordinary styrene. I would generally use superglue but as Tom says five minute epoxy would give a strong joint but its a bit less convenient. The resin casting blocks are best cut off with a razor saw. The one from JLC has a particularly thin blade. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crossofiron1971 Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Great start, nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD8000 Posted January 20, 2017 Author Share Posted January 20, 2017 Britmodeller Team thanks for the links and comments - appreciated. Replying to comments ... Solvent seemed to work - wiggled a few bits and they didn't move - honest gov ! @Nigel - I swear it has been that long - but if I am honest I spent 30 mins / 45 mins every other day on the pits and there were times I slipped a lot - eyesight is not the greatest but found a good 5 x magnifying glass - I think the photos hide more than they show .. for a bit of fun I will post a pic of my 6 year old daughters efforts on her first model a bit later - I think she is doing well ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 Welcome to the asylum. Resin, superglue or epoxy (Araldite) is good. When cutting or sanding, beware the dust. Always clean it up ASAP. Wet sanding is better. With the kit, I've built a couple, dry fit everything before you glue. You may find you have to shim or sand parts to fit properly. Try to find other builds of it on here & learn from their errors/fixes. Good luck, Pete 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
exdraken Posted January 20, 2017 Share Posted January 20, 2017 nice start! also on my to-do list! this decade though?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 A flying start on a fantastic subject! Being of the opinion that the TSR 2 is the most beautiful aircraft ever, I shall be following with ore than my usual interest. Martian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Another thought, early in the build. The tailplanes and fin fixings aren't the strongest. Think now about adding strength to them. The fin is easy and just needs a couple of extra holes drilled its base, same on the top of the fuselage & bits of rod slipped in. For the tailplanes I drilled the fuselage holes to accept a tube, cut off the plastic pivots, drilled holes in the tailplanes and again used a metal rod. This also means you can paint and then fit the tailplanes. This rod/tube now goes across the fuselage and memory says that it then interferes with the fit of the engine exhaust section which goes onto the rear fuselage. I can't quite remember how I fixed that! You'll have to study the kit & have a think, sorry. BTW this lot also works for the 1/72nd kit too. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 The tube will interfere with the fitting of the exhausts. What I did was to add a short piece of tubing on each side and reinforce the tubing to fuselage joint from the inside. I also did the same for the fin as t kept coming off the model, in this case though, there is room between the jet pipes to allow the tube to go right through to the bottom of the fuselage. My thread is here, though I am not for one minute suggesting you go as mad as I did: Martian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 Well said that man. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD8000 Posted January 21, 2017 Author Share Posted January 21, 2017 Pete / Martian Noted about the fits of the kits and have been looking at that quite closely - also followed the links to the tail and fins - OMG in awe - can I just say if mine looks 50% decent I will be happy - the mods were amazing ! Have a few updates later today / tomorrow as I have been playing with a few things (learning curve) - but have indulged in some superglue - did the finger wiggle test on the resin cockpit and perhaps a few things were not as secure as I first thought ! Truly appreciate the guidance. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete in Lincs Posted January 21, 2017 Share Posted January 21, 2017 You're welcome. It's free, plentiful and no waiting! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD8000 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 Quick Update - not much done this weekend due to other things but here is the fuselage painted and the destructions on which bits to remove - I will attempt these later tonight. Inners sprayed with Dark Sea Grey the same as the cockpit. Also taking on board Pete and Martins advice I dry fitted some of the components - some will need filling and sanding to make them right - thanks for the tip both - please excuse some of the over-spray - I will come to that in another post. As always thanks for watching and appreciate the help along the journey - Food for thought - what if XR220 could be made to fly again like we kept the Vulcan going - now that would be one hell of a charity, but one Airshow I would love to go and see. It's a dream, a wish, but hey who knows ... just mulling .. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JD8000 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 Ready to start work on this little section - tried something new this time - whole bay spayed black and then lightly sprayed with white - trying to give the impression of depth (read a few things about this) - not sure if it will work but we will see. Dry fitted the parts and ready for some Orange Action. May have taken a trip up the road to go see the old girl to check ;-) Dry fit at the moment but need to paint bits up first As always thanks for checking in - slow progress I know - Kr John 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 You are more than welcome to the advice, it was the whole point of posting my build on line in the first place. Maartian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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