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Belgian AF F16A Anniversary


Whirly

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Hi all,

 

after getting all needed approvals  I'm joining this GB with an Italeri F16C (already started) to be finished with Daco Decals as this beauty:

 

FA-49.jpg?m=1371914022

 

The Italeri kit is in 1/72 and probably much more an 'A' than a 'C' given its lineage. Up to now I have noted to backdate the tailpanes to the smaller ones and change the exhaust with a PW F100 (the kit gives you a GE F110 in two positions) while I had already modified the fin with an Esci part to get the long parachute fairing. As you can see it's a bit of jurassic modelling considering the excellent kits currently available but this kit was started a long time ago and put away for some reason.

So, now for a few images: I only closed the fuselage and attached the air intake. Everything else is still to do, even if it's a very simple kit there is much work ahead to adjust the sloppy fit of the main components...

 

Cheers Fabio

 

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welcome aboard and this one is certainly bright!

 

Gosh now having seen the "decals" you have for this build I'd say you've only done 5%!!!  That looks like some serious masking required and super accurate as well. I see they've given you some templates to use, but I don't envy the job!

 

Good luck with the build and especially with the colour scheme, look forward to seeing her in the gallery.

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Thank you Trickrich for your wishes!

These decals are admittedly minimalist, but after my recent disaster with a decal-intensive build I nearly prefer this approach: at least if something goes wrong it's my fault and not the result of a bad product.

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While slowly progressing in the basic build I found two points of interest I had previously underestimated.

First the long fairing at the base of the fin: I always thought it was meant mainly for a brake chute but upon further reading I learnt that the Belgians wanted it to install an ECM suite that had a very controversial development and in the end didn't make it. So, the fairing should be hollowed out. Linked to this is the need to alter the navigation lights on the side of the air intake, since this should have contained another part of the defunct ECM suite:

 

Cattura.jpg

 

Secondly, I did some research on the tailpanes before cutting the angled extensions and found out that probably it's not as easy as it seems: most sources refer only to a bigger area and many scale drawings locate that in the trailing edge only, however there is and interesting sketch in Detail&Scale #3 were the bigger area is spread all around the tailplane. Anyone knows the truth or can compare the early and late tailplanes in a kit and tell me his findings?

 

Meanwhile I attached the wings and puttied the (no so good) joints.

Cheers

Fabio

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If the Belgian ECM-suite-bulge nav light is what I think it is, they are included in all Revell 72nd scale kits. I have six pairs 😊 of them, if you're interested, and a few Revell hollowed out parabrake extensions too. I'm happy to send you some if you want them. Regards, V-P

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Re the tailplanes. My Italeri F-16 build for the 80s NATO GB led me to research a bit. I found that the Revell kit has both sizes of stabilator in it, and from their representation it seems as if both the leading and trailing edges need modifying. There's photos in my GB WIP to illustrate the differences, and if you want some measurements, please say so and I can let you know. I think that unless you're an F-16 nut, or have to have it exactly correct, simply trimming off the rear end of the stabilator will do, it certainly makes a large visual difference. (And if you're an F-16 nut, why are you wasting time with the Italeri kit? :) )

 

One other thing to do is to modify the assembly tab on the stabs so that they can be moved rearwards - Italeri have it too far forward, by the amount of the trailing edge extension ie the TE of the small stabs should line up with the aft end of the airbrakes.

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17 hours ago, vppelt68 said:

If the Belgian ECM-suite-bulge nav light is what I think it is, they are included in all Revell 72nd scale kits. I have six pairs 😊 of them, if you're interested, and a few Revell hollowed out parabrake extensions too. I'm happy to send you some if you want them. Regards, V-P

 

Thank you for the very kind offer! Actually I already modified the parabrake extension with some judicious drilling and I think the nav lights can be fabricated with plasticard. Anyway I will keep you in mind if everything goes wrong!  :)

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1 hour ago, Rob G said:

Re the tailplanes. My Italeri F-16 build for the 80s NATO GB led me to research a bit. I found that the Revell kit has both sizes of stabilator in it, and from their representation it seems as if both the leading and trailing edges need modifying. There's photos in my GB WIP to illustrate the differences, and if you want some measurements, please say so and I can let you know. I think that unless you're an F-16 nut, or have to have it exactly correct, simply trimming off the rear end of the stabilator will do, it certainly makes a large visual difference. (And if you're an F-16 nut, why are you wasting time with the Italeri kit? :) )

 

Very interesting read: your analisys confirmed my findings, I'll do some surgey on the Italeri feathers to obtain the correct shape. Just to be sure, could you be so kind to let me know the tip and root chord of the small tailplanes? 

It's great to see other's experience of the very same kit, I'm robbing your tip about using Perfect Plastic Putty for the air intake canyons! ;)

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Hi Whirly, apologies for the late reply (I'm getting old and forgetful... don't laugh lad, it'll happen to you, too.)

 

Some measuring with digital verniers (I'm getting old and blind, too, so can't see the log scale on the old steam-powered type anymore) shows the following chords on the Revell stab - root 28.2mm, tip 8.3mm (I've rounded the 10ths, because life's too short :) )

 

I'd be removing the trailing edge excess first, using the leading edge / outboard corner as your reference point, seeing as it doesn't change. Leave a bit of extra meat if you like, as you'll have to reestablish the airfoil shape with a big file when you're done. Then measure up and cut the leading edge off if you so desire - it will be a wedge, 0mm at the tip, about 1mm or so at root. I used the back of a scalpel blade against a steel ruler to do mine and it seemed to work pretty well. Then find a big file and make it airfoil-shaped again. Have fun!

 

You're welcome to the PPP tip - I've found the product useful for that sort of filling job, as long as you can do it last so that it doesn't get soaked again (or you can give it a coat of paint, I suppose).

 

If you want drawings, I can do them no problems.

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Hi Rob,

 

no need to apologize, I've plenty of other (more pressing) things to do besides modelling as anybody who is married with a family will know! :)

I think you sent me all the information needed, I hope to use them this evening and I will report the results. 

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Finally made some progress yesterday!

 

First i played Tangram with the tailpanes ;)

I didn't follow Rob's detailed tips on how to get the early shape because I really hate reprofiling the aerofoil with sanding, so I cut the original parts in a way I could save the sections while getting the smaller area. I only sanded the leading edge towards the root to restore its thinness and had to slightly fill the joints, we'll see the outcome today:

 

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Then the fin was glued on and I added a small intake on the parabrake housing after removing the side lumps (probably this ESCI part was meant for the Norwegian Vipers)

 

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Finally I tidied up all the joints, note how much filler and Dissolved Putty went on, this kit is best avoided!

I also experimented with PPP on the tricky intake joint and it came out really nice, I only need to seal everything with some paint before washing up all the parts in preparation for painting.

 

P1090063.jpg

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Those stabs look good mate, but all the chopping would've been too much effort for me. Easier to file it to shape!

 

I managed to get away without too much filler by making lots of small corrections, trial fits  and aligning things with a lot of care. It still barks at passing cars though. (I must finish off getting the decals on mine.)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Where did my thread go??  :)

I was absorbed by heavy work commitments and I couldn't do any update here, at least I did some progress on the workbench...

 

The filled joints were tidied up and I added spines to the tailplanes since they weren't much straight anymore after my puzzle game.

 

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I told you before that this is jurassic modelling, so I chose this fossil which just screamed to be used

 

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Once assembled and painted it's not that bad, I think though that the photoetched sides are way oversized since the pilot couldn't even reach for the sidestick!

 

By the way, I have another much better kit (Hasegawa) I'd like to build later and I was wondering what are currently the best options for a resin seat (or even a complete cockpit).. Maybe one of the builders in this group can throw in his knowledge? ;)

 

P1090081.jpg 

 

Here I did the ECM bulges for the nav lights, I think they will suffice... (note in background the Scale Models feature I dug out from the darkness of my basement)

 

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Here is the finished and sealed cockpit. I'm preparing all the parts for a first white coat so we can finally start with the fun

 

P1090084.jpg

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Be advised, due to the age of the decal sheet, that you have to put a new coat of varnish on top of the decals before placing them into water, otherwise they will shatter into thousands of pieces...

 

Danny Coremans

DACO Products

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Hi Danny,

 

thank you for the precious advice! The decals have slightly yellowed so I planned to expose them to the sun for a few days and this can have negative effects on the film integrity so I already planned to give them some coats of Superscale liquid film. After reading that I will lay a few more coats for extra assurance.

Bya

Fabio

 

P.S. by the way It's great to see that Customer Care at DACO extends well over 25 years!  ;)

Edited by Whirly
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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally got time to spray the white and spent a long evening for masking: it seems quite simple but the templates provided were useful to a point, much trial and error was involved.

 

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The only saving grace in the process was the availability of Tamiya flexible masking tape: it's simply amazing, I rate it as the best new modelling product of 2016 in my opinion!

 

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On 2/3/2017 at 11:37 PM, trickyrich said:

I'm looking forward to this scheme!  :popcorn: 

 

Me too, It's taking ages to come to an end!

 

The blue is done. It was something of an odissey since I was happy to have the exact match in my drawer (revell 50) but when I opened the tin I found it was rock hard... so plan B was to use xtracolor X146: it's matched to FS 15183 but to me it looks exactly identical to RAL5012 as specified in the DACO instructions.

I opened this tin (never used) and I found it very thick... In the end I managed to push it out of my airbrush with the help of Mr.Color Levelling Thinner, but it was a struggle and every now and then I got some micro dots of darker blue on the surface, probably some pigment is refusing to mix with thoroughly.

 

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