Liquid Mask Tips?

[SteveR]

Hi everyone,

Does anyone have any experience with liquid mask for masking plastic windows?

 

I'll soon start painting my Revell Enterprise NCC1701 1/600 model and it has lots of plastic windows that I will need to cover. I'm new to modelling and this is my first model so I'm very nervous about the painting phase.

 

There are no instructions on the bottle and I've struggled to find much in the way of specific and useful info on the web. I gather that the liquid turns a clear blue colour when dry, and the bottle says "don't leave on for a long time" without saying what a 'long time' is... hours? Days?

 

I did a few tests on some spare parts using Vallego liquid mask and now I'm even more worried! Some windows came out okay, most didn't, especially the smaller round one. Often the surrounding paint is damaged. Perhaps I should have left the paint to dry longer? But the vague time warning on the bottle had me worried about that too

 

Any help/info/tips would be greatly appreciated!

The image shows the liquid mask I have and the model, but not the spare parts I've tested on. The model is lit with LEDs and glued.

Thanks

[Caerbannog]

I have made the same experience with liquid masking tape in general. It is difficult to mask precizely and the removal is troublesome too (chipping paint). For masking these windows I would cut masking tape to size and apply it to the windows or mask over the windows with tape, rub it down with a toothpic and cut along the window eges with a sharp blade. Then leave the window covered and remove the tape around the windows. When you use Tamiya tape you can take your time with painting.

 

Liquid masks can melt into the plastic when you leave it on too long (more than a week in my case). At least I have experienced this.

 

You can use liquid mask for chipping effects (applied with a sponge) or to additionally seal bubble canopies which have the edges masked with tape (tape can be tricky on sphere shapes). Well - that is what I use liquid mask for.

 

René

[SteveR]

Thanks René that's very helpful!

I think I'll forget using liquid mask for this and go with your suggestion of using Tamiya tape. It sounds like it will be much safer and easier to get consistent results in this scenario (especially for a beginner like me). I'll get some ordered and do some tests!

 

Thanks!

[Greenshirt]

For windows that small on your kit, I'd forego a mask completely and fill the hole with PVA or acrylic glue like Gators Grip. It dries clear and hard, cleans up with water if not yet cured/dry so allows you to paint and then put in the windows at the end. 

 

For larger windows i apply Tamiya tape around the edge, a thin strip, then fill in with the liquid mask. 

[SteveR]

Thanks for the tips Greenshirt,

I've just watched a video about Gators Grip on YouTube, it looks like useful stuff!

 

Though unfortunately my plastic windows are already glued in (they can only be glue in from the inside), I've also added a frosted paper backing that dissipates the light from the LEDs. The model is also already glued shut and the seams sanded.

 

From the inside... each clear plastic window part fills several different windows (left image), so you glue in one piece and it fills a bunch of windows. The right image shows the same area (again from the inside) with the frosted paper backing (grease-proof paper)

 

 

Whatever I do, I will now need to apply it to the pretty much finished and sealed model. I'm thinking I'll try Tamiya tape first. In hindsight it might have been better to paint areas of the model that have windows before glueing them in and sealing the model...maybe. At least, it might have left me with more options. Too late now though!

Thanks for the help guys

[Greenshirt]

Right.  Then I would consider Tamiya Tape the best solution at this point.  I'd cut a strip as wide as the common height of a series of windows, then cut the length of each to fit the individual window.  

 

I'd also consider filling in the seam (if any) between window and hull with Gators Grip to allow it to be sanded smooth with no seams.  Then apply the tape.  

[SteveR]

Quote

I'd also consider filling in the seam (if any) between window and hull with Gators Grip to allow it to be sanded smooth with no seams.  Then apply the tape.

 

I will definitely look at doing this as there are small seams between the window and hull, filling with Gators Grip would make it perfect, and with a perfectly level surface it'll be easier to apply and remove the masking tape!

 

Excellent help! Thanks