Another glue question.

[Vinnie]

What glue is suggested for parts with a tiny point of contact? An example is the Rebecca aerial I'm trying to fix to my Revell Lancaster. I thought I'd cracked it using superglue, but after leaving it overnight I tried painting it and it fell off.

 

Thanks

[Greenshirt]

I use liquid cement for plastic to plastic. Using an old paint brush I put a small drop in the hole, wait about "5 mississippis" then insert. I use Tamiya thin mostly and this is all it takes. 

 

If resin or metal to plastic, I use superglue. 

[little-cars]

You could also try Gator  Grip Glue ....

 

Paul

[LaurieS]

Vinnie you could try the new glue type. Place a little dot of the glue which will stay inert.

 

Place your aerial on the dot of glue. Then with the ultra violet pen light supplied with the

package direct the light on the spot of glue which instantly solidifies.

 

Not use it in anger but a couple of experimental fores have proved very successful.

 

To note that the glue must be able to see the ultra violet light to work. In a hidden joint

it will not work.

 

Laurie

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=ultra+violet+light+glue+uk

[bootneck]

1 hour ago, LaurieS said:

To note that the glue must be able to see the ultra violet light to work. In a hidden jointit will not work.

This is a very important point that Laurie  makes.  The 'glue' is liquid resin and will remain in a liquid state until it is exposed to the UV light. which makes it harden almost instantly.  It is no use as a glue for sticking something like layers of plastic etc., as the liquid needs to be exposed to the UV light. Any area within the layers that the UV light cannot penetrate will mean that part will remain liquid and not bond.

 

I like the UV resin method, especially when filling small holes because, once it has set, it can be filed, sanded and painted to match its surrounding material.

 

One area that I have found it really useful is for glueing/bonding canopies.  The resin is clear therefore it also acts as a filler and blends any gaps between the fuselage and canopy.  It can also be used as clear glazing for small window apertures.

 

Mike

[LaurieS]

One real advantage of the resin/uva glue is its use for rigging. Admirably a boon as those who have used C/A for this

purpose will find.

 

My first experiment with the stuff. Just the smallest of blobs of the resin. One hand with the UVL source the other plunging the

end of the rigging into the resin. UVA on instant success. But abrading the glue point is essential to get the best possible bond.

 

Laurie

 

Edited January 15, 2017 by LaurieS

[Vinnie]

Thanks for the advice everyone. Laurie, I followed your link and I assume it's the 'Loca' UVA adhesive you refer to? I will try all of the suggestions. My one reservation is that I've used Gator glue, but it seems to expand so much during curing I hadn't considered it for delicate fixing.

[LaurieS]

1 hour ago, Vinnie said:

Thanks for the advice everyone. Laurie, I followed your link and I assume it's the 'Loca' UVA adhesive you refer to? I will try all of the suggestions. My one reservation is that I've used Gator glue, but it seems to expand so much during curing I hadn't considered it for delicate fixing.

 

You may well have made the same mistake I made Vinnie.

 

There are two Gaytor glues on the market. One is the one that you probably have. It is mainly for wood etc as it expands into the

joint to give a really strong adhesive. That is the one I first got hold of.

 

Until I found the Gator Glue everyone  talked about at that time. It is Gaytor's Grip Acrylic Hobby Glue. From what I can

see it is PVA with some addition. Used for transparent parts it can be removed before the final cure with water.

 

Laurie