larchiefeng Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the info Dan. I have some 50/50 and 60/40 along with a liquid flux in a needle point applicatior bottle. Yeah, it's the American Beauty with the tweezer hand set. It should work well with my upcoming project in the next week or so. You're doing a great job of redoing this Bugatti and elevating with your scratch work! Edited March 12, 2017 by larchiefeng Spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted March 11, 2017 Share Posted March 11, 2017 HI Keith, I solder now with silver solder paste for jewelers I use the MK3 set from Cookson-Claal: http://www.cookson-clal.com/materiel-bijouterie/Distributeur-manuel-de-brasure-modle-MK3-avec-1-seringue-Pte-Argent-prcode-999-CIG With a Proxxon Torch which heat until 1200°c Soft soldering is now devoted to temporary assemblies. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Good information about the soldering paste. This is an interesting applicator too. I have a couple of torches and a regular soldering iron along with the resistance soldering station so, I have a few options depending on what and where I'm going to solder something. Oh, BTW, my name is Wayne if you were directing that to me. Thanks to both of you for the info. w 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 5 hours ago, larchiefeng said: Good information about the soldering paste. This is an interesting applicator too. I have a couple of torches and a regular soldering iron along with the resistance soldering station so, I have a few options depending on what and where I'm going to solder something. Oh, BTW, my name is Wayne if you were directing that to me. Thanks to both of you for the info. w Sorry Wayne for my mistake...I just achieved to rectify my post. The advantage of the soldering paste is that you apply it with a syringe needle, and so you use very few product (fortunately, because it's rather expansive), ad so you get a very clean welding. It remains very few work later to clean the surfaces, and the wekding is extremely strong. As far a s I know, it is possible to solder aluminium too. A drawback however: - the high temperature needed: 630°C, so the brass or copper is annealed and loose partially its mechanical strenght...For us, modelers of sttatic models, it's not a big problem. - It turn ewpansive if you want to solder large pieces The MK3 kit costs almost 82 € The paste syringe almost 33 € 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 I can see a use for it where you really need the strength of a silver solder joint but, as you point out the heat required to melt it wouldn't do anything adjacent to it any good. The cost and getting it here in the States is a bit of a factor as well but, using a soldering paste in general might be a good idea. Put the paste on the joint and then hit the area with the resistance soldering probe and it's done without much of a mess. Thanks Thierry, you have given me some good ideas. Dan, sorry, I didn't mean to high jack your thread and I appreciate both of you sharing your techniques and materials that you use to make all those wonderful little scratch built brass pieces. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted March 12, 2017 Author Share Posted March 12, 2017 Don't worry Wayne, you are welcome! And sorry too to you, I use standard flux for plumbing (DIY) with a tip of trace as applicator... Unfortunately, I don't really understand the use of silver soldering for static models! Sorry CrazyCranck. The best material, for micro silver soldering, made in France (Yeah!): https://www.multirex.net/micro-chalumeau-2800,fr,4,200024.cfm Well, first many thanks to CrazyCrank which me discover the protective (or protection?) plates on the Bugatti's chassis! Thanks also to Mister Windgroove, it's his technical solution for the louvres: Dan. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Dan, out of curiosity, which Wingrove book was the louvres in? I kinda remember reading that he had acquired some little machine with a die that allowed him to make the louvred panels. I'd like to go back and read about a different method. Both of you guys are really elevating the Pocher Bugatti with each of your builds. I'm selling mine! w Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parryj Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 4 hours ago, larchiefeng said: I can see a use for it where you really need the strength of a silver solder joint but, as you point out the heat required to melt it wouldn't do anything adjacent to it any good. The cost and getting it here in the States is a bit of a factor as well but, using a soldering paste in general might be a good idea. Put the paste on the joint and then hit the area with the resistance soldering probe and it's done without much of a mess. Thanks Thierry, you have given me some good ideas. Dan, sorry, I didn't mean to high jack your thread and I appreciate both of you sharing your techniques and materials that you use to make all those wonderful little scratch built brass pieces. Don't mean to hijack either Dan, but Wayne, if you're interested - you have an excellent supply business for paste solder in the US - check out Rio Grande Jewelry https://www.riogrande.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted March 12, 2017 Share Posted March 12, 2017 Parry, thanks. It looks like a good variety for different uses and temperature melting points. I actually got inspired to go pull out my Wingrove books and I found a lot of answers to my questions in there. When I first bought the books I wasn't doing much scratch building of anything and a lot of it went right over my head. Now, I can appreciate it and understand the process better and it makes what Dan and Thierry's doing more interesting. As much as I enjoy the builds, I really like the process and how it's done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted March 18, 2017 Author Share Posted March 18, 2017 Welcome to the hijackers! It's a life for a decent post... Louvres, more: http://www.geraldwingrove.com/Bentley_Build/Gallery_-11.html Today, surgery: Another way for (small) louvres, mine... And, what a surprise(!), the end of the rear of the exhaust line: Have a nice modeling WE! Dan. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted March 21, 2017 Author Share Posted March 21, 2017 On wheels! Dan. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy vd M. Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 Simply beautiful Dan, that's a lot of detail work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CrazyCrank Posted March 21, 2017 Share Posted March 21, 2017 I haven't understood Gerald Windgrove's method to punch louvers ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted March 25, 2017 Author Share Posted March 25, 2017 Thank you Roy... Today, I'm sure you will understand why I have worked on the gearbox: Front shock absorbers also: Parts... Hand brake and the shifter will be chromed: Milling in the mass... So, I'm tired of the mechanics, I'am going to the bodywork!It appears some work is needed, the yellow one is the real car... Thanks for looking! Dan. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted March 26, 2017 Share Posted March 26, 2017 Beautiful work on the mechanics and the shift lever and e-brake! Even though the differences on the body are subtle and not readily apparent at first glance they, are pretty substantial if you are planning on undertaking a full correction. This is going to be a lot of cutting and body work to make the necessary corrections. How far are you planning on going? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted March 27, 2017 Author Share Posted March 27, 2017 As far as I can larchiefeng! First step a piece of wood. To stiffen the structure and also to rectify the curvature of the hood : Done... Now, new angle. The choice is 32°, let's go! Surgery on the door too... And the partial result: The new firewall is coming too... Dan. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted March 27, 2017 Share Posted March 27, 2017 Well, you are a dare devil. Courageous to put the chainsaw into this body. Will lead to an enormous amount of work later on to get everything fitting again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted March 30, 2017 Author Share Posted March 30, 2017 Thanks Poul, I agree with you some work is needed... Work on the body, some piece of wood too, of course! Why, for the doors: Doors, but Bugatti's doors! In the real life: I agree, we can done more simple, french people you know... In 1/8 scale, mine: Dan. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpnuts Posted March 30, 2017 Share Posted March 30, 2017 Incredible work there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 This is some brave work on the roof line and doors. It really takes guts to start cutting up a Bugatti body and embarking these types of modifications! However, after having seen your work so far, I'm sure that you are more than up to the task. It's very entertaining watching your work and following your thought process on how you go about making the changes. I especially liked the pie cut on the roof and then drawing it down enough to get the correct angle on the roof. This is some good stuff! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 Thank you very much knuts and larchiefeng, it's a real challenge, I agree... Today, some settings and some pieces of wood, again: Dan. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roy vd M. Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Nice wood structure, is it pear? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PROPELLER Posted April 2, 2017 Author Share Posted April 2, 2017 My god Roy, are you joking? Oak of course... And a mistake! Hard to work with, but in the real life in Molsheim... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
larchiefeng Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 Nothing like building the whole interior structure from scratch. Oak is pretty hard wood but, at least it will hold up and give you a solid platform. The body is looking very good and will be well worth the effort when completed.Even though, you and Thierry are working on the Bugattis and Codger his Rolls, these builds all give me good ideas and ways to deal with some of the challenges of the F40; it all translates! Great work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pouln Posted April 2, 2017 Share Posted April 2, 2017 I'm in awe with what you are doing here. You show it to us as if it is the simplest thing to do. A wooden frame for the interior. Who would have thought. Amazing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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