Phone Phixer Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 On 2/22/2017 at 7:19 AM, Uncle Uncool said: Me nay get it, Robbie... Can't seem to be able to fathom it quite right; would ya please mark 'em places in the root on 'em kit unmodified elevator where ya've removed 1mm from both the leadin' 'n' trailin' edges? Thanks, mate. Unc2 Ey up unc. Oooh, you've got me having to be all computerish and having to do special effects. I'll start with the full explanation copied from StephenMG's thread. Tailplane - it's been said that the kit has the tailplanes are mounted 2 to 3mm too far aft and that they should be moved forward. On the face of it this looks like sound advice as the trailing edge of the tailplanes is about 2mm further aft that the trailing edge of the fin at their junction. However that oversimplifies the problem and simply moving the entire tailplane forward 2mm introduces other issues. The problem with the Academy kit is that they have the tailplane too broad in chord at its inboard end by about 2mm. On the real aircraft, if the acorn fairing were to be removed, the trailing edges of the fin and tailplanes would meet at one point. Also the hinge lines of the elevators and rudder would, if extended, also meet at another point. In this latter respect the Academy kit has it correct - the hinge lines would meet which indicates that the elevators are too broad at their inboard end and the fixed part of the tailplane is also too broad. I believe the whole thing is still mounted a tiny bit too far aft so the solution is to remove some of the taper on the elevator so that the inboard end is 1mm less, remove some of the leading edge at its inboard end (another 1mm), then move the whole thing forward by about 0.5mm max. The tips of the tailplane are also the wrong shape, being too rounded. Now my picture. Hows that for ya. Clear as mud? Rob. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phone Phixer Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 Next up was the bits under the fuselage, the main item is the airbrake Academy want you to fit it in this position. The advice is this is 5mm to far to the rear. If you look at this picture of the real thing, the airbrake is forward a bit and the hydraulic actuator is visible. http://cdn.airplane-pictures.net/images/uploaded-images/2014/8/12/443385.jpg So moving the whole thing forward 5mm gets this effect. Now the cockpit needs assembling prior to the nose being fitted. I made some changes to the instrument panel and coaming. The OCU Hunters had the gun sights removed as these were not ever required. So I cut out the sights and made a plasticard fairing to make the coaming a solid piece across. Now I get to have a break from filling and sanding. Time to paint the pit. Hmm, that will be black, with a subtle shade of black then! Rob. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 8 hours ago, Phone Phixer said: Oooh, you've got me having to be all computerish and having to do special effects. Hows that for ya. Clear as mud? Hi, Robbie, mate! Yeh, it's as clear as meltwater now, me'd say. Thanks a helluva lot for havin' gone computerish to do some special effects for me. As a piece o' advice, if I may - provided it ain't too late for it, me's placed a coupla aluminium telescopin' tube under the cockpit of 'em Heritage resin forward fuselage 'n' radome in order to strengthen the union between 'em both pieces. Lemme go computerish in order to do some special effects for ye in return: If ya didn't happen to have 'em telescopin' tube bits, then a coupla 1" hypodermic needle bits will do. Me's found 'em union nay bein' too strong otherwise. Hope it helps, Rob. Thanks once again. Cheers, Unc2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phone Phixer Posted March 8, 2017 Author Share Posted March 8, 2017 Small update. Pit and seats all painted I broke the top off one of the control columns while fettling the cockpit. The carpet monster failed to swallow it though, I'll glue it back when I've finished in that area. I added the metal pins to support the nose joint as recommended by unc. I added the top part of the harness using wine bottle foil. The resin seats just have the securing straps (the white straps) that hold the para pack into the seat structure. Also added the main oxy hoses that come up the side of the seat and lay on the PSP cushion. Still got to add some leg restraint lines at the front of the seat pan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phone Phixer Posted March 19, 2017 Author Share Posted March 19, 2017 Time at the bench has been a bit short lately. I have managed to attach the forward nose section to complete the main fuselage assembly. The camera batteries were flat when it came time to record the initial join. There was a small gap around the join line, but not too bad. A small amount of filler and some gentle sanding soon had the whole thing blended in. Then it was on with the gun fairing. These were empty as no guns were fitted. I have been making attempts to create some of the intakes that are missing from the kit. Starting with the one below the port side of the cockpit. Using one of the heads from the 3 in rockets in the kit, this was drilled out and rotated to form a conical scoop. On studying it after, it appears to be a little too large so I'm following the same process, but reducing the size. That's all for this little update. Rob. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 On 19/03/2017 at 1:50 AM, Phone Phixer said: I have been making attempts to create some of the intakes that are missing from the kit. Starting with the one below the port side of the cockpit. Using one of the heads from the 3 in rockets in the kit, this was drilled out and rotated to form a conical scoop. On studying it after, it appears to be a little too large so I'm following the same process, but reducing the size. Noooiiiceee work, Robbie! Didn't know 'bout that intake down there. We're on kinda the same tune; me's used the rocket heads on 'em Academy Hunter kit, split into halves 'n' hollowed out, to replicate those intakes below the lower leadin' edge on the Mirage IIIC/E/5 wings. The bits seem to be very suitable to replicate intakes. Me's still got lots of 'em left. Hope ye find some time soon to keep on with yer build. Cheers, my mate! Unc2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted March 31, 2017 Share Posted March 31, 2017 That's all looking very ship-shape and Bristol-fashion. What's not to love about a build that starts with such rampant wielding of the saw! Nice one Rob. Tony 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phone Phixer Posted April 14, 2017 Author Share Posted April 14, 2017 It's been a while since I've had time for the Hunter. Working on the windscreen and canopy. These come as a vacformed single unit that is very thin and fragile. It needed cutting to separate the 2 parts and some plasticard frame work to strengthen the parts. This makes them look more realistic and will support the canopy as this will be posed open. The canopy also got some de-mist ducting and rear view mirrors made from copper wire and scrap PE. I added the canopy locking linkage and standby compass to the windscreen. The windscreen was glued onto the fuselage. Filler is needed to blend in the frame to the upper surface. Still need to add the fairing for the windscreen wipers, at the base of the center frame. Then I think I should be ready to put a coat of primer on. Rob. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phone Phixer Posted April 16, 2017 Author Share Posted April 16, 2017 Wiper fairing done and the whole thing given a primer coat from a Tamiya rattle can. This has shown up a few area's that need a bit of work before starting on the camo. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phone Phixer Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 Getting some paint on now. First the dark sea grey. Then masked up ready for the dark green. I'm starting to build the undercarriage and have a question. The main and nose legs seem to be an aluminium/silver colour on most pictures. But I look at this picture of XL573, the aircraft that this will be and the legs look to be the light grey that the Buccs had. https://abpic.co.uk/pictures/full_size_0129/1194881-large.jpg Is it a trick of the light, or could they be grey. Any thoughts? Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted April 21, 2017 Share Posted April 21, 2017 (edited) Nay waaaaayyy...!!! Robbie! Me thought ya'd given up on this build. Thank 'em Heavens above that ya didn't. I think yer T.7 is lookin' awesome. Will have to order yet another conversion kit from Ian. I like how ya've made the framin' for the vac-form parts. Yeh, the windshield/canopy piece is a fragile thing to deal with; I've botched both 'em windshield 'n' canopy on my first attempt at cuttin' 'em apart. Thank Gawd that there's two pieces on 'em kit! Will work 'em wingtips on my next project as well. They do look different on yer build. Also, it would be nice to get some 1/48 Chilean markings for my next build. I've used some Aztek sheet which had markings for the single seat version of Hunters, along with markings for the Falkland War A-4B/C Scooters 'n' a Mirage 5COAM. 16 hours ago, Phone Phixer said: Is it a trick of the light, or could they be grey. Any thoughts? They look grey to me, Robbie. Nice scheme, by the way. Cheers, Robbie, my mate! Unc2 Edited April 21, 2017 by Uncle Uncool Linkie dear nay workin' as me wanted it to... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phone Phixer Posted April 21, 2017 Author Share Posted April 21, 2017 Thanks unc. I'm glad it's not my eyes going! Ha Ha, I know what you mean about the canopy, having 2 in the kit saved my bacon!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phone Phixer Posted April 29, 2017 Author Share Posted April 29, 2017 Main painting done. Now for decals and wash. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phone Phixer Posted May 13, 2017 Author Share Posted May 13, 2017 Back again. Decals are on and gloss coat applied. I used the Academy kit stencils and the Fantasy Printshop Airfile decals for the roundels and aircraft serials. The Airfile decals are good, but have some suspect research and I think are a tiny bit oversize. The supplied serial number for the rear fuselage has a white surround (items 47), the real aircraft never had these, but luckily XL573 appears with earlier markings so I could use the plain black version (items 75). An example of the oversize decals is the WC code to go on the nosewheel door (the OCU Hunters never had codes on the NW door). Just how should that fit? Now to put the wash on. Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phone Phixer Posted May 21, 2017 Author Share Posted May 21, 2017 Aaaand it was all going so well!!! Applied a dark dirt wash and some weathering/grime. Gave it a coat of matt varnish, very happy with the results. After all this I needed to tidy up the paintwork in the undercarriage bays, being aware of the underwing serial number decals in this area I was very careful. I removed plenty of the adhesive from the Tamiya tape prior to masking the area. Alas there was still too much stickyness for these decals, and off they came. Now, I have spare letters and numbers on the decal sheet to replace these. The big pain, is the tape also got one of the OCU badges on the nose. I have the piece still on the Tamiya tape in soak at the moment. Does anyone have any tips on how to dissolve the adhesive or any other way to get the decal off the tape. Any suggestions will be greatly received. Rob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted May 26, 2017 Share Posted May 26, 2017 Aw, mein Gawd... She's looking awesome, Robbie! Bummer about that OCU badge sticking on the Tamiya tape. Well, if you couldn't source another decal for it, I would try and make the rest of the badge on the tape to stick on the nose by carefully smearing some glue on the fuselage first, then overlaping the Tamiya tape on it, making sure it fits the rest of the decal on it. I can't think of any way to dissolve the tack on the Tamiya tape in order to free the rest of the badge. Has the decal freed some while soaking? Did you try the SOL/SET solutions? Spoke to the blokes at Q.M.T. so that they'd make a resin cockpit for the T.7, as they did with the Lightning T.4, but I don't think they listened. Cheers, Rob! Unc2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted May 27, 2017 Share Posted May 27, 2017 I had somehow missed this, but since I have the Heritage T8N conversion and same F6 in my stash, it's great to see it turning out so beautifully - and I have duly noted the assorted bits of advice. Proper job! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted May 28, 2017 Share Posted May 28, 2017 (edited) 23 hours ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said: but since I have the Heritage T8N conversion and same F6 in my stash So, what are you waiting to start building it, mate? Ah, the Royal Navy T8, with the 899 NAS scheme... Wish there were a T.7 with that beautiful scheme. Think Ian ran out of T8 conversion kits by now? Edited May 28, 2017 by Uncle Uncool Typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phone Phixer Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 Well as I pretty much expected, I couldn't remove the decal from the tape. So I ended up painting in the missing parts, If you look from about 3 feet away and squint it looks OK. She now has legs and pylons. And tanks and seats. Into the final stages now. Just need to make the windscreen wipers, upper anti-col light, pitot and canopy. At my speed, about another month then! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted June 3, 2017 Share Posted June 3, 2017 I looked at it through the long distance section of my varifocals and it was perfect! John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Uncool Posted June 4, 2017 Share Posted June 4, 2017 On 02/06/2017 at 10:18 PM, Phone Phixer said: At my speed, about another month then! That's good, because I'll be sad when this one's finished. You've done an excellent job so far, Robbie! What is the sound track by Mobi where a two-seat Hunter is shown called like? An awful difficult task to remove a decal from tape, if not impossible, but the badge does look darn okay. Cheers, Rob! Unc2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phone Phixer Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 Glad you've been enjoying the build unc. Unfortunately for once, I've got my finger out and got on with the work. The windscreen wipers were made from stretched sprue and wine bottle foil. The upper anti col light was carved from clear sprue & painted with Tamiya clear red. The wipers were attached. Anti col light on. Lid on. Finally the pitot tube and wing aerials added. The pitot was from Master Model, a huge improvement from the kit version. The aerials were stretched sprue. And with that, I'm calling this complete. I'll get some pictures up on RFI. Cheers Rob. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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