Jump to content

Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, Murrodels said:

Also what kind of varnish did you use after the splinter camo went on? It's a very nice finish.

 

Yes its the one that revell reboxed mate. Can be had very cheap now and again 👍🏿

 

No varnish yet, that's just the AK air colours out of the jar. 

 

There will be a gloss sprayed all over once touch ups are done (next post) to seal it all in before the markings are masked and sprayed with the montex set 👍🏿

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

So as I alluded to above, 

 

I managed to get an hour in over lunch today (Friday 10th)

 

Here's areas of re-work required, not shown last night...  

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg


Worked on those areas after I did this - 

band needs to go on first as the crosses overlap it. Decided to mask and spray rather than use supplied decal for it. White first to kill off the green. Then the yellow. Lastly a drop of white added. 

Oh also that tamiya making tape with the plastic sheeting on is my new favourite thing. Great second line masking after your initial strips are done 👍🏿

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg


Oh and lastly one of the repairs...

 

image.jpg

 

Not bad all that for an hours work. 

 

Thats it till tomorrow, of out tonight. 

 

 

  • Like 10
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Masking of markings. 

This was on Saturday and sunday 👍🏿

 

sorry pics are only going on now. 

 

Anyways since this is had some touch ups eg: edges of gear bays etc and the inside of the bay doors and u/c legs done in 02. Props had the white tips masked off and 70 on. Then the whole lots been glossed, stencil decals on then glossed again. Now waiting for weathering washes. 

 

Chow for now! (As he eats a chow

mein)

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

Edited by Tony Oliver
Pic order
  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here it is ready for washes. 

 

The ak panel liner range will be tried out on this, keeping with the ak products theme of this build. The 5 shades of washes they do works out quite well for all the colours present. Will use the sand/desert on the 04 yellow. Rest are pretty self explanatory 👍🏿

 

image.jpg

 

This should keep me busy over the weekend...

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Coming along nicely. 

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

Now fully cleaned up and Will all be sealed in a final matt coat later when I do some other spraying too. 

 

That will cure for a couple days then its finishing touches like streaking, fading & exhaust stains etc along with final assembly. 

Edited by Tony Oliver
  • Like 8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Learstang said:

Brilliant work there! I'd get back to mine if I could only get over my fear of masking off all those clear parts.

 

Regards,

 

Jason

 

We'll have to wait and see when I peel all those off, could be garbage yet! :tmi:

 

Fingers crossed though, biggest masking job I've ever done so far...

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking superb!

 

How are you finding the AK Paints? I've never tried them but have been looking at the SEA set.  That Tamiya tape looks fab - will definitely invest in some of that!

 

Phil

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

52 minutes ago, Booty003 said:

 

How are you finding the AK Paints?

 

 

Not too bad to be honest mate... 

 

All these eyedropper type acrylics are much of a muchness to me.

 

They Don't need much thinning to spray,  buts its cold in the garage  so I imagine it would be a different story in the summer. 

 

I'd say from my usage the ak are about on par with vallejo model air, but satin. Most model air I have used dry flat. 

 

They're not as tough as xtracrylix, but Ak are better than the mig ammo paints I have used. They are smoother than hataka also. 

 

So a good compromise because I really like Xtracrylics, but on the downside they are hard work for soft edge stuff, and work best for masking or single colours. I need to persevere with Xtracrylics more. 

 

All in the these ak have a balance of both, with average toughness and free hand capacity and dry to a nice smooth satin finish. 

 

Hope all this rambling is of some use! 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers Tony, very thorough and informative as I was looking at the Mig paints as well.  I have been using Xtracrylix but decanted into dropper bottles with a splash of Vallejo thinner/airbrush cleaner and they work really well.  Good to know about the robustness of them as well, Good Man.

 

Phil

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Booty003 said:

Good to know about the robustness of them as well

 

Yeah as with any water based acrylic they're fine as long as applied over a decent primer and left to dry long enough. 

 

They stood up to the masking test well as you can see from this build, what with the camo being all hard edged masked and the markings masked too 👍🏿

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Update- 

 

So popped the glazing off (was secured with a drop of white glue) and had a monster de masking session and a few clean ups & touchups. 

 

Then put all the small cockpit bits in. Needs some pigments mud/dust type in it now I think. 

 

Also exhausts are on. 

 

image.jpg

 

Seat and control column in. 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

image.jpg

 

Instument panel. Gauges glossed. 

image.jpg

 

Guest star CAG vf32 (95% done) for scale.

image.jpg


Last bits to do apart from final assembly is some fading and streaks with oils and then exhaust stains under wings. 

 

Want this to be all wrapped up by Sunday night as have other things I want to be getting on with...

Edited by Tony Oliver
Pics
  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That looks fantastic, but could you explain why you didn't fit the internals and secure the cockpit glazing permanently before painting? I usually build WWI types so I'm not used to the different techniques used with glazing! Many thanks,

 

Ian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, limeypilot said:

That looks fantastic, but could you explain why you didn't fit the internals and secure the cockpit glazing permanently before painting? I usually build WWI types so I'm not used to the different techniques used with glazing! Many thanks,

 

Ian

 

Hi Ian it was mainly as a precaution in case anything went wrong which it invariably does... 

 

That amount of assembled glazing is never going to be watertight and overspray will work its way in, so was able to easily remove said unwanted paint on the insides with a cotton bud/q-tip and some ipa. (Never could reach in everywhere through the top hole if it was permanently fixed with all furniture in the way. 

 

Also to be able to mask off the two holes (nose gun and pilot hatch) from the inside to get a decent (but still not good enough!) seal. 

 

And because the nose mg gun has to be added from the inside too, didn't fancy that poking out the whole time from early on...

 

Also can get cracking on with main paintjob sooner and then can work on other interior bits between paint layers drying, rather than having to have the cockpit 100% complete to glue it all in & seal it up to progress...

 

Plus a couple other reasons that escape me and/or I dont want to bore everyone with my ramblings...

 

Hope this helps. 

 

Tony

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...