Parafilm.

[Aerofix]

I read in an article that this stuff is useful for masking cockpits. I duly bought some and have found it impossible to use! I am currently building a Tamiya F4U Corsair. When I eventually persuaded it to stick to the canopy, I found it impossible to burnish along the frame lines prior to trimming. I suppose I could glue it on but that might make things worse! I'm sure someone out there has the answer. On a lighter note, I have found that maskol can be used to tack a canopy on during painting, avoiding the need to mess around with sponges and masking in the cockpit. I guess it's similar to PVA but much easier to remove. Just apply a small amount and wait a couple of minutes for it to take hold.

[Coors54]

Have you stretched it? It needs pulling to about a quarter of its original thickness then I think you will find it "sticks", trim to suit. I still use Tamiya tape though........

 

Dave

[thorfinn]

I have found Parafilm ideal for use in 'compound curve' situations like spinners, cowlings and such, since it will stretch a bit and 'grab' at the same time. Also great for long fuselage areas, and can be cut for patterns like Viggen-type Swedish splinter schemes. Haven't tried it for canopies, since I have better luck with opaque tape for masking clear parts.

I have occasionally found incidences when, even properly stretched, it simply would not stick---usually with flat or satin finishes, but sometimes on glossy ones as well. Other than the standard logic about limiting skin oils from fingerprints and the like, I haven't found any 'magic tricks' to overcome that difficulty.

Edited January 8, 2017 by thorfinn
typo

[Peter Marshall]

2 minutes ago, thorfinn said:

I have found Parafilm ideal for use in 'compound curve' situations like spinners, cowlings and such, since it will stretch a bit and 'grab' at the same time. Also great for long fuselage areas, and can be cut for patterns like Viggen-type Swedish splinter schemes. Haven't tried it for canopies, since I have better luck with opaque tape for masking clear parts.

I have occasionally found incidences when, even properly stretched, it simply would not stick---usually with flat or satin finishes, but sometimes on glossy ones as well. Other than the standard logic about limiting skin oils from fingerprints and the like, I haven't found any 'magic tricks' to overcome that difficulty.

 

You have to ensure it's the right side (the waxy side protected by paper), and make sure it's warmed with your finger - softens the wax and gets it to stick

[Vicarage Vee]

I've never tried it because I left my time of having a 'readily available source' before returning to modelling, but if Parafilm works, Nescofilm should be even better, it's thinner and I always preferred it (for its intended application) to Parafilm.

As mentioned above, stretched and placed on the right way up it should work fine.

[Aerofix]

Thanks chaps, David

[MalX]

Copydex rubber carpet glue is brilliant.............esp for something like a Vulcan bomber

[speedbird]

Can copydex be painted onto the model and then the camouflage pattern cut out? What's it like on canopies? Finally does it effect paint, especially acrylics?