Aerofix Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I read in an article that this stuff is useful for masking cockpits. I duly bought some and have found it impossible to use! I am currently building a Tamiya F4U Corsair. When I eventually persuaded it to stick to the canopy, I found it impossible to burnish along the frame lines prior to trimming. I suppose I could glue it on but that might make things worse! I'm sure someone out there has the answer. On a lighter note, I have found that maskol can be used to tack a canopy on during painting, avoiding the need to mess around with sponges and masking in the cockpit. I guess it's similar to PVA but much easier to remove. Just apply a small amount and wait a couple of minutes for it to take hold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coors54 Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Have you stretched it? It needs pulling to about a quarter of its original thickness then I think you will find it "sticks", trim to suit. I still use Tamiya tape though........ Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thorfinn Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 (edited) I have found Parafilm ideal for use in 'compound curve' situations like spinners, cowlings and such, since it will stretch a bit and 'grab' at the same time. Also great for long fuselage areas, and can be cut for patterns like Viggen-type Swedish splinter schemes. Haven't tried it for canopies, since I have better luck with opaque tape for masking clear parts. I have occasionally found incidences when, even properly stretched, it simply would not stick---usually with flat or satin finishes, but sometimes on glossy ones as well. Other than the standard logic about limiting skin oils from fingerprints and the like, I haven't found any 'magic tricks' to overcome that difficulty. Edited January 8, 2017 by thorfinn typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Marshall Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 2 minutes ago, thorfinn said: I have found Parafilm ideal for use in 'compound curve' situations like spinners, cowlings and such, since it will stretch a bit and 'grab' at the same time. Also great for long fuselage areas, and can be cut for patterns like Viggen-type Swedish splinter schemes. Haven't tried it for canopies, since I have better luck with opaque tape for masking clear parts. I have occasionally found incidences when, even properly stretched, it simply would not stick---usually with flat or satin finishes, but sometimes on glossy ones as well. Other than the standard logic about limiting skin oils from fingerprints and the like, I haven't found any 'magic tricks' to overcome that difficulty. You have to ensure it's the right side (the waxy side protected by paper), and make sure it's warmed with your finger - softens the wax and gets it to stick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicarage Vee Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 I've never tried it because I left my time of having a 'readily available source' before returning to modelling, but if Parafilm works, Nescofilm should be even better, it's thinner and I always preferred it (for its intended application) to Parafilm. As mentioned above, stretched and placed on the right way up it should work fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aerofix Posted January 8, 2017 Author Share Posted January 8, 2017 Thanks chaps, David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MalX Posted January 8, 2017 Share Posted January 8, 2017 Copydex rubber carpet glue is brilliant.............esp for something like a Vulcan bomber Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedbird Posted January 9, 2017 Share Posted January 9, 2017 Can copydex be painted onto the model and then the camouflage pattern cut out? What's it like on canopies? Finally does it effect paint, especially acrylics? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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