Christer A Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 We're talking tips about tips aren't we? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 2 hours ago, TheBaron said: This addition to your Burgess Shale diorama is progressing beautifully Ced: http://palaeo.gly.bris.ac.uk/palaeofiles/lagerstatten/Burgess/ As discoverer of this life-form, the honour of naming it is yours! Tony Um, er, crayfish-like, blade tip posts, has to have my name as part of it... "Cedtipopod"? Pathetic, still... 1 hour ago, bbudde said: Hello, like to see how it turns out with the primer, but shouln't be a problem with that. The snow missed Münster last night beeing just a rainy night. I don't need much snow this year, so finger crossed. But if, this would be an option: http://de.webfail.com/0fe541f5e07 Thanks Benedikt. The primer has been allowed despite my 'old school hairy brush' build as an educational interlude for me. I've now brushed the Tamiya yellow (see below). I love the link That should get 'the Greens' arguing... "Look at that old Volvo - disgusting fuel consumption!" "Ah yes, but it has a wood burning stove". 1 hour ago, Leonl said: Never knew that tips could cause so much attention! We are talking of tips? Thanks Leon - sorry, it's my fault. As a hopefully-soon-to-be-retired systems man I HAVE to have a system. My past performance on tips has been 'below par' IMO and needs attention. I'm getting it now. Almost. Somewhat confused and diverted by having to make love to a beautiful woman (not again) and digging ditches but I think I'm getting there... 29 minutes ago, Christer A said: We're talking tips about tips aren't we? thanks Christer! Back to the tips (no, not now Claudia*, I'm busy). Tamiya yellow (with a bit of red added) brushed on: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Went on nicely with the Tamiya brush but, as Rob warned, don't try to do two coats. Not intentionally out of focus, honest. * Other beautiful women are available. You wish. 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexN Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Ced's wee beastie certainly is reminiscent of Hallucinogenia, which, from memory, turned out to be simply another bit of another organism (Anomalocaris?). It's all beautifully described in the late Stephen J. Gould's Wonderful Life. Then there's the Ediacaran Fauna from the Flinders Ranges in South Australia, which is earlier than the Burgess Shale Fauna, and even weirder. Speaking of hallucinations and weird - that Humbrol yellow takes the cake (and probably glows in the dark, too). I remember having similar problems with the enamel version on the old Airfix 1/72 Tiger Moth - it got sanded back to remove the lumps and acted as a primer/undercoat for Humbrol gloss yellow...my first and rather unhappy introduction to 'modern' modelling paints. Aren't things supposed to improve over time? Looking much better cleaned up and with white Stynylrez, Ced! Cheers, Alex. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 1 hour ago, CedB said: Um, er, crayfish-like, blade tip posts Cedipede! Clamps its prey in a (Berna) vice-like grip and files their flash off! Tony 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob85 Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Fine set of tips Ced! Well done... Rob 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 Nice and yes never do two coats of Tamiya paints overlayed in a short time The painted will ripple off whatever causes that even if it was thinned with water. It will spoil your first attempt, if it has not really dried (and I Don't mean 24 h). A week or two like for some rattle cans will be required! Anyway, good job. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 Thanks Alex - the search for a perfect paint continues... where's Indian Jones when you need him? Thanks Tony "Cedipede"? That's got legs! Thanks Rob - we've yet to see if the tips stand up to closer inspection... I have my hopes and dreams. Thanks Benedikt - the Tamiya acrylics are weird; they cover really well when applied with the Tamiya brushes and seem to self-level, but try a second coat and you're in trouble. They also dry really quickly, especially on small brushes. The resin arrive today. Heck. Now I have to mold some pilots. Gulp. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBaron Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 Psychically willing you success on the resin-moulding process Ced. Tony 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 Thanks Tony The bits have arrived so no excuse now... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted January 14, 2017 Author Share Posted January 14, 2017 Well, I won't bore you with the processes but suffice it to say I'm not happy with the results of the mold making. The Oyumaru seems to go stiff too quickly for use in a Lego mold block and, when pressed around the part, seems to want to peel back. It's rubbery* See the gap above the head? No good. It's me, not the material I think, I need to practice (or change material). It also likes white tak (or vice versa: The silicon stuck to itself and tore when pulled apart: Untitled by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Perhaps I didn't leave it for long enough. I think, for such small, detailed parts like pilots, I need to use the rubber stuff? Or try harder? What do you think chaps? * Old Chinese restaurant joke, non-PC warning applies, has to be done... "Waiter, this chicken's rubbery" "Awh, fank you velly much!" 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandy Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 good god, man...7 days and page 5 already! Your build logs are as prolific as your builds! I'll just shuffle my way into the middle of this row here, spilling popcorn on everyone....'scuse me...coming through! BTW if you make 2 part moulds like those they will stick together. You need to coat the first half with a release agent (a thin coat of Vaseline works well) before making the second half, then it will come apart nicely! Ian 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 This something you need, when cast something in moulds or make the moulds Me as above. Maybe WD40 oil will do either 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 A release agent would be a good idea, but WD40 would probably be too oily. Although a harder mould material would hold the detail better, it`s getting the piece out again. Swings and roundabouts there. Someone will come up with the right answer on this site. Simon. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbudde Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 (edited) Oh and you can seperate or release things like this. But is that's the right answer? Edited January 14, 2017 by bbudde 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexN Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 I found with the Oyumaru (knock-off) that the following steps kept the heat in the stuff and kept it more pliable: 1. Use a pre-warmed (hot water out of the tap) china mug: the aluminium tray that you you used allows too much surface area in relation to volume and loses too much heat to the surroungdings -as does the excellent heat-conducting thin aluminium. You want a thick heat insulator - like a china mug ; this is especially important in cold weather. Keeping the aggregating bits under water with a bamboo kebab skewer helped me here, too; 2. Use boiling water; 3. Once having kneaded the bits of material into a blob, put said blob back into hot water. I counted out three minutes each for inital and re-warming stages (or use a watch); 4. Skip the box - but you already knew that; 5. Sould really be point 1: work out a strategy or sequence for producing the mould. I had to do that for the Eduard Spitfire seat centre section, a similar shape to your pilots. I had to resort to using FIMO heat-set modelling clay (great stuff) to make an intermediary support to avoid the type of voids that you encountered; 6. Do it in as warm an environment as you can (fnaar fnaar yip), see also above; 7. One commonly-used mould release agent is poly-vinyl alcohol (NOT poly-vinyl acetate or 'white glue!), which an be peeled or rinsed off afterwards. You should let it dry completely before moulding with it; 8. Practise (you know that one, too). It's a curious material, and on balance I think that RTV silicone moulds in little boxes (balsa tacked together with CA) with brass register pins and sleeves is more useful for a better and more repeatable result. The extra work involved (and a vavuum-cleaner run de-airing box for bubble removal) is counteracted by the saving of time in having repeat the Oyumaru moulding process over and over and over again. Others on here far more experienced and knowledgeable than I, e.g., @Sgt.Squarehead, will no doubt have much better solutions. I hope that that helps a bit (and that the '@' attracts Sarge's attention ). Cheers, Alex. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keefr22 Posted January 14, 2017 Share Posted January 14, 2017 I'd say the rubber would be your best bet Ced. You probably do need to make a two part mould, unless you want to sacrifice detail on the chaps backs by mounting them to something big enough to act as the pour channel & then to give the mould enough flex to be able to get them out in one piece. But their legs are likely to be very fragile & will probably break off. Two part moulds would make it much easier to remove them. Do bear in mind all the sage advice from the others about mould release agent. I have good results with liquid vaseline (for getting things out of moulds, stop all that fnaaring you lot!) as it's thin enough to brush on & make sure all the mould surface is covered. Good luck, I have no doubt you'll get there in the end! Keith 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spadgent Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Moving on really well Ced old boy. Nice tips. One good tip for me would be if I want to follow a thread press the bloody "follow" button I thought you hadn't updated in a while when I noticed my error. Glad you and Mrs B are feeling better. John. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaffajake Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 8 hours ago, bbudde said: Oh and you can seperate or release things like this. But is that's the right answer? That has made my day! 😂 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelglue Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 40 minutes ago, Jaffajake said: That has made my day! 😂 Mine as well! ...and I had a pretty good day! On 1/13/2017 at 7:16 AM, CedB said: Back to the tips (no, not now Claudia*, I'm busy). Fnarrrr! But seriously, nice job on those. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TonyTiger66 Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 (edited) I can't offer any help on the pilot casting (couch) techniques Ced. I'm simply watching and keeping my fingers crossed a technique will emerge that works. Following in from your Chinese restaurant saying, (non PC warning again), I was reminded of an old Chinese proverb, shared with me by a friend from Hong Kong many years ago: "Man with hole in pocket feel cocky all day" TT Edited January 15, 2017 by TonyTiger66 Spelling 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles87 Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Good luck with the casting Ced, way beyond my comfort zone/skill set. The prop tips look OK now, I use Xtracolour Trainer Yellow over a white base, probably not exactly the correct shade but it'll do for me, especially after being dirtied and chipped. Cheers John 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The wooksta V2.0 Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Ced, I've still got a HUUGE bag of pilots for you. I'll try to remember to get them in the post soonish. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 Welcome Ian! Five pages it may be but the poor Spitfire's still in bits. Thanks Benedikt for the mould release agent picture AND for the great Elephant video - it's encouraged me to address the "Elephant in the room" and realise that my moulding (molding?) skills are below par and I need MUCH more practice before I tackle sorting as tricky as a pilot. (Mold or mould? You know I worry about these things. This says that mold is to mould as color is to colour and references the Cambridge English Dictionary which says 'mould' can be used for both. I'm going to stop worrying about it. Soon) Thanks Spookytooth Thanks Alex for the detailed method - very helpful summary and bookmarked. I think, looking at the video again, that temperature was a major problem - at one point the stuff was sticky and clumped together but later it was too hard (is that a problem? Fnaar!) Thanks Keith - I think you're right. I realised that I need to think more about the gates and mounting the pilots (steady boys) to make sure the resin goes in AND I can get the things out again. The PJ ones are gated at the feet so that seems to be the way. Hi Johnny - follow away, do; you haven't missed much Spitfire! Thanks Jaffajake Thanks Jeffers - they were OK, just OK, but not useable (assuming you meant the molds) Thanks Tony - I'm not feeling cocky ( ) but I am feeling better so time to get my ducks in line and get on with your Spitfire! Thanks John - "way beyond my comfort zone/skill set" sums it up for me too. Time to put aside mouldy things and get on with it! Wooksta you are my saviour (and Beard too who's sent me some more). PM sent, thanks! Moulding aside for the time being then (although I'll put rubber, release agent and plasticine on the shopping list) More Spitfire, hopefully, later! Thanks chaps 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CedB Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 Internals detailed and ready for assembly (trying out the new camera again) DSCN0071 by Ced Bufton, on Flickr Stop taking close ups! Trying out brass tubes thanks to Miggers detail shots. 13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spookytooth Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Don`t stop taking close ups Ced. It`s a great way of spotting any little faults before going on. That is the beauty of the digital camera and computer. All coming along quite well. Simon. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now