Jump to content

Need tips on installing antennas and wires


Spitfires Forever

Recommended Posts

Hello

I would like to add some antennas/wires to my models. I try to detail out my cockpits, use PE parts, and buy resin seats, but there is something missing, and I think that it is antennas. I build 1/48 WW2 aircraft so would like some tips on what type of scale appropriate filament to use and how to best attach the filament/antennae. I believe that this would that extra little something that will make my aircraft more realistic.

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A lot of people swear by E Z line (I think it's called) which is basically elasticated thread for antenna cables and wires. I like to use hair - it's fine and free! Just gets a paint over. 

For Morane antenna I use a very fine copper wire piece on the antenna mast, just superglue on. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used EZ line. Benefit is if you catch it later by mistake it bends and does not snap. Downside for me is that it seemed to curl up when I dipped the free end in CA glue?  I tend to use invisible mending thread, which I first clamp with a haemostat and then colour with an indelible sharpie marker ( its translucent on the reel).  Fitting depends upon the model. Some aircraft have wire leaders on the tail, and the tiny turnbuckles produced by "Bobs Buckles" look good for these. Drill a hole in the tail and glue in the turnbuckle, Loop through the thread and add a tiny dab of CA.  Then I add a tiny drop of CA to the aerial mast and stretch the thread over it, and secure with CA accelerator from a brush ( usually held in my teeth! as I'm already using both hands!).  Other times you can drill holes in both the tail and the mast,  Hardest is when the aerial seems to appear part way down the mast and the mast itself is too thin to drill. I have sometimes cut a very thin slot with a knife blade and attached the thread into that. Needs some careful brush painting to tidy up for that method.  Sometimes you can make it easier by replacing the mast with brass or alloy rod etc. Each model is a bit of a thought process in " how can I?". Always worth planning in advance and not leaving it to the very end of your build.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I still prefer the old school stretched sprue. The materials are free, the thickness can be adjusted to whatever you need, it’s easy to glue, and it’s easy to cut. Once you have a selection of different coloured sprue you don’t’ even need to paint it.

026.jpg

 

I just googled EZ Line to see how much it cost. I’m not tight when it comes to modelling consumables, but that’s taking the wee wee. I’ll accept that you get an evenness of thickness (ideal for large projects, biplanes etc.), but that’s a fair amount of wedge to fork out.

 

Mart

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I started with fine thread and light test fishing line, but they always seemed "off". I then tried EZ Line but it was too big for my scale (1/72) and appeared square in cross section. I've since switched to Uschi line, which is in three different sizes. I use the smallest for aerials. 

 

Some more thoughts on it here.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found some line at the local craft shop when visiting there with my wife. It's like fishing line, only thinner and comes in a number of colours (I use black). It was in with the cotton reels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it is best to use some kind of elasticated line. It always looks tight.

A lot depends on the scale you are model making in.

 

For 1/72 I use Gold Zack Knitting Elastic.

 

For 1/48 I use Crysta Line. At this scale the differences in the thickness of rigging and antennae are important.

Crysta line is a nylon eleastic type line used by necklace makers. It comes in all the increments from 0.4 up to 1.00mm.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Elastic-Clear-Thread-0-5mm-Thick-approx-10m-Roll-for-Beading-Jewellery-Crafts-/162130025508?hash=item25bfb3dc24:g:ZBoAAOSwvg9Xf3vX

if you decide to buy some. Put into the Ebay browse Crysta Line Necklace Thread..

 

I fix with C/A  glue. Best I have found is to prime the model end with an accelerator. I have a pen type which has a

felt tip "Powerdrop"by Cyberbond UK Ltd. Works well with a spot of C/A  (rapid) on the thread . Just stretching the

thread just enough only to give tension. I usually bore a hole the thread size to slot in the thread which makes the

whole procedure much easier.

 

Laurie

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

+1 for the invisible mending thread, which is nothing more than thin monofilament. The roll I have (got it at a fabric/sewing store) is smoke colored, which makes it easier to see. As someone pointed out above, it can also be colored. I generally use Alclad Steel applied with a microbrush. I simulate springs/insulators with small lengths of polyamide tubing (available through Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Dindustrial&field-keywords=polyamide+tube&rh=n%3A16310091%2Ck%3Apolyamide+tube ).

Attachment methods vary -- small diameter pilot holes, direct CA bonds with masts, etc. The stuff is strong and can be heat-shrunk with care. You can attach lead wires to the main antenna with a dab of CA on the ends.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like some viable options. I have tried stretched sprue but have had mixed results. I will try the filliments and see how that works out. I am going to try some "easy" applications first, then try some biplane rigging, probably my 1/48 walrus. The insulators and tying off the line will probably be the biggest challenge, but with some practice I might be able to pull this off. I will give each of the suggestions a try and find out what works best. Thanks guys for the quick reply. I knew I came to the right place!

Cheers

Edited by Spitfire addict
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use Infini Model's lycra line. 2 colours and 4 thicknesses. I begin by applying a spot of CA at the first attachment point, then holding the free end of the line to the glue spot with pointy tweezers for a few seconds. Next, I apply a spot of glue to the second attachmeng point, and either drape or gently stretch the rigging line to it with the tweezers. I then trim each end with a scalpel.

 

I hated thread as it attracted dust. I found stretched sprue too fragile.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use to use hair, but it's effected be humidity so sometimes it can end up being slack. I now also use black/smoke monofilament polyester thread (invisible thread).

 

if you haven't got any I would get some 0.2mm drills for the places where you need to attach the thread to fins etc.

 

I haven't tried it but Uschi does 3 sizes of rigging thread.

https://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/rigging/

Edited by Tbolt
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...