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Pocher Ducati


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13 minutes ago, Codger said:

A very professional presentation. The gaskets are perfect and great solutions for other 1/8 scale work.

The finish has that nice warmed-aluminum look of a ridden bike.

Good stuff Ron!

 

Morning Mr C....yes...I have to say I am pleased with the gaskets....it's nice when an idea bears fruit and...as you say....will work with 1/8 ( and I believe 1/12 ) also...bonus.

As for the 'weathering'....as the engine progresses....I will concentrate the effects in the areas that are exposed/worn/heated etc. alongside natural element penetration....as suggested by a very good friend ;)

 

One area I will spend extra time and effort on is the exhaust....not just with details....but some well burned in heat effects.

 

Ron

 

 

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This is a great start. I like what you are doing weathering wise. Good solution for the gaskets. I will be following you. If a greatly reduced kit comes available, I will make sure I get it.

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1 minute ago, Pouln said:

This is a great start. I like what you are doing weathering wise. Good solution for the gaskets. I will be following you. If a greatly reduced kit comes available, I will make sure I get it.

 

Many thanks for comment Poul.....great that you are looking in :)

Weathering will develop more as the build progresses.....nothing heavy....just well used.

I think the gaskets have been well received...I am glad I brought them into the build.

 

Regards

 

Ron

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  • 2 weeks later...

Right....time for an update.

I have spent a lot of time making a few of the missing cables and connectors....as well as adding extra detail to some of the kit parts.

Along with these extra details...I have continued to replace the kit 'screws' with the 'Scale Hardware' bolts/fixings.

First of the kit parts to receive some extra detail was the oil cooler. I replaced the moulded bolts with some metal ones I had in stock, then I made the 'Banjo' connector using a 4mm bead spacer, which is part of the SH set, and 15amp fuse wire for the hose connector point.

Once I had these made up it was time to add the 'finning' to the sides. Paul Koo used metal foil tape, which he scored with the back of a scalpel blade. I tried this, but it didn't work for me! (as in the pic with the fixings)

Instead I used three layers of foil tape, which I cut into thin strips, and applied each one individually.

Next up was the 'Oil Pressure Switch' cable, and again I used a 4mm bead spacer for the Banjo, with 15amp fuse wire for the pipe connector,and 2 sizes of slide fit Ali tube.

With these done, I turned my attention to the missing 'Exhaust Sensors'. For the body I used a 'Grease Nipple' I had in my bits store. I then added a piece of Ali tube for the neck, into which I inserted the wires, 2 white, 1 grey and 1 black, as per the factory refs I had. CA was used to fix the wires into the Ali tube, then I sleeved them with heat shrink.

 

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Ron

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After the previous update, this is where the main block stands.

I have added a few components, such as the starter motor and inlet gaskets, along with a few cover plates, using the Scale Hardware bolts wherever possible.

I have weathered it in, so that it looks more cohesive, and from here on in, any added pieces will be pre-weathered before they are added.

I have purposely left off the 'sump', so that I can retain a flat surface that the engine can rest on to avoid damage to the whole piece.

 

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Hope you like the progress so far.

 

Ron

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Indistinguishable from a prototype engine on a bench in the shop, ready for tear-down. You have an amazing gift for the depiction of soil and engine lubricant sweat in crevasses and between casting ribs. It doesn't get more real.

 

Further, you are a master at the art of forced perspective using light and shadow, all with pigments.

 

Forgot to say that your meticulous methods for details like fins and fittings is approaching the sub-atomic level. Not too shabby...:o:blink:

 

I always look ahead to the presentation of the 'whole' when doing details and subassemblies. The 'whole' when complete will obviously be as overpowering as standing next to the real thing.

RESPECT...

C

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1 hour ago, Mpfiend said:

Really nice Ron,

the cables and weathering you have added give the engine a very realistic look 

 

regards

Keith. 

 

Many thanks Keith....it pleases me that the weathering hasn't put people off....it's just my personal 'style' and taste.

 

ATB

 

Ron

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45 minutes ago, Codger said:

Indistinguishable from a prototype engine on a bench in the shop, ready for tear-down. You have an amazing gift for the depiction of soil and engine lubricant sweat in crevasses and between casting ribs. It doesn't get more real.

 

Further, you are a master at the art of forced perspective using light and shadow, all with pigments.

 

Forgot to say that your meticulous methods for details like fins and fittings is approaching the sub-atomic level. Not too shabby...:o:blink:

 

I always look ahead to the presentation of the 'whole' when doing details and subassemblies. The 'whole' when complete will obviously be as overpowering as standing next to the real thing.

RESPECT...

C

 

Well Mr C....that's praise indeed...especially coming from someone I hold in such high regard.

I know my way is not to everyones taste....but I personally enjoy the challenge of 'fooling' the eye...so to speak.

And if you add in the work needed to put in the missing bits....and the effort of getting it all to fit...then you have a real battle on your hands!

I must admit that I get a real kick out of fabricating details....as time consuming as it is....but the reward is in peoples reaction to the piece/whole.

 

Ron

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31 minutes ago, larchiefeng said:

You took the words out of my mouth Codger. It has just the right amount of weathering to look like the real thing sitting on a workbench in a shop somewhere.

 

Hi mate....and many thanks for your comment....means a great deal to me.

 

Regards

 

Ron

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Really cool stuff Ron.  I like the scratch bits too.  The tape for the finning effect is really convincing.  You would think it's made of stacked metal plates!  The weathering/oiled look is very skillfully executed. That last pic looks like the real thing!

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18 hours ago, rjfk2002 said:

Really cool stuff Ron.  I like the scratch bits too.  The tape for the finning effect is really convincing.  You would think it's made of stacked metal plates!  The weathering/oiled look is very skillfully executed. That last pic looks like the real thing!

 

Many thanks for kind words mate....means a lot...glad you like the extra detail bits and weathering....last pic is a good indicator for me of how it's going.

 

Cheers

 

Ron

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A thought that I found helpful; take plenty of pix as you go. Not necessarily for publication here but as an 'extra set of eyes' which is what the camera really is, for your own use. I have found many things wrong or jarring by close-up pix, not seen when I actually made the parts.

 

Of course, that makes you make things over and over...:blink::suicide:

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14 hours ago, Codger said:

A thought that I found helpful; take plenty of pix as you go. Not necessarily for publication here but as an 'extra set of eyes' which is what the camera really is, for your own use. I have found many things wrong or jarring by close-up pix, not seen when I actually made the parts.

 

Of course, that makes you make things over and over...:blink::suicide:

 

It is a routine I have come to regret on occasion....but worth it in the long run Mr C.

 

Ron

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Just a quick update on the build.

Took a break from the main engine block to do some work on two of the next main assemblies, the radiators and exhaust.

I wanted to get the exhaust to a suitable stage to be able to test fit it to the main block. My primary reason for doing this, is that many builders have complained about the fit of the exhaust parts, both with themselves, and later, when trying to fit it to the engine! Paul Koo points out several issues with the fit of the parts on his DVD, and offers a lot of insight into how to go about rectifying the problems. Following his advice, I assembled the exhaust parts and made sure all the joins were clean and gap free.

I did a couple of extra things besides those Paul recommends. First, once all the joins and screw holes were filled and sanded out flush, I added some foil tape to the pipe joins. I did this because the moulding is very shallow on the bands, and this adds some much needed depth to these areas. Secondly, the brace between the mufflers in the kit is just a piece of plastic into which two of the kit screws go. My main concern was the longevity of these screws and plastic, knowing that I would have to disassemble them several times. My answer was to use some slide fit tubes to get the necessary centre, that could then be threaded to take metal bolts. I used 2.5 x 8mm Allen head bolts, both for strength and repeated doing and undoing them.

I will clean up the join lines on the mufflers once I am happy with the fit of all parts to each other and the main engine block.

Whilst I was doing all this prep work, it seemed like a good time to tackle the screw holes in the main radiator. I again followed Paul's tips on filling these holes with pieces of the parts sprue.

Hardest part was fitting some thin strips of 0.5mm plastic card, to replace the missing braces. Once the glue sets, I will blend them in.

 

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Hope you like it so far.....

 

Ron

Edited by silver911
mistakes
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The slide tubes area really good idea. Were the tubes designed to nest like that or you just have the assorted diameter tubes and fitted yourself? I am going to file this idea away for future builds. 

 

Will you keep the copper pier color on the exhausts? I like the color pocher used for the part but not all screws holes!  Great save job there Ron

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36 minutes ago, rjfk2002 said:

The slide tubes area really good idea. Were the tubes designed to nest like that or you just have the assorted diameter tubes and fitted yourself? I am going to file this idea away for future builds. 

 

Will you keep the copper pier color on the exhausts? I like the color pocher used for the part but not all screws holes!  Great save job there Ron

 

Hi mate and thanks for comment :)

 

I tend to keep 9 sizes of tube in stock, all of which are a slide fit to the next larger size. This allows me to do a lot more with fixings that require a fitting that reduces in size, which would otherwise require a lathe, as well as what you see.

 

Colour will be well used/heated stainless for the main pipes. With a custom pair of mufflers, in the "Akrapovic" style/design, which is the same basic shape as the kit ones, but more 'racy' lol

 

Well worth the extra effort to get rid of the screw holes.

 

ATB

 

Ron

Edited by silver911
missed out some wording
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