Vitaliy Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 You have a very pleasant atmosphere at Britmodeller 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 Nah - most of them are horrid. Just me that's nice... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 Good evening to everybody! Question to experts please help translate BS into FS BS381C-629 by FS- BS381C-637 by FS- BS381C-638 by FS- Many thanks !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stever219 Posted July 24, 2017 Share Posted July 24, 2017 If you're doing an RAF jet the paints used will be to British Standards and an accurate match to anything in FS (or RAL for that matter) will be a lucky coincidence: if you're doing an American jet the obverse will apply. That said I was fortunate, in my former day job, to meet a man who supplies paints to the automotive trade and who deals extensively with colours matched to BS381C. He told me that there is a 10% tolerance on BS381C (so whither now is the "what colour is Olive Drab/Mixed Grey/whatever other colour" discussion?). A number of companies produce paints matched to BS381C, Xtracolour/Xtracrylix and Sovereign Models' Colourcoats for example, but I appreciate that you may not be able to obtain these where you live. Perhaps someone on this site might be able to point ou in the direction of othe suppliers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted July 24, 2017 Author Share Posted July 24, 2017 Here I found ! Perhaps someone else will help ... http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_uk.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex-FAAWAFU Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 That IPMS Stockholm colour chart is pretty much the best conversion reference out there - that I have found, anyway. @stever219 is dead right, though; the degree of tolerance allowed in the real thing makes a mockery of sone people's obsession with getting exactly "the right colour"... and that's before you start factoring in scale effect, fading paint as the (real) finish ages, ambient light, the screen / print that reproduces your reference photos, etc. In the end you just have to pick something that looks right to you. Often the mix is counter-intuitive, too; the home-mixed RAF Blue Grey for my Sea King build only really came together when I added a little green to the mix, even though I didn't (& still don't) think that RAF BG "looks" green in the slightest. If you have an iPhone, I thoroughly recommend iModelKit, too. It has lots of good features, but the paint mixing part of the app is superb; it was iModelKit that prompted the green addition to my RAF BG; I'd never have thought of it on my own. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troy Smith Posted July 25, 2017 Share Posted July 25, 2017 19 hours ago, Vitaliy said: Good evening to everybody! Question to experts please help translate BS into FS BS381C-629 by FS- BS381C-637 by FS- BS381C-638 by FS- Many thanks !!! you maybe better off saying what model paint you can get, and asking for matches for those, as there are people here who be able to tell you those BS is British standard, FS595 is US paint standard, while FS595 is commonly referred to for paint, it is not a comprehensive colour guide, so as has been said, BS to FS595 will an approximation. this place has a converter though, for BS381C-629, Dark Camouflage Grey http://www.e-paint.co.uk/Colour_alternatives.asp?filter2=Federal+Standard+595&cRange=BS+381C&cRef=BS381+629 note the star rating, it rates FS 36173 as being "Distinguishable to the practiced eye" BS381C-637 Medium Sea Grey http://www.e-paint.co.uk/Colour_alternatives.asp?filter2=Federal+Standard+595&cRange=BS+381C&cRef=BS381+637 BS381C-638 Dark Sea Grey http://www.e-paint.co.uk/Colour_alternatives.asp?filter2=Federal+Standard+595&cRange=BS+381C&cRef=BS381+638 the linked place is a specialist paint manufacturer. but the colour by the names listed, not the BS code are available in many model paint ranges 33 minutes ago, Ex-FAAWAFU said: That IPMS Stockholm colour chart is pretty much the best conversion reference out there - that I have found, anyway. @stever219 is dead right, though; the degree of tolerance allowed in the real thing makes a mockery of sone people's obsession with getting exactly "the right colour"... and that's before you start factoring in scale effect, fading paint as the (real) finish ages, ambient light, the screen / print that reproduces your reference photos, etc. In the end you just have to pick something that looks right to you. Often the mix is counter-intuitive, too; the home-mixed RAF Blue Grey for my Sea King build only really came together when I added a little green to the mix, even though I didn't (& still don't) think that RAF BG "looks" green in the slightest. If you have an iPhone, I thoroughly recommend iModelKit, too. It has lots of good features, but the paint mixing part of the app is superb; it was iModelKit that prompted the green addition to my RAF BG; I'd never have thought of it on my own. The IPMS list is old, while it's useful, it can have mistakes, being approximate matches. the 'if it look OK' is fine, but there are paint standards to start with, and knowing what those are is useful, as well is what pigments are in the real paint and how it weathers. there is also how good a person colour perception is, as opposed to colourimeters, which are not subjective. Getting it looking right on a model though is 'the art' of modelling as for adding green. model paints are often a complex mix of pigments, and these can have a surprising effect on mixes, so while RAF BG may well not appear green, that may what was required to shift the final colour. A brief aside, I once looked at the pigment ratios of commercial paint, I was after very pure blue-purple for a shop front, the mix for 'Oxford blue' on the paint mix machine was something like 50 parts blue, 30 parts black, 3 parts red and 1 part yellow. I ended up with a paint that I mixed that was like 80 parts of the blue in the blue paint base, and while a lovely colour, it had very poor covering qualities (took about 4 coats to get a solid colour), which I think is why in many the cases the pigment mix is more complex than may thought. HTH 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted July 25, 2017 Author Share Posted July 25, 2017 Thanks Troy , e-paint.co.uk cool site ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted July 29, 2017 Author Share Posted July 29, 2017 I defeated LERX 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted July 30, 2017 Author Share Posted July 30, 2017 I did some work in the cold nozzle zone... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted July 31, 2017 Author Share Posted July 31, 2017 Redone marked with red some elements. Now I'm happy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted August 1, 2017 Author Share Posted August 1, 2017 I did some work in dispenser area 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 Detail set arrived 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xffw45343tg Posted August 13, 2017 Share Posted August 13, 2017 Ooh. That's rather nice. Is it all Eduard or is there more than one supplier of all those goodies? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted August 13, 2017 Author Share Posted August 13, 2017 Hi bro Yes , this one set https://www.eduard.com/store/ru/eduard/harrier-gr-mk-7-9-1-48.html?listtype=search&searchparam=Harrier Still waiting for it https://www.eduard.com/store/ru/eduard/Бомба-gbu-12-1-48.html?listtype=search&searchparam=GBU 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted August 14, 2017 Author Share Posted August 14, 2017 Add some work at BOL rail 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted August 19, 2017 Author Share Posted August 19, 2017 Did the BOL back and the next pair of pylons... 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Calum Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Wow, insane amount of detail there. Great scratchbuilding. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Massimo Posted August 20, 2017 Share Posted August 20, 2017 Ican only join the party of the WOW!!! You've don an extremely good job of scratch and I look forward to seing the first colours of this fantastic Harrier!!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted August 20, 2017 Author Share Posted August 20, 2017 (edited) Thank*s man*s Calum and Massimo and ALL ! , take and ... Edited August 22, 2017 by Vitaliy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark4700 Posted August 22, 2017 Share Posted August 22, 2017 Once again your attention to detail is mind blowing. Exceptional build. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matteo44 Posted August 23, 2017 Share Posted August 23, 2017 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 Thanks Mark and Matteo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted August 23, 2017 Author Share Posted August 23, 2017 Homemade decal ... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vitaliy Posted August 26, 2017 Author Share Posted August 26, 2017 My friend , watch repairman helped me with screws There a few screws for pylons ... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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