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Well it all don't look that bad after seeing it again this morning. 

 

Was late last night when I removed all the masks. 

 

Despite masking up to the current tape and then removing the old tape there are still some slivers of white between the red and blue. 

Will brush these in...

 

One thing I have noticed is I need to bring the gunship grey curve forward. Only the smallest triangle of the neutral grey should be visible. 

 

Other points to note are the orange winders and drab for the bomb rear bits. All mixed from the mission basic colours. 

 

So all these points will be rectified  along with masking off for the wheel wells too tonight...

 

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Thanks for looking. 

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Looks great to me, and seems to match the reference photos(*) very well. There is a side view of the port side cockpit area there that may be helpful for scaling the white and red areas. Looking forward to seeing it finished.

 

(*): http://www.caracalmodels.com/references/cd48009/

 

Edited by CaracalModels
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Wow those are good pics. Thanks very much. 

 

Happy that I have it close enough :) 

The nose colours all convene on the canopy opening rescue panel, 

which isnt present on this kit...

 

Noticed from the pics too that I need to do one half of the belly tank in red, only seen it from the white side so thought it was all white. It's colours are split vertical rather than horizontal like the wing tanks... 

 

Thanks again 👍🏿

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8 hours ago, trickyrich said:

The finish that you get with that paint is amazing.

 

Thanks Rich. 

 

Sadly I can't take all the credit and claim to be some sort of ninja with it... 

 

Its really foolproof as mentioned a few posts back. 

 

It reminds me alot of stynylrez, in the way that you can be as heavy handed as you like, it may look lumpy at first and floods all the details, but then when it dries it shrinks back nice and tight. 

Being water type based and as its cold at the minute in the garage where I paint I use the hairdrier (low setting) to speed up all my paintwork. Just like with stynylrez you can see the paint dry and the little puddles evaporate, details reappear and then you are left with the lovely smooth finish 👍🏿

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Lonestar shiny bits.

 

As mission models paint dont cover metals yet, I am using ak exteme. For the brushing of metal areas eg all the silver bits on UC struts etc I will use AK/meng acrylics. 

 

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Plane is Going to get a gloss coat today after sticking all the fins on etc ready for decals 👍🏿
 

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Decals going on. 

 

Despite matching to the blue when on the sheet, they have gone lighter on the grey. Nevermind. Couple other niggles with this build was never going to be perfect anyways. 

Decals settled down very well though. 

 

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Need to cut out a star for belly tank as need another large one. Sheet 4 large ones for wing tanks then has smaller ones for baggage pods. Could do with 5 of the large tank stars.

And then one for the fod cover I made. Will need to brush paint a 255 on cover too.

 

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What the kit lacks and I didn't realise till it was too late as mentioned earlier is the little square canopy rescue panel. This is the point where all the colours convene on the side of the nose. If they are off then the rescue data is off. Which then pushes the stars out of kilter. Everything needs to fall into place. Cause the point of the star fits between the rescue arrow and the grey bump. This side (starboard - no pun intended) is best, other not so good. Guess which side will feature the most in photos!

 

Alot to learn If i build this again or do it in 48th. 

 

As I said Turned out ok but could be alot better. 

 

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Here's something I've had a problem with past couple of builds...

 

Almost junked (under a swift heel) my vf32 swordsmen F14 because of it. 

 

So this is what AK interactive gauzy intermediate is doing - crazing on decals when its dry. 

This makes for a nightmare when applying a panel wash, especially on a light gull grey tomcat. 

 

I thought at first with the above mentioned builds is was because I was flashing it off with a hairdrier. As in it was cracking and shrinking back because it was drying too fast. 

This appears not to be the case because the picture below of my f-16 spine was left to dry overnight naturally.

Still cracked.  

 

Its almost like it cant grip to the smooth decals and 'slips' off of them? Because the surrounding paint is covered fine...

I didn't flood them either, misted the first coats on to give it something to grip. 

 

This might not be an issue with matt or satin decals but can't be bothered to test. Gonna bin the bottle I think. 

 

Main thing is to make people aware of this potential problem... 

 

Never had this problem with aquagloss. Which I think I will revert back to. 

 

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Massive catch up for the KF-16C. 

Bought last Saturday a week and a half agonand now almost ready for a panel wash...

 

Intake - outer shell - two halves and an upper, separate lip. Trunk in two halves. No pin marks in bay - bonus!

 

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Spot priming with stynylrez. 

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Intake clicks on and held in place with pva. White trunking and bay can be added later. Less masking!

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Attack sqn resin zorst fits great (revell/kenetic) Note plane wearing full primer now. 

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Light ghost grey going on

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Freehand camo done. Contrast increased. 

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Tail respray for later style numbers added. (Copied box top photo) 

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White trunking can now be added (popped intake piece off) @Giorgio N

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Perfect! 

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Nose gear leg was tacked in place when the white trunking was sprayed 

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Now glued in place. Only had to mask off main bay for white. 

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Thanks for looking!

Edited by Tony Oliver
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A few overall shots. 

 

All separate numbers are provided for serials to make any plane - real or fictional. I chose 83 cause its my favourite number.

 

The stencils are also all on but are super low contrast and look great. 

 

Lastly the zorst section was painted in ak xtreme titanium. Then their metallic purple misted where it comes out of the grey area. Then the last ring masked off and sprayed lightly with the xtreme metallic blue.  The main nozzle (not shown) was done in ak xtreme jet exhaust (basically a metal black) and then had some purple and blue misted over it too. 

 

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Catch you tomorrow. 

 

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Decals sealed. Aquagloss this time :whistle:

 

However in my haste it appears there was still some decal glue residue I hadn't cleaned off. And a couple have silvered on the weapons load & tanks :wall:

 

Trying to get it done and finished along with the lonestar (about 80%) and the haveglass (95%) by this weekend (2nd April) as away with work next week, plus it's the sword and lance show on the Saturday 8th and the gallery for this STGB closes on the Sunday the 9th... 

 

Get on with it! (Monty Python Stylee)

 

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Gosh there is no hanging about with you!!! I'm almost loosing track of your builds.....the gallery is the only way to keep track!

 

It's a shame how those decals went, these clear coats can be a bit funny especially when you mix paint brands, as I've found out. Hopefully it's not going to cause you too many issues!

 

I call the Korean colour scheme "Smog" as it really does match the atmosphere up here!!! She does look nice!! 

 

 

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1 hour ago, trickyrich said:

 

It's a shame how those decals went, these clear coats can be a bit funny especially when you mix paint brands, as I've found out. Hopefully it's not going to cause you too many issues!

 

Ref Lonestar and the gauzy?

 

I don't think its a paint compatibility because I have had it happen on a few builds now with different decals and paint brands?

 

It seems (to me anyway) the gauzy is the problem?

 

Started a separate thread about this to see if anyone else has had similar as not everyone is going to read this. 

 

 

No bites yet...

 

Must be me then :whistle:

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