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Hot metal effects - Super Sabre


Simon Cornes

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Hu Guys,

I'm after a bit of advice/opinion on how to tackle this. I have 1/32nd Trumpeter F-100 to paint. Most of it is in straight aluminium as the aircraft was sprayed with 'aluminised lacquer' to protect the natural metal. But the rear fuselage, clad in Titanium, was left bare because it got a bit warm. Now I am an Alclad fan. What that means is that I have 7 or 8 assorted bottles and I used it for the first time on a 1/48th Mirage a year or so back and it was no where near as frightening as I had thought! So I am wondering how best to proceed. I have just blasted on a coat of Halfords grey plastic primer - I may well use the white primer for the rest of the airframe. I'm thinking of getting hold of a bottle of Alclad Magnesium (111) because the Titanium colour is in the high shine range (118) and I think it just wouldn't work. Logically you should go for lighter colours first? 

I'm just looking at an earlier thread where the modeller was oppenheimer and he used a polished aluminium base coat (ALC-105) then hot metal blue (ALC413), then hot metal violet (ALC417) then transparent yellow (ALC402). To be honest, it looks very good but maybe too yellow in my eyes so maybe just the blue and violet. I am not looking for a super shiny finish hence going for grey primer rather than gloss black so maybe I could use pale burnt metal (104) instead of polished aluminium? I know there is no single answer but I would be very interested in your opinions!

Many thanks

 

Simon

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I would go pale burnt metal base as that has a yellowish/gold tone to start with, then build up the blue and violet 'burnt' tones over the top to kill it off a bit but have a hint showing through here and there...

That may get the effect what you are after from reading your dislike of something thats too yellow? 

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Well, I've started with a base coat - on top of the Halfords Grey - of AlClad White Aluminium 106 on the basis that I'll probably use the standard Aluminium for the rest of the airframe and so I want a bit of contrast to start with. All dressed in best Darth Vader mask and one blue glove, Michael Jackson stylee I can manage about 10 minutes of spraying before a blast of fresh air is required - and grief its chilly!

I have come to the conclusion that I will have to reduce the paint flow rate to a mere trickle in order to get enough control because, when you see the work done by obvious experts, the colour changes are so subtle that you just can't go blasting it on, having said that the guys on LSP have published some images of F-100's where the 'hot blue' is virtually an electric shade, unbelievably bright with high contrast with the ares near to the rivet lines. Also interesting to see that there are parts which are consistently heat stained to simian degrees on different airframes.

 

Thanks for the suggestion about using touches of enamel CT, well worth considering. My big concern was "Where the h++l is the cellulose thinners?" After putting on the paint! Thankfully I found it and the brush is now clean again but I'm glad I've made a start. 

 

Very wise words James but I'm hoping that any cock ups can be sprayed over (lightly) and that I can learn as I go along. Of course it may all go very pear shaped but I'm lined up to buy 4 or 5 bottles of Alclads finest tomorrow so I may be able to experiment further 'this year' or it may have to wait until the next!

Thanks Guys

 

Simon

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Well I bought the above hot metal colours and also some transparent red and a bottle of transparent medium. To be honest I had no idea what the transparent medium was for but I've just read the bottle label (good idea, huh! ) and it is just for diluting the transparent red but does anyone have any experience of using the stuff?

Simon

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Thanks Greg, very inspirational build so thanks for the link but I'm wondering what mix of red, blue and green produced that sort of burnt golden brown colour - which looks spot on! I am also looking at photos of a French Hun where some of the staining is basically electric blue and almost pure silver - must have got incredibly hot! Also just ordered a copy of 'Bury Us Upside Down' on the strength of that thread!!

Cheers

 

Simon

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There is an alternative as demonstrated by Alan P. Take some aluminium foil/chocolate wrapper and boil it with some eggshells for about 10 minutes. It comes out like burnt metal. Cut into strips/shapes and apply. Not tried it yet, but looks impressive.

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5 hours ago, bentwaters81tfw said:

There is an alternative as demonstrated by Alan P. Take some aluminium foil/chocolate wrapper and boil it with some eggshells for about 10 minutes. It comes out like burnt metal. Cut into strips/shapes and apply. Not tried it yet, but looks impressive.

 

Yes, I've sen this in my recent searches for information. It struck me that I need to get hold of some Baremetal adhesive as I assume you can't use the likes of Gator glue to attach it. Wonder of Paul at Little Cars stocks it? I will persist with the paint though and Greg's advise to layer up the Hot Metal Sepia that Alclad do - and that I have in stock, unopened - was very useful. The whole process is very experimental though - I am used to blasting on a  coat of Medium Sea Grey or whatever so all this subtlety is new to me!!

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