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Pocher aventador roadster


Adamb691

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Nice looking car and I like the blue on the roadster. On the LED's, Danny G built his Aventador and wired it up with LED's. He was adding his LED's at the same time I was adding them to my Pocher Mercedes. As I recall he was running into a bit of a space problem with the size of some of his LED's. I kept looking for smaller LED's and I used SMD LED's which are quite small and come in a variety of sizes. You can get them so small that you could light up the switches on the console. I'm planning on using some on my Pocher Testarossa rebuild as well. If you need any more info about them, I'm happy to help.

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Thanks cookie. Apart from the obligatory airfix spitfire as a kid this is my only build. Aiming for a quality job with what's in the box. No real after market additions, just paint and finishes. Oh and if the lights work that would be cool. Good fun that's for sure. 

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Nice work, Adam. I'm way behind you. I've built the engine, with some of Koo's mods, but all the spaghetti tubing left me cold since it would not be visible. I know most of the fun is in the building, not the viewing, but life is full of other things too. The plan of making 3D printed parts fell apart as well when the printer started leaking and has still not been fixed due to budgetary constraints. Or maybe my boss just wanted me to stop playing with it so much. The latter, I think.

 

Now I'm building the interior, and basically following your lead with matt black painting. It does need some nifty masking of the existing tan sections, and I just realized I need to do it on the doors as well. However, how did you achieve the silky satin aluminum finish on the steering wheel and door handles that match the center console? Did you use a rattle can of some mystery paint, or did you just brush it on? Is there a suitable silky satin aluminum available? Sorry, I mean aluminium. Been here too long.

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Adam do you need any specific tools for the assembly of the Lambo kit or will the modelling tools we use for our normal modelling kits suffice?

Plus do you have any advice for me before my kit arrives??

Thanks

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Hi vandellyn. No mystery paints. The bits you mention were all paint brush jobs for me with some masking or course. Here are the paints I used. A mix of spray and brush. I think the little tub is what I used for the wheel. It was hanging around from a cheap kit my son had and didn't finish so not sure what brand or colour it is. But it looks well on the car I think. Good luck with the interior. Really enjoyed that stage. 

IMG_0990.jpg

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Hi cookie. My tool list is not very fancy, usual model building stuff i suspect. A list of what I used is:

craft knife

fine sandpaper

snips

good set of magnetic screwdrivers

small clamp to hold bits when painting/sticking

very fine brushes

hot glue gun

soldering iron

dremmel 

i was going to get a tap set but I have found careful tapping with a screw before assemble has worked well. 

 

As as far as advice goes I have read the work of others on here, people like roymattblack, codger, Danny g. Learnt a lot from their detailed build descriptions. One bit I did find out the hard way was lay out all parts first. I had built up elements with plastic parts only to find that there is a metal part to use instead or their is a roadster specific but I should be using. I guess making mistakes and correcting is all part of the fun tho. 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks Adam. I think I'll have to check their posts out. 

Dont suppose you know where they are in this forum? 

Edited by cookiezoom
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Cookie, just type in Pocher in the search bar above and it should bring up pretty much all of the Pocher builds. Be prepared for a lot of reading though. Codgers Rolls runs almost 50 pages, my Mercedes build ran about 30+ pages. Danny G's is a little bit shorter but, Roy's Lamborghini build runs around 30 pages or more too. Keith is building his Mercedes Cabriolet, and the two Bugattis currently going by Crazy Crank and Propeller. Rich is building the big Pocher Volvo truck and a Bugatti, and I have a rebuild of a Ferrari Testarossa going off and on so, there's lots of builds going Codger has been on the Rolls for over three years and my Mercedes was about two and a half years so, Pochers can take a while if you really want to spend the time. The older Pocher classic kits take longer because there's usually more issues and a lot more painting and details to deal with. The newer kits that have the pre painted bodies still take time but you don't have to worry about spending weeks on getting the body to fit and painting it. Hope this helps.

Edited by larchiefeng
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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a quandary to deal with. The main casting, for the accommodation module, is warped. Part no KR001=01. I took it out of the polystyrene packaging to start assembling the interior, put it down on a table and noticed that it wobbled. A closer look shows that both the cross beams for supporting the windscreen are askew, and the upper one has an irregular wave to it. Essentially the left side front is about 1/16" to 1//8" higher than the right, resulting in the warp of the cross beams. I've tried brute force to no avail - it is a very stiff structure -so either I get Pocher to replace it, or live with the imperfection and know for evermore that my model is warped. I'll start with Pocher and see what happens.

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I hope you manage to sort this out. 

I looked through my kit yesterday but haven't studied it in any detail. 

 

There was was a guy on here a couple of weeks back and he had a similar problem. Not sure if he got it sorted. Pocher/Hornby weren't very helpful. 

Hopefully someone wiser on this forum may have a solution. 👍🏻

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Given the price of this kit you'd think it would be spot on in all respects. I'd be going through all the parts as soon as it arrived and if anything wasn't perfect the kit would be going back to the retailer with a letter of complaint to Pocher. Once the complaints letters start stacking up Pocher may then take some action. I certainly wouldn't live with a sub-standard product.

 

Just my opinion.

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I agree mbdesignart, think I'll go through my Pocher box again today and look at the details of each part. Like you say for this kinda money, it should be flawless. And if there is a problem it should be rectified immediately. I also think perhaps there should be a warranty on Pocher products but hey who am I to think this?

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I emailed Pocher at [email protected] about my warped housing, and received a very nice reply within a day from them asking for pictures and proof of purchase, which I sent. They have now requested the part for me, and they will inform me of its dispatch.

 

So, while the change of ownership proceeds, Hornby is still providing support. I could not ask for better service.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm pleased to say that I received my replacement housing yesterday and it is in decent form. The shipping packaging was somewhat lacking, so the black shiny paint on the window frame suffered some abrasion, but nothing that a good polish will not eliminate. At least there are no warps. So March 23rd to April 12 is uh, 3 weeks? Not too bad considering it was sent from the UK by rowing boat. I have the engine and front suspension built, so I should see some real progress this weekend.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

So I finished building my blue Aventador, and it is very impressive. I've been waiting a few weeks before polishing it just to make sure nothing popped loose, or warped. Sure enough the double sided tape used to hold the windscreen down has given way, and the windscreen is poking up at a small angle from the frame. So I would like to glue it down this time, but which glue should I use? The windscreen looks like lexan, not clear polystyrene (although I'm not really sure - it is flexible), and the frame is a mix of poly and cast metal. I don't want to use any superglue derivative in case it leaves a white blemish, Any suggestions?

 

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If the warp is really bad, consider heating in hot water first to take some tension out.

 

Mark's solution may work but if the tension is very high, only epoxy will. I'd use a 30 minute cure on clean surfaces and tape it in place until cured. Apply very sparingly.

 

 

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